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STACK2 (1)

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We're gonna show you some exercises to get the puppies used to having their mouths examined, we're going to show you how you bring the puppy up onto the table and how you start that behavior. And then we're going to show you with the adult dogs how we teach the release, which is the next really important thing to teach. So let me get started. I want to show you guys a trick. So people are always asking about what kind of bait do you use, and the best bait to use is the bait that the animal likes the best. And the bait that the puppy or dog likes the best isn't necessarily the same thing everyday or in each context. So what I do when I start a session, whether it's at a show, a trial, or at home, with any dog is I do what I call a preference-- not what I call-- what is called a preference assessment. So I have here a piece of cheese and a piece of veal breast. So I'm gonna show her-- ah, yes. I'm gonna show her the two, and it looks like breast, veal breast. Can I ask you what does that mean? Oh, I thought you said to me, veal breast. So it looks to me like the puppy prefers the veal breast, but I am going to switch the two hands in case the puppy just has a preference for that hand. And I'm gonna show her the cheese, veal breast, cheese, veal breast, and then I'll show it-- oh, look, it looks like she's-- it looks like she's left-handed. So I'm going to switch them again. Here, cheese, veal breast, cheese, veal breast. So this puppy actually is just left handed. So either one's gonna work for her. She likes them both. I think we're gonna start with the veal breast though, that's really good. OK. Come here. So let's review. Come on. Come on, Sassy. Let's review. So I'm going to have the food in my left hand and I'm going to show her my signal for free stack with my right. This is what you did in the first lesson? This is what we did in the first lesson. [CLICK] So she hung on to that lesson pretty well. [CLICK] Nice. Just to review, in the first lesson, all we worried about is standing still. We just wanted stillness. So here we are again. [CLICK] Great. That's absolutely fantastic. So we're not having to lure it with food, we actually have-- we have a behavior here of free stacking. [CLICK] And I can get a little duration on it. So this is as far as we got. I can count to about two or three and she'd-- 1-- [CLICK] Good. So that's my stillness and my duration. Not worried about foot position, not worried about it being a good stack yet, I'm just worried about stillness-- [CLICK] --and just enough duration. Now, the reason I go for stillness and duration is my next step is going to be to try and move in front of the puppy. Remember, you can only change one thing at a time, and if I tried to put this all together-- oh, she moved on me. (WHISPERING) Got fast. Come here, girl. So now her concept is-- OK, stand still. (WHISPERING) Hold on. Hold on, baby. Stand still. Come here. She has to learn to stay still while I move. Come here. (WHISPERING) Stand still. [CLICK] Oh, come on, sweetie. You're faster than me. It's not easy with you tiny guys. Come here. [CLICK] So I had to do a small-- what we call a smaller approximation of moving. I think I'm gonna move her feet a little bit. [CLICK] Good girl. Worked that in. We worked on this a little bit last time. So-- oh. (WHISPERING) Come here, . Come here. Stand up. [CLICK] Good girl. OK. So let's try the moving again. Stand still. [CLICK] Good girl. She just has to learn that my moving is not a cue for her to move, that the rule of standing still-- [CLICK] --still applies when I'm moving. And you have to start it-- that's a good girl. [CLICK] Good girl. Let's have some more of this meat. Come here. Come here. So again, I'm at the side of her, I've given her-- [CLICK] Good. With this puppy, I can only move my feet a tiny little bit. See? You gotta stand still baby girl. Come here. Come here. [CLICK] Good! Very well done. Very well done. Now, I think we're running up on the amount of time that I would train a new puppy. I should say a small puppy, not a new puppy. New to this world. [CLICK] Good girl. That's very well done. I think that was a good turn for you. That was a really good turn for you, it was. It was really good. So let's switch her out for Imogen. No, I know you're a good girl. Good girl. Here you go, sweetie. OK, there you go. Sassy. There you go, Sassy. [INAUDIBLE] Sassy. Again, trying to limit her session for learning something new to about two minutes. We really-- again, in public culture, we go into distributed learning and the neurological reasons for this, but when you're teaching a novel behavior that's difficult for the puppy to learn, two to three minutes is plenty of time. What we'll do is we'll cycle through, but what you would want to do is like three two minute sessions rather than one 15 minute session, because one 15 minute session with a tiny baby puppy is pretty much, I would say, counterproductive. So we're going to have-- now we're gonna have Imogen. So-- [CLICK] I'm gonna work a little bit with Imogen on the same thing and then I'm going to move on to the next step. Hi, mama How are you? Here she is. She looks sleepy. You can put her down. Hi, sweetheart. You ready to go? Yeah, there are some cookies there. What do you think? Are you gonna like cheese or meat better? Let's see if we can get a preference on one of these puppies or if they're just such empty vessels that they-- here, that's veal and that's cheese, that's veal and that-- it looks like cheese. Let's see. Unless you're all left Let's see. Here's veal, here's cheese, here's veal, here's cheese. They're all left-handed. Isn't that bizarre? Nope. They're all left-handed, probably because I've been training them this way. They're looking for the food in that hand. I'll have to show this to you on an adult dog because that's very interesting that they have no preference. You guys are making liars out of me. You crazy dogs. Did you miss my puppies? OK, so let's review. Again, coming back to the-- [CLICK] --coming back to the lesson, reviewing