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My leads are right here.
I got it, thanks.
OK.
OK.
Good girl.
Now come on, go see Kim.
Let's try it again.
Here, here Kim.
[SQUEAKY TOY]
You ready?
Yeah, you're ready
for your entrance.
Am I ready for my entrance?
OK.
Hi.
We're going to
focus on movement,
understanding gait,
and how to train
puppies to gait in the ring.
We're deliberately not going to
be introducing the judge a lot
at this point, because
people, like dogs, can only
learn one thing at a time.
So I don't want you
to get caught up
in ring craft and presentation.
I want you just to be able to
feel free to concentrate just
on the puppies and movement
and understanding that.
So I'm going to begin this
discussion with the most
basic conversation about gait.
Dogs are judged at the
trot in the show ring.
And the first question
is, what is a trot?
I think there might be some
people out there, especially
new people who've never had
any horse background that
don't even really understand
what a trot is, as opposed
to a canter or a walk.
Dogs have three basic gaits--
walk, trot, canter.
Now, there are these
other in-between gait--
there's the amble,
the pace, the gallop.
And then I think there are
a couple of other things--
there's some kind of shuffling
walk that some dogs have.
But basically, it's
the three gaits.
The walk is what we
call a four-beat gait.
Each foot strikes the
ground independently.
And I'm going to bring a
dog out to show this to you,
but I just want to lay the
foundation for you first.
So it's 1, 2, 3, 4.
1, 2, 3, 4.
At a trot, two feet are striking
the ground at the same time.
It's a two-beat gait
and it's diagonal.
When we say diagonal,
we mean the dog
is using the opposite
side front and back legs.
On the first beat
of the trot, Daphne
is striking the ground with her
right front and the left rear.
In the second beat,
she's striking the ground
with her left front
and right rear.
Again, the trot is
a two-beat gait--
1, 2.
1, 2.
1, 2.
1, 2.
What you as a viewer
probably could see easier
than the diagonal from
the side, what you can see
is that you'll see the legs
that are closest to you,
the front leg and the back
leg will be like this,
and then they'll be like this.
Like this, and like this.
So it's like a V and a
pyramid, a V and a pyramid.
So that's the trot.
Then the canter is
a three-beat gait.
We're not going to be
concerned with a canter today,
but I am going to show
you what the difference is
and what a canter looks like.
In the first phase
of the canter,
one rear leg
strikes the ground--
in this case, the right rear.
In the second phase, the other
rear leg and one front leg
strike together--
in this case, the left
rear and the right front.
Third, the remaining
front leg strikes--
in this case, the left front.
1, 2, 3.
1, 2, 3.
1, 2, 3.
Notice how this last front
leg appears to reach ahead
of the other legs.
This is called the lead.
In this case, Daphne's
on her left lead.
That last front
foot to fall tells
us what lead the dog is on.
Even though dogs have
different functions
and different purposes in
life that they were bred for,
and there are some breeds that
are what we call galloping
breeds that are sight hounds
that are meant to gallop
at a fast speed, that
the gallop or the canter
is their primary gait.
And then there are dogs that
are endurance trotters where
they're supposed to
trot for a long time.
There are speed trotters.
They're all different.
There are some dogs that
were not really built
for movement at
all, like terriers
that are built to go to ground.
Not that they
shouldn't move well,
but their entire construction
is a digging front,
it's really not
a trotting front.
So even though there are all
these different specialized
forms, at root, the trot--
you can judge, a
good judge can judge
how the dog would do
at his other functions
by looking at the trot.
That's why we use the trot.
I'm using Daphne-- stand--
because she has pretty
generic, good structure.
And what I mean by
good structure--
and we talked about this
in the last program--
the last program-- but I'm going
to say it again because some
people might not
have been here--
is that this bone and this
bone have a good angle.
It's almost like
a 45 degree angle.
This is lay back of shoulder,
this is return of upper arm.
And those angles are matching
her angles back here.
That these angles and these
angles are about the same.
So what that means is that
when she trots, try and watch--
when her front foot strikes
and she moves forward over it,
this rear foot is going to
take the space that she just--
as she's lifting this paw, this
paw is going to come in here.
That is a generic,
good trotting movement.
So come here.
Come on.