the last thing that we taught for both you and for the puppies. [CLICK] So this one clearly is a pistol and has it. Come here. Come here. [CLICK] Good girl. Nicely done. Nicely done. Come here. Let's move back a little bit because we're getting on the edge of the rug. OK, so now let's try the movement. See as soon as I start moving how that changes the picture for her? Criteria? [CLICK] Yeah, the technical word for that is criteria. You know, sometimes we kind of get caught in dog training jargon, which "criteria" can be kind of a cold word for people. It's sometimes easier for people to understand the picture. So here's the picture. And then-- oops, I had the wrong end of the clicker. But that's OK, she gets it. I use-- because I know this audience is going to probably not be dog trainers and more show people, I'm not using the technical term of criteria, although that's what it is. You can only change one criteria at a time. But what I'm saying is this, this with me here-- [CLICK] --is a different picture than me turning my body that way. Good girl. So you're doing so well with that, so let me show you something. Stand here. Come here. So I'm gonna just-- [CLICK] Good girly! Very nicely done! [CLICK] Whoops! [CLICK] You got an extra click there. OK, so I'm gonna show people how we do this with you now. So we're going to move ahead a little bit a little bit faster than we would because people have to see the next step. Normally, I would say I would try and get that a little bit more solid before I move to the next step, but our viewers are not with us all the time, so we have to show them. So the next thing I would do would be to add movement where I actually walk into it and ask her to stand. If you had a table breed, you might go to the table before that. There's really no rule about in what order you teach all these things, it just depends what's important and easiest for you. Puppy! Puppy! [KISSES] Come here. Come on, let's go here. Come, come. Imogen. [KISSES] [CLICK] Good girl. So now she's learning how to walk into her stack. Come here, girlfriend. [KISSES] Come on. Come on, come on. But obviously, you have to have that first step really solid-- [CLICK] Good girl! --so that she knows. If you don't have that first step really solid where she really just hits that stack when you put your finger up, don't add movement. And for some puppies, it's gonna take longer. Come on. [KISSES] Come on. [CLICK] Good girl! Yes, she says, that's how we do it! That's how we do it! Yes! OK. I'm probably popping that mic because I'm screaming that she's such a good girl. So obviously she's a quick study on that. We actually did not work on that yet, but she got it very quickly. So again, you probably would not be advancing this quickly. but she's doing it, so I'm going to go ahead and I'm going to show you how you now would introduce the collar to her. And this is really important, and I cannot overemphasize this, that this piece of equipment is not a training piece of equipment. Basically, my dogs go into the ring on short leash because I can't take them in without one. It is not to control the dog, although I do teach my dogs a yield to pressure to help them fix their feet. But as far as actually controlling the dog in the ring, no. You train them without this. This is not-- this is not to train. It's more of a safety net. Come here. [KISSES] Puppy! Puppy! So when I put this on her, I'm just gonna rest it right on there and I'm gonna feed her so she'll forget about it, because the first thing is it feels weird to have something around your neck. She has never had anything around her neck before in her life, so she's gonna be like, whoa, what the heck is that? So let's see if she can do her free stack now with this added. [CLICK] Oh! She says it doesn't mind. I don't mind that at all! Again-- Good girl. --we want this to disappear for her. So very important, you're not gonna tug on it or do anything. [CLICK] You just want her to be able to go back to the first iteration of the behavior, which is the free stack, and just have stillness with this crazy thing around her neck. [CLICK] Yes! You're doing so well! Doing so well! You're a little bit of a show, because normally they aren't this quick. [CLICK] Good girl! Wow. Wow, wow, wow, wow. Yes. OK. So again, now I'm gonna go through my next step again, my previous step, which is to have movement with this thing around her neck. Come on. [KISSES] Come on. Come on, Imogen. Puppy, puppy. Come on. Yay, puppy, puppy! Come on. [KISSES] Yay, puppy, puppy! Come on, puppy, come. [KISSES] [CLICK] Good girl! Nicely done! Aren't you the cleverest? Oh, that's so good. That's so good, that's so good. Now, I mean, really, in reality-- and we're gonna bring another puppy out-- you know, this might take three or four sessions to actually get what we just did with this puppy. And by the way, this was more than enough time to train this puppy. What I just did here, it wasn't short for your benefit. This is how long I would train this puppy. So again, I just have to emphasize that not every breed is gonna be as bold as a Bull Terrier. We're gonna leave her here. I'm going to bring the table out and show the table. Not every breed is gonna-- or every puppy is gonna learn this quickly. But you have to wait until the puppy really shows you that they know that previous step before you move on. We call it a conditioned emotional response, where they give you that expectant look like, oh, yeah, I got it, where's my food? Come here, darling. So yeah, let's bring out the table. So now we're gonna basically repeat exactly the same steps, but on the table. And you're gonna see-- if I'm not mistaken. I've only had her on the table once. But this puppy is a little bit less certain when she gets up on the table. Now, I'm gonna rest the table-- my legs against the table so it's nice and firm. Come here. Can you do this? [CLICK] I'm gonna go back to luring a little bit because I know from having had her on the table before, she's a little bit more worried about the table. See this? [CLICK] Good girl. Would you get Sassy? Because I want to show side by side quickly how-- come here. [CLICK] Good girl. All right, so she's doing better than she did last time on the table. You know, and everybody has their challenges. [CLICK] Good girl! Now that's doing good on the table. Again, not worried about feet, not worried about anything, just worried about stillness. Come here. This changes the whole picture for her that she's up on the table, so we have to start from the beginning. [CLICK] Good girly girl! That's really very good. That was really very good. And again, that's plenty. Now, the first time I put them on the table-- and I'll bring out a dog that has not been on the table before-- the first thing I do is just feed them on the table. This puppy's been on the table twice already. OK. You're done. I'll take Sassy Bee. She goes away? She could-- yeah-- uh-- yeah, you can put her away. Give me, um-- let me see, give me, uh, Catfish. Has Gina introduced herself yet? Gina-- yes, I forget that people don't know her. My assistant, student, and good friend Gina, who has been on all our broadcasts, and in Puppy Culture, and did the sound, and-- Catfish? Catfish. Let's do Catfish. OK, so come here, mom. Who is this? So this is Sassy again. And I bring out Sassy because I don't know if it's apparent today, but she just has always been a lot more confident on the table. "Always," I've put them on the table twice before. So it looks like Imogen has really stepped it up on the table. [CLICK] Good girl. And Sassy Bee, I don't know if the difference is that apparent, but I'm gonna show you a dog who has not been on the table who also was a little bit of a softer dog. The girls, of course, are just-- [CLICK] --a lot bolder at this age. A lot of times they are. At least that's been my experience. [CLICK] Good girl. OK. So like with this one, again, we can just start moving the foot-- [CLICK] --and clicking. I'm gonna start putting her into position. Come here. Good girl. Nice. [CLICK] Nicely done! Nicely done. And you know, when I'm fixing her feet, I can just support her a little bit here, scratch her a little bit under the-- good girl. If you just scratch a little and support a little here, you can get the little feet back. Yeah. And then you find out that you had a piece left that you didn't know about over there. That's a good girl. That's a very good girl. OK. He's a wiggler. He's a wiggler, and he's not gonna be as happy on the table as the other ones are. Oh, he could make a liar out of me but-- Can she go away? Uh, yeah, she can go away. So how's it going, Fish? Oh, gosh, he doesn't care at all. This is Catfish. So Catfish has never been on the table, but he just doesn't seem to care. In fact, he just really seems to care about the food. But nonetheless, because he's never been on the table, I'm still just gonna feed him because at some point-- ow! I guess you don't care about the table. All right. Who might be a little worried about the table? Let's try Sparky. Let's see if Sparky is a little more worried. I'm trying to find one that's worried for you guys so you can see. But again, my goal here is simply to-- let me try some cheese, because I think I'll get my finger chewed less with the cheese-- simply to acclimate him. He also has not has had as much show stack work. [CLICK] Good boy. Come on. Oh, yeah. Don't go off the table, please. Come here. [INAUDIBLE] We're gonna try and find somebody who is a little more worried about the table. [CLICK] Yeah, he's not worried about the table, unfortunately for you guys, for us today, fortunately, for us in life. Hello. [CLICK] Wow, look at you! He says, nope. Table? No problem. Let's find-- I think Sparky might be a little softer on the table. Again, the puppy's never been on the table before, let's see if we can one-- no, nobody cares. That Puppy Culture unfortunately for the demo-- [CLICK] --it just, uh-- here. So and why you suppose that they are afraid of-- Well, so, you know, again, my first step with this would just be literally just to feed the puppies on the table. And normally, they don't want to lift their head, they're scared, because to lift their head up, they have to really-- they want to crouch to keep their center of gravity low because the table has a little bit of motion, which obviously this puppy doesn't care at all about the motion. This is all the Puppy Culture stuff that we do with them that they just-- you know, he just doesn't care. But normally, what you'll see is they'll kind of-- they'll spread their legs out and want to crouch and they won't-- --somebody said, you have food, of course they don't care. Yeah, that's not true at all. Explain-- Yeah, that's not true at all because-- Nobody knows the question, so repeat what i asked. OK, somebody said, well, you have food, of course they don't care. But that's not true at all. In fact, especially in a younger puppy, as anybody knows who's tried to show a soft dog, the fear of being on the table can way outweigh the food. I mean, if it were truly that simple that all you needed was food, nobody would ever have a problem with the dog on the table. But no, it's definitely-- it's a great question, but definitely-- or a great comment-- but definitely they can-- [CLICK] Yes! Hi, buddy boy. --they can be afraid. For sure they can be afraid. So again, your first time you put them on the table, you just want to feed, feed, feed. You don't want to try and get any behaviors. You just want to give them some stuff just to create a classically conditioned response. And again, you know, just to go back to it one more time, the fear of heights and being on a wobbly table can far outweigh the love of food, especially in a lot of non-food motivated breeds. It can be a much bigger issue. How long have we been going now? 22 minutes. 