I want you guys to look again.
Come here.
You ready?
All right, let's go.
Good girl.
Good girl.
Come on, Daph.
Good girl.
Now, I'm talking
to her and she's
looking at me,
which is not ideal,
because it tends to throw
their front a little bit.
But you'll be able
to see, that's
your generic good trotting.
Come, come.
That's what the
judge is looking for.
They're looking
for that balance.
So there will be
some breed variations
depending on the
dog, particularly
in the front coming and going.
But for now, let's
just take it-- this
is your goal is to have just
a generic good trot like that.
So now, when the dog
is first setting out--
I know, I know, I know.
Sorry, Daphne.
When the dog is setting out,
sometimes you'll notice--
take it easy now, please--
you'll notice that they'll sort
of amble or pace a little bit.
And you're going to see maybe
the puppies doing that when
we train with them.
We don't want that, but
I don't want you to worry
about it today, because--
oh, and I should explain what
an amble or pace is, I guess.
That would help.
So an amble or a
pace is, sometimes
the dog-- and I don't know
if I can get her to do it.
Will you do it?
Come here.
Come on.
No, she's just going to walk.
She doesn't do it much.
She doesn't do it much,
because she has nice--
you know a good--
enough length and balance
that she's not going to--
she's not going
to amble, or pace.
But pacing is when these two
feet move at the same way.
So they move kind of like this--
like both feet on one side
and both on the other side move.
The pace is also
a two-beat gait.
But instead of using a diagonal
pair of legs, as in the trot,
the pace uses both
front and rear legs
on the same side of the dog
and they strike the ground
at exactly the same time as
this Chinook demonstrates.
Amble is sort of like a pace.
It's like somewhere
between a pace and a walk.
An amble is basically
a pace, where
the front foot falls a fraction
of a second after the same side
rear foot.
It's a four-beat gait with
the same foot cycle as a walk.
The chief difference being that
a walk has a regular 1, 2, 3,
4, 1, 2, 3, 4 rhythm.
And an amble has a 1-2,
3-4, 1-2, 3-4 rhythm.
And actually, for some breeds,
like Old English sheepdogs,
this is a very not
only acceptable gait,
it's a desirable gait for them.
But that's the exception.
Normally in the breed ring,
you want the judge always
to be seeing your dog trotting.
You're going to see that
maybe some of the puppies pace
at the beginning as
we're setting out.
I don't want you to
worry about that,
because that's really
ring craft and that's
presentation to the judge.
Let's just get the
puppies to the point
where they can move the
way that we want them to.
Don't be fussing too
much on either end.
We're going to
catch the good parts
and not worry about the
parts that aren't perfect.
You're a good girl.
Do you have to teach trot,
verse that amble or pace?
Well, yeah.
We're going to show--
I mean, trot should be a
natural gait for the dog.
And come here, Daph.
[KISSING SOUNDS]
So the bull terrier
is supposed to
have a short back.
And it's not a square breed,
but it should have a short back
and it should be short coupled,
so it should be ribbed back.
Like Daphne is very
well ribbed back.
But she also is what we
would call Dalmatian style.
She is not a super
cobby style dog.
She's done very well.
She's a very good dog.
But it's just her
particular type.
Not to get too into
it, but we really
have three distinct subtypes--
bull, terrier, and Dalmatian.
She's what you would
call Dalmatian.
Now, with some of the
more terrier types where
they might be a little shorter
in back and a little more
towards square, they will
tend to want to pace.
And it's probably to
avoid foot interference,
because they're so square
and relatively up on leg
that it's difficult for them
to get out of their own way.
Dogs that are a
little bit longer--
a little bit longer
than tall-- are going
to have a prettier side gait.
They're going to a better gait.
But not every dog is meant
to have that perfect gait.
So it's not--
I'm not saying it's faulty if
a dog is square and has to--
will tend to pace.
What you want to do is move the
dog just enough so that they
reach that place where they
have a little bit of suspension,
there's that moment
when all four feet are
off the ground and
those two feet,
you know, the rear
foot is taking
the place of the front foot.
The best way to do that is
to have someone video you.
Like in the stacking
videos, we recommended
the mirror, the
mirror, the mirror,
and to go in front
of the mirror.
With movement, you really need
to have someone video you.