22 minutes. OK. So now you've seen sort of the progression of where I would take my puppies in the second week of training. And I'm gonna bring the puppies out again, but what I'm gonna do now is bring out an adult dog to show you what the next step after what we show you with the puppies today will be for the puppies. The puppies are maybe a little bit too young to be taking this step yet, but I'm gonna show you with an adult dog and then we'll try it with Imogen and see if she-- see if she's on to it. So-- Luigi's not been out yet. Did you wanna-- We can do him on the second round. It's OK, because they've seen-- it's enough, they've seen-- they've seen how it goes. So-- So why you're swapping is a question. OK. So why don't you take him away and then I'll let Norah out and Norah will demo our adult dog thing. --to repeat this with a mic. OK. So puppies who do crouch down, how do you get them to want to get up-- Right. Puppies who do crou-- --very nervous on the table to begin with. So puppies who do crouch down, how do you get them to come up? And this is my point, is that put them on there-- first of all, brace the table so it doesn't bounce. Put them on, I mean, just for a few seconds, and feed, feed, feed, and make sure that it's a good experience. If they're truly just terrified and they won't even take food, just take them off. Just put them on for a second, and take them off. Eventually you want to acclimate them to the point where they'll just take food. Don't worry about anything except giving them a little food on the table. Imogen crouched completely the last time I had her on the table. She absolutely was splay footed, I couldn't get her to look up at all. And I didn't do anything, I didn't solve it in that one session. You may not see the difference in that session. She still was crouching at the end of the session. But I just fed her, fed her, fed her, put her away, couple days later took her out again. She was much better, started working with her a little, but she still didn't really want to raise her head a lot. Didn't sweat it, put her away, and you see how she came out today like a million bucks. So I think one of the errors as trainers that we make is that we think that if we don't see progress in a session, that we haven't succeeded, and that's not true. Especially when you're dealing with emotional interference issues like fear, you may be making underlying associations that will move your training story forward that you cannot necessarily see. So again, don't sweat it if it looks like, hey, you know, the puppy isn't really progressing in this session. As long as you just feed, make a pleasant association, don't ask for more and just a few seconds, not more than a minute for a puppy like that for certain. How many two minute sessions would you do in, say, an hour? And how much nap time do the puppies get in between? Well, you know, again, ideally-- what I do, I have nine puppies. I run through them, and then I run through them all again. So that's about a half-- it's an hour of training. You know, I'm training them for an hour and they each get two sessions, and that is more than enough. How long? Two to four minutes? Two to three minutes maximum. So then it tops out at really six minutes per puppy. About six minutes a puppy on a novel behavior like this at this age. Now, obviously, part of the behavior of showing a dog is for them to have the endurance to stand in a group or whatever they have to do for a long period of time. But even then, when you think about it-- and you train that separately. I mean, that becomes duration, which you can train more when they're older. But even then-- if we do continue with this series, we'll show you-- they only really have to be on and showing for a very short amount of time in front of the judge. And the rest of the time, you as a handler have to learn how to do things to give them a little mental relief and make it enjoyable and relaxing for them. But yes, you are gonna have to have duration on a puppy. I'll have Norah now, and then you can help me bring-- help me bring this in. All right, so we have this contraption set up here to show you. I'm gonna put this over here. So this is how we teach the release. I have to actually keep this closed, otherwise she's gonna go in there. So, Norah, hang on. Hi, darling. This is Norah. This is the great aunt of the puppies. So again, to review-- come here. You're gonna wear some clothes. Yeah, you're gonna show people how you look with clothes on. Here you go, darling. I know. She's like, what? What do you need? What do you need? So let's see if Norah has a preference. Come here, Norah. Which one of these do you like better? Come here, Norah. Come here. Sit. All right, so you see here we have cheese, and here we have veal. Then here we have cheese, and-- so veal. Veal. All right, so here. Oh, everyone's left-handed? Everyone's-- oh, this is crazy. What's going on here? Here, that's veal, that's cheese, that's veal. Maybe they're just really close-- they must just be really close in value. I'm gonna have to video that and give it to you guys because I swear it normally works. OK. That's what they all say. That's what they all say. Come here, Norah So, Norah, stand. Stand up. Come on. Good girl. Stand. Stay. OK. Yes, good girl. I just want to preface this with saying that Norah was my pick puppy from the litter that she was in. We had nine gorgeous puppies and I kept her to run on, but then this happened. Can you see that? Ain't that gorgeous? So we never-- we never did-- we never did show her. So her show stacking behaviors are pretty much limited to what I did with her before she was five months old. So she doesn't really know 100% how to stack, but she's got the release down. Stand. Stand. [KISSES] Come on, buddy. Come on, girl. Stand. Just stand up there. Yeah, she doesn't know how to fix her feet or anything, but she knows the release. OK. Yes. So why do you need that release? We talked about it last time. Why do you need that release? We talked about it last time that if you're baiting a dog, right? Come on, stand up, baby. She doesn't-- you know, if you have to, like, string up a dog and be right in front them-- well, she's crouching because she doesn't really know-- she's not really a seasoned show dog-- but also, it's creating this ugly outline-- here, stay. --whereas if you can get a little further away from them and get their head down, you've got a much more pleasing outline for the dog. OK. And you want them rolled over their front end. You don't want them bracing back this way. What a lot of