So in this case, that was
fast enough for Daphne.
Some other dog might have
to go a little faster or not
that fast.
What you will see in the
breed ring a lot of times,
unfortunately, is handlers
running their dogs
off their feet, which really
shouldn't fool the judge.
And it's not-- it's flashy,
but it's really not right.
What you really want to show
is the movement of the dog.
And it only needs
to be fast enough
to show that foot
fall being correct.
As a very general
rule, a dog should
be able to achieve suspension
without moving too quickly
and without lifting
his feet very high.
Moved at a higher speed,
the same dog overreaches
with her rear feet and her legs
are much higher off the ground.
Certainly, there
are some breeds that
need to demonstrate an ability
to trot at a faster speed.
And not every breed is meant
to trot in a typical movement
such as this.
But for the vast
majority of breeds,
there should be no overreaching
with the hind legs.
And all four legs
should travel smoothly
and closer to the ground,
more like the image
on the left than the right.
So now we're going to talk
a little bit about fronts.
Fronts, I would say, vary more
as far as movement, than sides
even-- than the
side gait even does.
Because, there is basically
two different styles--
one is single track and
one is parallel movement.
Now, Karen, who's going to
come out and be our judge,
and her daughter Jenna
breed very successfully
Vizslas under the
Carriage Inn Kennel.
They've done very well.
And the Vizsla's a
single track breed.
So when they're
coming toward you,
their legs actually should
be converging and moving
in this way, underneath them.
The bull terrier calls for
parallel movement in the front.
They want to see those legs
coming straight at you.
So I'm going to demonstrate
Daphne's movement.
And then I'm just going to
editorialize a little bit
on that.
I know, here's your food.
She's like, and we're going to
get treats before we do that.
Because she says, all
my stuff is over here.
And this has been a
long time I've been
sitting around waiting to demo.
So you come with me.
Come on.
So-- so here we go.
Come here.
So let's go down and back.
You ready?
Come here.
Good girl.
Come on.
Good girl.
Yes, very nicely done.
Dee-Dee.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Good girl.
OK.
So OK, so a couple of things.
Normally, because-- come--
because dogs' legs will tend
to converge at higher speeds.
So especially in
a breed like this,
where the standard calls
for parallel movement coming
toward you, you
really don't want
to be-- you want to go a
little bit slower on the down
and back because it's going
to tend to make them not
converge as much.
I think even-- now,
Karen, correct me
if I'm wrong-- even with
a single track breed,
you will tend to go slower
on the down and back then
on the side gait.
Correct, yes.
So-- good girl.
So there is that difference.
Don't worry about it right
now because, again, that goes
to ring craft, but just to know
that there is a difference.
Now--
[SIGH]
--the reason why some breeds
are supposed to be single track
is generally if their
center of gravity is higher
and they're narrower,
in order to maintain
stability they have to do this.
I mean, I'm not going to
get into the whole physics,
but they need to be single track
if they're taller and thinner.
It's almost like a tall
bus as opposed to this dog,
which has the-- come
on, stand up, babe--
which has the heritage
of the bulldog.
So you can just see her
width compared to her height.
She does not need
to single track.
It would be-- if she
were single tracking,
she would be whippity and very
off type, because they just,
they don't.
Where I think that maybe our
standard is a little ambiguous
and there is some
misunderstanding about this
is that, if a dog has a good
return of upper arm, there--
the dog-- the arms--
the legs are going
to come in to some extent.
I mean, it's not
going to single track,
but it's not going to be
perfectly straight like this.
The only dogs that do this
are things like fox terriers
that have the very short
upper arm which allows them,
because they don't have
that arc, because they
don't have as much reach
on the front that way.
So unfortunately, in the
show ring a lot of times
dogs with short upper
arms will be rewarded
for good, clean movement coming
and going, which is not correct
but that's just the way it is.
Just something to be aware of,
that if you look at your dog
and you see that your dog has
beautiful return of upper arm
and then you look at
it coming and it's not
perfectly parallel, don't
feel bad, it's right.
It's correct.
What it should be is parallel
straight from the elbow down.
There shouldn't be
any of this or this
or turning or twisting
as it's doing this.
But it should come--
it can come a little bit in.
So that's my little
editorializing on that point.
Karen is going to
come out and help
us demonstrate our patterns.
And again-- come on out, Karen.
Let me introduce
you, first of all.
Karen it's just the best.
[CHUCKLING]
She is.
She is.
I've known Karen for
a very long time.
Karen teachers our
handling class every week.
I've been going to her
handling class like forever.
She teaches Junior Handling,
because she loves it.
I do.
And I judge them.
She judges it.
And she could be a judge
like ten times over a breed,
but she loves Junior
Handling, and that's
all she wants to judge.
Isn't that great?
It's really great.
So Karen is going
to come out and help
us demonstrate the patterns.
And again, we're not
going to be concerned
with training this so much
with the puppies today,
but I want you to understand
where we're going with it.
So the first pattern, I would
say, is all the way around.
Right.
And actually, there's
an A and a B to this.
Because, there's the all
the way around that you
do at first when
you're going-- and then
there's the one that you
do after examination, where
actually the judge is looking
at more sides of the dogs.
The initial one is to make
sure that you don't have
any lame dogs in your class.
OK.
That's what we do.
OK, so--
Yes.
But now, so-- and normally,
you would probably
be looking more at one
area and just-- right.
Yeah, it's just to make
sure that they're all sound
as they're moving around.
But definitely, there's an
impression being made there--
Absolutely.
--at the time.
Yes.
You're always judged.
Absolutely, yes.
So now, so then, Karen, you
would be in the middle, right?
And we would just--
so we would be taking
off right here.
So at all times, in this
pattern, at all times
Karen's going to be looking
at the side gait of my dog.
Come on, Dee-Dee.
Good girl.
Good girl.
And I'm going to cut it a
little bit short, because I
know I'm number one.
I win.
You are.
Now, so then comes
the individual exam.
So then, I would be
set up over here.
The judge would look at my dog.
And now--
And now I'm going to
send you a pattern.
You want to do down and back?
Down and back?
OK.
So now the judge is
going to look at--
but we're going to actually do
it right in front of the camera
so he can see it.
So now the judge is actually
going to look at my dog's--
I'm going to go straight down
this way so he can see it.
Come on, Daph.
Dee-Dee.
So now here is down.
Gitchee, gitchee.
And back, straight at the judge.
Beep, beep, beep.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Good girl.
Nice.
OK.
So that's down and back.
And then, triangle, right?
Yes.
So then-- and
increasingly, the AKC
doesn't like triangles,
because they feel
they may take too much time.
So most of the time,
you're going to have
around, down and back, and then
they'll send you around again.
But let's just do the triangle.
So I can do it right here, yeah.
So now with the
triangle, the judge
actually gets to see
all sides of the dog.
Because when you're-- you're
being judged the rear,
and then the side gait--
good girl, yes-- and
then the front gait.
Very nice, Jane.
Oh, thanks.
Dee [KISSING SOUNDS] good girl.
Very nice.
Good girl, nice.
Good, good catch, Daph.
Wait, so now-- so then--
at the end of
whatever, whether it's
the down and back or the around
or the triangle, at the end,
we're going to come in.
So now we're here.
And again, this is
a bull terrier thing
that we tend to
present the side.
But we'll talk more
about whether you
would present the side or
the front in the next--
for this dog, definitely,
I would present the side,
just because she's
good from the side.
So then you're finished looking.
And now you're going to
send me around again.
Yes.
But the difference is, what?
The first time we went around,
what were you looking at?
I was looking at your side.
But the second time, you're
really going to see all--
Everything, yes.
Everything, OK?
So she's going to
see going away.
So even though
it's technically--
OK-- the same
pattern, again, we'll
talk more about it
next week, you just
have to be aware that you're
being judged separately
each time, each side.
Good.
So my speed going
away is maybe going
to be a little bit slower.
Yes.
If you're-- if the judge
is standing in the middle,
I'm going to maintain a good
speed all the way around.
Exactly.
If the judge sends
me around from here,
I'm going to be a little
slower going away,
speed it up on the
corner, and then hit
my full stride coming around.
Exactly.
So those are your basic--
thank you, Karen--
OK.
Those are your basic patterns.
Now you know,
basically, what we have
to train our puppies to do.
The only other thing
I'm going to talk about
is leash handling.