people will do is-- come here. Stand. Stay-- is they'll keep stepping into the dog to get them to stand up and then you can tend to get-- it works in the sense that gets them to stay back and stand up, but you can get them bracing back this way, which is not an attractive picture. You actually-- come here. Come. Stand. I want you to stand, baby. You can-- atta girl. Come here. Step. Stand. Come on. [KISSES] Poor thing, she doesn't really understand this behavior 100%. Stand. Then you can get away from them, bring their head down, and get a much nicer picture. But she's thinking-- her weight-- stay-- is leaning forward because she's thinking about going forward. OK. So-- Gina-- yeah, just see what's happening in there. So how do we get that? It can't be-- you can't do this, you can't release with your hand, you can't go like this, you can't say OK, because all those things are things that I'm gonna use to position her head. Maybe I want her head a little bit this way. Maybe I want her head this way. Maybe I want her head up here. Maybe I want her head-- stand. Come here. [KISSES] Good girl. She's [INAUDIBLE]. Yeah, we'll get Zoo. She's more-- you know, she's actually done this. So again, different picture depending on the dog and what, you know, your strengths and weaknesses on you-- OK. You want to be able to do that. So can't you-- you have to have a verbal release. So here's how you do it. You start with a crate. Now, if any of you are familiar with Susan Garrett's crate games, absolutely fantastic. But in reality, it's probably opera, where you just need, like, a little pop tune. You don't-- it's great if you wanna do that whole program, but all you really need to do is teach the dog the concept of breaking when you say "OK." So what I start with-- come here, Norah, Norah. Now, she's just gonna go in there as soon as I open the crate. But I want you to notice that I've padded the front end of this wire crate because she's gonna be running in and out quickly and she could wind up breaking a toe on this. Come here, Norah. So-- OK. [CLICK] So I'm shaping her-- I've shaped her to go in. And then you feed through here. So basically, I'm gonna move around-- [CLICK] --and anytime that she doesn't-- oof! --break-- oh, sorry. There you go. Good girl. Good girl. Stay in there. So I'm moving around, I'm proofing this. Now-- I know. You wait-- I'm not worried about what her position is in here. I know a lot of trainers worry that the feet have to be a certain way. All I care is that this is the force field, and if she doesn't break past that door, I'm fine with that. Then, once I have that, that she doesn't break past the door, I'm gonna start closing it. Then I'm gonna open the door-- [CLICK] --and if she doesn't break, I'm gonna c click her. She's-- again, she's totally got this, so-- OK. [CLICK] Good girl. She actually does this a little bit too well. Let's get Phoebe. We're gonna bring out Phoebe. She is 10 months old, almost 11 months old. She's had absolutely no show training and not a whole heck of a lot of any other kind of training. Phoebe is kind of like our mascot. She was bred by Victoria Cors, and everybody loves her. That's right. Come on, Pheebs. So, now, this dog doesn't know, so-- [CLICK] Good girl. So I'm gonna-- Know what? Doesn't know how to go in the crate. So I'm gonna just-- yes! [CLICK] So I'm gonna click her for any looking toward the crate. I'm gonna stand back here a little bit because she totally doesn't get it. [CLICK] OK. So I'm clicking her for just looking at the crate. Now, because this is-- because this is an hour program-- hey, Pheebs. [KISSES] Come on. Phoebe, come on. You wanna work, baby? You want some cheese? Come on. Come on. So because it's like-- I don't have time to do the whole shaping thing, I'm just gonna put her in and show you what I mean about the release. Normally, I would free shape the dog to go in there. You can get "When Pigs Fly" and learn all about free shaping. That would take quite a while to do here with this dog. But here's a dog that doesn't know about staying, and so I'm just gonna keep her in there by feeding her. Good girl. Come on, you stay in there. [CLICK] That's good. So now I've got kind of a bit of a stay behavior there, she's actually staying. [CLICK] Good. So I'm clicking her there. In the beginning, I didn't click her. I just fed her in there because I just wanted her to stay in. But once I feel that I actually have a thoughtful behavior of staying in the crate-- [CLICK] Yes! That was good. She stayed in. So now watch what happens. I'm gonna close this door and then I'm gonna open it. Oh, good girl! She didn't break. Well, I thought she might, but she didn't, and I haven't trained her this. I think they-- they're in the other room reading the-- good girl. The cheese is here, sweetheart. Here's your cheese. OK, so that's what I call a zero. She just got up, she-- OK, good girl. She's like, oh, no, I get it, I get fed in here. Again, it's not wrong, you don't want to correct her. You actually almost want her to make these mistakes of coming out so that she learns that she doesn't get paid for that. [CLICK] Good girl. I don't know why she's doing this so well, but she-- she just is. So now I'm gonna open it, I'm gonna feed her once for being in there, I'm gonna stand back a little bit. OK. OK. Stand back a little further. Pheebs. OK. [CLICK] Yes, good girl. Now, see, I click just one movement of the foot because she knows she gets paid to be in there now, so she doesn't wanna come out. She's not stupid. Come here now. That wasn't on cue. You're OK. That's good. That was good. That was good. So again-- come on. [KISSES] Come. Come, come, come. OK. You can go back in there. We wouldn't do this in real life, but we're going to do it just because we're on TV, so you stay there. OK. OK. OK. OK. [LAUGHING] Oh, Phoebe. She's doing fine. She's gonna get it. She's gonna get it. And then when she gets it-- I know, sweetheart. She's like, maybe it's in, maybe it's out. You just have to wait till I say the word. OK, you stay there. You stay there. OK. OK. Yes! Good girl. That's it. Here you go. Now I'm gonna give that back to you