And it's really a question
of style and your breed.
And there are really
two strategies.
One is to-- and I tend to show
you this because this is what
most people are going to do--
use a lead right behind
the neck right here.
And what you want to do
is, you want to give them--
hold just enough
pressure so they
have almost just
a little something
to lean into, which
will kind of shift them
forward a little bit over
themselves as they're moving.
And they'll tend to move
out very nicely with this.
Again, you're not pulling.
You're just holding it like--
I mean, literally, I could
hold this in two fingers.
Come here, Daph.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Good girl.
Come on, I know you don't--
you're sick of this.
So I'm literally holding
this in two fingers,
but it's giving her just
a little something--
she's getting tired of it--
it's giving her just a little
something to lean into.
Now, what will happen is,
when you do that and the dog
leans forward, it creates a
little instability in the dog
and they'll tend to move
out more, move forward.
It will increase
speed and stabilize
the dog moving forward, which
for most breeds is great.
However, our breed is
one of those breeds that
has a non-typical movement.
Ours calls for what they
call jaunty movement, which--
it doesn't mean sloppy or wrong.
It just means that they
aren't moving forward
with their head
down with really,
like, this incredible
purpose and drive.
They're sort of swaggering,
for lack of a better word.
So let me have the other--
let me have the other leash.
So for our breed, and
again, for some other breeds
where maybe the
standard is calling
for a non-typical
movement, you might not
want to be actually
stabilizing them that way
and pulling the leash tight.
So on a grown up
bull terrier, this
is the way I would show the dog.
Come here.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Daph-- I know.
I'll give you a cookie
in a minute, OK?
I would just have a loose leash.
Come on, girl.
[WHOOSHING SOUND] Dee Dee.
So I would just--
again, this is a fully-trained,
adult dog, moves well.
Good girl!
I'm just going let
her do her own thing.
And it's a much more typical
movement for our breed.
But again, all the puppies
I start them the same way,
which is with a little collar
like that that fits just behind
their ears where I can stabilize
them and help them until
they're able to either go on
a long leash, or whatever,
depending on the breed,
however they're--
they're going to be going.
OK.
Good girl.
Leash position-- you
might have noticed that--
come here, [KISSING SOUNDS]----
that, when I--
so I covered that, the drape.
Hey, Dee, I know, I know.
She's like, man, this broadcast
is getting really long
and I'm not getting food.
Come here.
So I talked about
the drape, which is,
again, you know, this is a
really nice bull terrier look.
And then we also
have the leash here.
Now what I do with this--
oh, now my hand's greasy
so I can't get it.
So what I do with this,
and this is typical,
what you'll see a lot, is
when you have it on right--
I'm sorry, Sweetie, but you
have to wear the clothes.
When you have it on right
and you put it right here
and you just pull
it just tight enough
and go like-- it will
stay right there.
That's going to stabilize
it and you'll only
have to use two
fingers to hold it.
And turn?
Oh, turn her around?
Yes, please.
Yeah, so they can see that.
Stay.
So see that?
So that's going to
stay right there.
And again, I'm
not pulling on it,
but I have just enough tension--
I mean, you know,
this is something
that people go crazy about.
Oh, your leash is hanging.
I don't care about
the hanging leash.
As long as it's not hitting my
dog, I'm totally OK with it.
So you see that.
Now what you would have
to do if you had a shorter
breed, because you don't want to
pull the dog off a balance, OK?
But I can just keep this right
here and she's tall enough,
but if I had a
short dog, I would
need to have it like this.
And I'd probably need to have
my hand more over the dog,
just because if she was super
short she wouldn't-- she
wouldn't be out in front of me.
I'd be over her all the time.
And that's what they do
with the Martingales.
And some people find that
doing this on the down
and back is better.
I have not found that to be so.
I find this to be
a very good way
to stabilize the dog at
all times with under here.
What's your experience, Karen?
We just use whatever the
dog moves better with.
Some of them do move better--
With it behind?
Up top, yes--
Yep.
Yep.
--rather than below.
Do you find with
the Vizslas you like
to have a little bit
of pressure so they
have something to lean in?
Or do you do move
them on the loose?
Yeah, same thing.
How do you feel it
changes their movement?
Just gets them like up--
up into the--
Up into the-- so, yes,
moving more correctly.
They're not as stressed.
They're not as-- yeah, yeah.
So it works really well.
So, oh, excuse me.
And we don't powder
our dogs or anything.
OK.
All right, so we've had
enough of you, Daphne.
You've done very
well, thank you.
We're going to have Mina out.
Now, come on, go see Kim.
Goodbye.
No, no.
Thanks for shopping.
Go, go, no, no, you're you done.
That was your turn.
So I'm going to show
you how we have started
training Mina and Bijoux.
So I'm going to assume--
this whole demonstration
assumes that your dog at least
has loose leash walking.
And if your dog doesn't
have-- in other words,
that if you walk, your dog
is going to walk next to you
and not pull and go
all over the place.
If you don't have that,
go back to my book
"When Pigs Fly" or
"Puppy Culture"--
we give instructions.
They need to be able to just
walk by your side on a leash.
And then your task just becomes
to teach them head position
and to hold a steady pace.
So hi, I know,
it's very exciting.
So here comes Mina.
So all right, so let's just grab
a bunch of these, [INAUDIBLE]..
So now-- so Mina's thing--
because Mina is not like a
huge food dog, and her thing
is that she really wants
to move looking at me.
Come here, sweetheart.
Come here.
All right, you're doing fine.
I know, I know.
You're just killing
yourself, here.
Here.
She really wants to move with
her head turned toward me.
And so why don't we want
to have dogs looking at us?
I mean, not that I
really care much, but--
Mina, can you come,
Mina, come here.
All right, I'll take the toy.
I know, you're a toy dog.
I know you're a toy dog.
Come with me.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Come.
Because, when they--
when they turn their head
to the side, especially a
heavy, stiff-bodied breed
like a bull terrier,
it's going to tend
to throw this leg out this way.
And even the best moving
dog-- and I probably have some
footage I can show
you when I edit this--
even the best moving dog
when they turn their head
like that, they're going
to throw this leg out.
They'll put it down in the
right place, in the sense
that the footfall
will be correct.
But you're still
going to see that
almost like windmill action
when they're looking at you.
Now I'm going to
go crazy about it,
that the dog might look at me
a little bit to start out with.
But the point is,
that's our goal
is to get the dog traveling
with their head forward.
So for starters,
what I want you to do
is take a totally loose leash.
Let me just put this-- hold on.
I'm going to take this
away, because that's way
too much for you.
I'm going to put it right here.
That's for, OK?
So totally loose leash.
So I'm going to just
walk until she trots.
And then, here, I'm going
to throw it down there.
Now the reason-- now
everyone's probably worried.
Oh, my god, the dog
is going to sniff.
See her want to look at me?
Come here, sweetheart.
Come on.
Good girl.
Nice job.
So I'm throwing it forward
for her, and I'll explain why
in a minute.
Do you have to pee-pee?
I know, it's very
exciting down here.
Come here.
Yes, good girl.
Nicely done, come on.
Yes, good girl, nicely done.
So I'm not worried about
anything except that I
get that head moving forward.
Yes!
Good.
Good, good, good.
Now this dog is not
wanting to sniff a lot.
[CLICKING]
Good.
I don't do a lot of clicking
for the head to move forward.
And the reason why
is that it tends
to get the dog looking
back at you a lot.
Come here, Meens.
But your first step
is just, again,
if your dog is trained
loose leash walking,
you're just totally loose leash.
Come on, let's go.
Yes, good girl!
And again, with her, I'm
throwing it forward and down.
Because A, she's
not a big sniffer.
And B, she really wants to
turn and look at me a lot.
So that's why we're
doing it that way.
With another dog, that
might not be the strategy.
And in fact, Bijoux
is the example
of why that would
not be the strategy.
So now, I recommend that you do
a number of sessions of that.
Come here.
So now once you have that, and
again, what I just did right
there is a training session.
I would put the dog away.
That's enough.
That's how much I train are
just those couple minutes.
Come here.
So now I'm going to give
her her collar in position.
And again, she's going
to want to look at me.
And I'm still marking it.
I mean, even though I have
a clicker, I'm saying yes
and she understands
the verbal marker.
So pup-pup.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Come on.