in there just to set things up more quickly. Yeah, but see, it's not just come out. This is what she has to learn is the algorithm that's come out when I say come out. Now, I'm just pushing her back in the crate because you guys are here. This is not how you would do it. That's good. How would you do it? Hold on a second. OK. OK. OK. OK. The movement-- OK. [CLICK] Good girl. That's it. Good girl. Jane, why does stepping back and saying, OK-- um-- Well, because it tempts her a little bit more. OK. You know, just stepping away but being still when I deliver the cue, I'm not luring her with my body as much as making it more tempting for her to want to break, if that makes any sense. So I'm not using a motion cue. I am standing still when I break-- when I ask her to break, but I'm making the behavior of breaking more likely by putting distance. Hair. Your hair. OK. OK. [CLICK] Good girl. I honestly think she's watched the other dogs do this and has learned it. Good girl. That's very good. Again, what I would do-- now I'm just gonna go out one time and just feed her for staying still. What I would do is I'd have this free shape that she knew to go in and out and I didn't have to push her back in, but time constraints. I don't have time to do that. It's in my book, "When Pigs Fly." There's a whole section on free shaping. You can learn how to do it there. But for the purposes of this demo-- oh, see, now, that's excellent, because now she's experimenting with different behaviors. OK, I want you to get back in there. And she's gonna figure out-- she kind of is thinking, oh, maybe it's come out, but I don't know why. Pheebs, OK. [CLICK] Yes! Good girl. Good girly. That's good girly. That's very good. --plus themselves. OK. All right, Gina is gonna bring us Sassy again. Now Sassy is gonna get to do the movement and the collar. We're gonna put the-- oh, are we gonna put the collar on? Yeah, we're gonna put the collar on and walk into the stack. All right, here she is. [DOOR CLOSES] So again, I'm gonna just go back over-- hi, sleepy baby. Ooh, she's a sleepy baby. So-- you can just put her down right there-- I'm just gonna go back over some steps here with her. Come here. [KISSES] Come here. So-- come here-- just to review. Yes. Good girl. I didn't bring my clicker down. I brought my leash but not my clicker. Come here, let's just review a little bit. Come here. Yes, just a quick review that-- [CLICK] Oh, yes! That will do very nicely. That will do very, very nicely. OK. So now let's try walking into it. Come on. [KISSES] Puppy, puppy, puppy. Puppy, puppy, puppy. Pup, pup, pup, pup. Pup, pup, pup, pup, pup. [CLICK] Sometimes I'll bring my hand right down to their face that way and show it to them. Come on. Puppy, puppy, puppy. [KISSES] Puppy, puppy, puppy. Come on. Show them what? The food? My hand down to their face and show them the hand that way-- [CLICK] --because, again, if I just put my hand out here, sometimes they might miss it, especially if they're walking, because they can do about one thing at a time here. Come on, puppy. [KISSES] One more time, and I'm gonna try and get a little bit ahead of you this time. Come on. You ready? Here you go. There we go. [CLICK] Good girl. Very nicely done. OK, let's try your leash. Jane, can you suggest resources for learning what the proper stack is? How to do a-- how to stack a dog well? Or perhaps what the stack should look like. You know, I think one of the best-- I don't know one that's specifically about that, but "An Eye for a Dog" is a great book that does have some illustrations of how much difference a good or a bad stack can make. It's really a deeper question than you might think because it depends a lot on your dog's conformation, but I don't know of a resource offhand. And it depends a lot on the breed as well, correct? Uh, well, I think different breeds are presented slightly differently. I think, you know, ultimately-- hold on. Again, I've added the leash, so I'm gonna-- oops, I should take my food out. That-- that was my bad. Come here. [CLICK] I've added the leash and the collar, so I'm gonna back off on my other criteria. Come here. [CLICK] And again here you're using cheese and roasted veal, correct? Yeah, that's correct. You say you have the food in your left hand with the clicker in there. Yeah, I have the food in my left hand. Come here, puppy. So we're gonna do this one time and then I'm gonna show you about examining mouths. Come on. [KISSES] I know, that's crazy, you have something on you. It's weird. It's weird. She's never had this. [CLICK] Good girly. That's awfully good. One more time with the collar and we'll try and get in front. Come on. [KISSES] Oh, chewing up. Chewing up. Chewing up. (WHISPERING) Stand. Oh, that's good. [CLICK] Good girly! That's awfully good. All right, that was a good lesson for that. OK, one more thing I'm gonna show you guys is examining the mouth, which for those of yous that have breeds that have to be groomed on the face, this is really important too. So here's the deal. People make a big deal about examining mouths. They stick their fingers in the puppy's mouth, they do this. And what bothers dogs about having their mouth examined is not the teeth. It's the holding of the muzzle, because you have to hold the mouth closed and then pull the lips up, and it's that holding the jaw shut that freaks them out. [INAUDIBLE] Good girl. Very good girly! That's a very good girl. So again, my first approximation for the mouth exam is to get them used to holding the mouth shut because that's the part that they don't like. Good girl. Good girl! Good girl. Now, if you haven't already seen my shaping emotional responses video, take a look at it because this is the foundation work that I put in with this puppy. This was a very sassy puppy, which is why she's Sassy. But because of that early work I did with her where annoying things mean good consequences, she's taken this in stride. In fact, she's holding still for me, and I've never done it. Yeah, good girl. She's not losing her mind. Good girl. She actually is anticipating. Because it is somewhat aversive for me to do that, she's looking at me like, oh, I know I get paid for that. This is where that early work really comes in. But even if you didn't do it, you can start doing it now. You might just have to approximate it a little bit slower. You may not to be able to be as rude as I'm being. Obnoxious. Yeah. Again, as, you know, somebody who-- I've only ever judged sweepstakes, but I'm always careful when I come in to examine a dog. I try and come in with my hands underneath. You cannot count on that in the show ring. I mean, you get a 6 foot 3" guy with a beard just, you know, 300 pounds coming in like this over your dog, you gotta approximate all this stuff. Again, we're shaping emotional responses. If they can learn-- if they can learn that something that is naturally obnoxious is rewarding, they'll generalize that if you can teach them that when they're young. Uh-huh, yeah, that you don't like so much, huh? Good girl. I know. I know. I know. I know. OK, so that's enough for her for that session, but I would do a lot of that with them, a lot of this feed, this feed. OK, any questions? Because I think that's about what we have time for today. You have 10 minutes if you wanna combine anything else. Can you, uh, do the same protocol with a five-month-old puppy? Absolutely, but you're gonna do it a lot slower. OK, hold on a second. Oh, you absolutely-- the question is, can you do the same protocol with a five-month-old puppy? And yes, you absolutely can. But once you're past the 12 week period, you're into a different territory where now you have to be careful of not sensitizing the puppy. Because of the protocols-- the Puppy Culture protocols and because of what we did with these puppies when they're young, I have no problem going in and being pretty darn obnoxious to this puppy and just feeding her and being confident that I'm gonna be counter conditioning the aversiveness of having a muzzle held. If you have a five-month-old puppy, you're past the critical socialization period where they're very sensitive to classical conditioning and being able to imprint positive responses, and also you may not have a Puppy Culture puppy. So in that case, you just have to be very cautious and approximate it very slowly. So for a five-month-old puppy, for instance-- this is why you use edible bait-- I might come in like this and just start with this. Uh-huh. I'd start with the least invasive approximation, which would probably just be put the hand on the chin, right here. Good girl. So we start asking these questions. Good girl. Maybe some eyes-- In fact-- How old are these puppies and at what age did you start stacking training? Mm-hmm. Mm, that's quite good. These puppies are seven and a half weeks old. They have-- they've been-- we started clicker training them and teaching them to be operant at four weeks old. They had their first free stacking lessons at five weeks old. So I'd say about five and a half weeks old is normally when we start them with these behaviors, but keep in mind that we've been laying a foundation for them for learning with the communication trinity from when they're four weeks old. Hi, sweetheart. Great question. It is a great question. Here's another question that's really good. At what age do you stop teaching the CER? That's a great question. At what age do we stop teaching the CER? They don't under-- it's a great way to explain CER. We don't. OK. Well, a CER is a conditioned emotional response. Are you here, honey? That food is for you, not me. So there is no time at which you stop-- you would stop wanting to teach or instill conditioned emotional responses. The difference-- I think what really the question is asking is at what age can you go in haphazardly and just be pretty aversive and just add food and just get a conditioned emotional response, and my answer to that is 12 weeks. There's a huge-- there's a seismic shift after 12 weeks. Before 12 weeks, there are fear periods, most notably five and eight weeks, where I would back off the puppy. But other than that time, you can pretty much just present an aversive scenario, as long as it's not truly terrifying for the dog, and feed them. And if they're food-motivated, you're gonna create a condition-- a positive conditioned-- a happy conditioned emotional response to that. When they're older, the reinforcers and motivators of the dog are completely different. So again, prior to 12 weeks old-- and we talked a lot about this in the shaping conditioned emotional responses-- shaping emotional responses-- my theory is that they are hypersensitive to imprinting classically conditioned responses. So just one or two exposures can change the way the puppy feels about something, or if they're neutral, can create a positive association. But that goes away like that when they're 12 weeks old. The difference between a 12-week-old and a 14-week-old puppy is huge. Now, it doesn't mean that you can't do the same thing and that you're not ever gonna be instilling conditioned emotional responses, absolutely. Anyone who has been to any of my dog training seminars knows that you do. Certainly in agility you do, certainly with fearful dogs you do. You're working to create new CERs all the time, but you're just going about it in a much more methodical way. You're gonna be more careful and not be so-called aversive to the puppy. You're not gonna just haphazardly present something that is unpleasant and then add food and expect a solution there. Oh, I have more to do with Zulu? Yeah, you were gonna show Zulu just to crate, I guess, or something. No, I think-- did we do the crate? Does anybody have-- are there any course questions about the crate? Yes, there is a question. Could you go over more-- you were stepping away to entice the puppy out, and then you-- but you indicated that you were still when you were releasing. Yes. Would you just expand on that a little better and make it more clear? OK. So I have to get the behavior from the puppy, but I don't want the puppy to move when I'm moving. So the behavior is that I give a verbal cue and the dog breaks as I'm still. If the dog breaks as I'm walking away, that's not it. The picture that the dog has to see, part of the cue is my stillness. Part-- to start out with, at least-- is that I'm gonna be still and it's just the verbal. You really wanna isolate that. So as I'm walking away, I'm making it more likely for the dog to want to break. If you have trouble with the dog wanting to break, you can put distance, which is one of the distance, duration-- are you good? --and distraction-- distance, duration and distraction-- is one of the three ways that you can make something more difficult for a dog. So it makes it more likely that the dog will break. But if the dog had broken when I was walking away, I'm not gonna click that. I'm gonna get further away, stand still, give my verbal cue, and then wait for her to break. Normally, I would say she has to break within five to 10 seconds after my verbal cue. Otherwise, I'll just repeat and reset it up. I hope that answers your question. So a follow up question, you have to repeat it, "I just got a 11 and a half week old puppy yesterday, not a Puppy Culture puppy. Should you do CER?" So again-- Should you do CER? Well, absolutely. Yeah, absolutely. So-- so, if you have Puppy Culture, certain things like the-- So repeat the question. OK, so somebody says, I just got an 11-week-old puppy, not a Puppy Culture puppy, should I do CER? And you're constantly-- again, the answer is-- as we say in-- Don't worry about the dog. [KISSES] I just want to make sure he comes. As we say in dog training, Pavlov is always sitting on your shoulder. You're always creating conditioned emotional responses. It's an ongoing process. So yes, you should. At 11 weeks old, I'd say you-- depending on the breed, if you can write in what breed it is-- you may be-- [CLICK] --budding up on the end of your critical socialization period. A little more caution may be warranted. You should keep your eyes out. But for sure, things like the resource guarding protocol, you should be doing exchanges with your puppy. I mean, that's one of the most important CERs is these-- the body handling? Absolutely you should be doing that, creating conditioned emotional responses. But again, to clarify, the issue or the question is not whether you're creating conditioned emotional response. You're constantly doing that. Constantly. The dog's whole life you're gonna be doing that. In fact, again, this is beyond the scope of this, but if you've been to one of my dog training seminars, you understand that it is the stepping stone that allows us to go-- looking for the CER is how we know we can move on to the next level and raise criteria. But the issue is, how quickly can you advance? How do you get to that CER? With a young puppy, you can-- again, you don't really have to do any counter conditioning and desensitization. You can just go in and work it, even if the puppy doesn't particularly like having its muzzle held, you can just go ahead and hold it and give food, and you'll probably wind up with a good conditioned emotional response unless the puppy's really freaked out by it. So, you know, there's always exceptions to the rule. But on an older dog, you can't just go in and grab the muzzle and feed because chances are that, because of the different motivators of older dogs-- they're no longer in the critical socialization period, they have a higher fear response-- the fear is probably going gonna outweigh the goodness of getting food. So again, you're always creating conditioned emotional response. The question is, how do you get there? And with a young puppy, you can get there a lot quicker and in a lot directer fashion than you can with an older dog. Going back to the 11 and a half week old puppy that she just got, not a Puppy Culture puppy. It's a standard poodle, no clicker training, again, is it CER versus bonding first. OK, well there's no diff-- they're not-- --exclusive. --two different things. They're not mutually exclusive at all. And if you've got a poodle, you know, and you're gonna show your poodle-- I assume it's a show poodle-- wow, yeah, you really just need to get them used to having their muzzle held now because that's basically how they live in the show ring, is they-- if you've ever been to the poodle ring, you'll see that this is pretty much what they're doing. Now, again, you have to gauge the dog's motivators. Come here. Wait, pretend to be a poodle for a second. So this is like-- this is how they-- when they're waiting to go in the ring, this is what they're doing. We can't understand you. When they're waiting to go into the ring, this is what they're doing, they're just holding the poodles like this. I know, you gotta chew. So you just wanna get them really used to having that happen. And yes, you wanna create a conditioned emotional response to that. Now, now it gets into a question of motivators. I'm not that familiar with baby poodles, I don't know how food-motivated they are. They may be more motivated by touch. So you may do this. [WHIMPER] So you hold the muzzle and then you stroke the dog, but you want to get the dog used to that. There's no-- there's no mutually exclusive thing between bonding and CER. In fact, probably you'll be creating a CER between a bond between you and the puppy by working on this stuff. And creating a CER is important whether it's a show dog or not, muzzle-- Absolutely. --or not, you work on it for everything, right? Absolutely. Good boy. But again, this is-- you know, this is your poodle, that's how they live outside the show ring. Gotta keep that hair good. OK, what else? OK. I'm pretty sure-- All right-- --that's it. --thanks. Thanks a lot. Well, this was our-- I hope that, you know, you guys all joined the Puppy Culture discussion group and I want to see lots of video-- Facebook. --on Facebook-- Puppy Culture discussion group on Facebook, and I want to see lots of video of you guys doing this with your puppies. Bye! Buh-bye. Luigi says, bye. Bye, Luigi. Luigi. Good boy.

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Duration: 55 minutes and 39 seconds
Language: English
License: Dotsub - Standard License
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Posted by: norabean on Apr 5, 2018

STACK2 (1)

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