Yes, good girl!
Nicely done.
So I'm starting to get that
head forward that I like.
Really nice movement, Meens.
Come here.
Yes, good girl!
Yes, that's really good.
Come on, Meens.
Come, Meens.
Yes, good girl.
Yes!
Good girl!
Really nice.
Good girl!
You're doing so good, I'm
going do the fancy leash
on the other side.
Come here.
Come on.
It's harder that way, huh?
Yeah, it's harder that way.
She's not ready for the fancy
leash on the other side.
You're a good girl.
You're a good girl.
OK.
So you see how that
works with her--
how that's beginning to work.
So now-- hi, baby girl.
Hi, baby girl.
You did really, really, well.
Do you want to show more?
You're doing so good, OK.
So again, she's pretty feral.
I mean, you know, like if I
took her to a show right now,
it would be wild.
She would not be all
that well-behaved.
But you know, we just have
to keep working on it.
You just can't-- it's not like--
Rome wasn't built in a day.
And it takes-- it takes years
to make a dog a true show dog,
so--
Question.
Yes?
How old are the puppies when
you start them in the ring--
start training them in the ring?
Can that person flush
that question out?
Meaning to say, when
I start training them
on a lead to show?
Or when I take them to a show
and train them in the ring?
Do they mean--
I believe, just
training in the ring.
Well, it starts at
four weeks with us.
I mean, five,
actually, five weeks.
It starts at five weeks.
Killer free stacks,
we introduce the leash
and just walking on the leash.
And then I would
say real gaiting,
you know, maybe, probably
like 8 to 10 weeks we
would start that.
You know, certainly
by 12, 16 weeks
we're definitely hot on it.
I mean, by 16
weeks, 12, 16 weeks,
we're definitely, definitely
training them in movement
already.
So OK.
So you're going to show a
little bit more, OK, Meens?
Good girl.
Good girl.
So come here and let
me let you-- let me
let you show a little bit more.
So now, I'm condensing
months of training down
into one single session.
So you would spend
many sessions just
having them look forward,
look forward, look forward.
And by the way, you know, I
wouldn't worry too much if they
look at you, or if they look
back at you when you click,
because to be
honest, anybody who
has trained a dog
in obedience knows
it's pretty hard to get
a dog to really travel
looking at you all the time.
I mean, their
natural tendency is
going to be to look ahead
and not look at you.
You have to train
them to look at you.
So it's really not difficult
to just sort of pick out
the times when they're
looking forward
and just click and
treat them ahead.
So once you've gotten that,
they're moving forward,
and then you've
added the leash--
you know, you've done
it on a loose leash,
then you've added the
leash a little bit,
now you can start moving
around in a circle.
And come here, Meens.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Come
here, girlfriend.
And so here's what happens when
you move in a circle is that--
come here-- as I'm
moving away, I'm
going to be moving slower
than as I get to the corner
and I want to start rounding.
Because I have to, as I come
kind of around the corner,
I'm going to have to speed up,
because she's on the inside.
And as you start gaining ground
on them and moving faster,
they get really excited
and they're going to tend
to jump around and not--
you know want-- they're going
to look at you and stuff.
So you really have to
pay special attention
to reinforcing them for keeping
their head down and moving
forward on the corner.
So let's, I'll show you.
She'll probably demo
it-- how that works.
Come here.
You ready?
Come on, let's go.
See, she wants-- see how
crazy she wants to get?
Because I have to go
faster around the corner.
Good girl.
That's very good.
Yes.
Yes.
Come on.
Yes!
Good girl.
See that was a nice corner.
She was starting to get that.
Come on, let's do that again.
So you have to teach this piece.
That is, because
it excites them.
Come here, sweetheart.
Come on.
Mee.
[KISSING SOUNDS] I know.
You'd rather play with the toy.
So this is good.
Nice!
Good job!
See how she's
beginning to get that?
I mean, you know,
it's not perfect,
but it's something
that you really
have to work on and reinforce.
Because when you
start moving faster,
they're going to start
getting all excited.
Good, good girl.
All right.
So now I want to bring
out Bijoux and just--
as a compare and
contrast kind of thing--
to show you the difference in my
strategy with training Bijoux,
because she has a different
set of circumstances.
Here we go.
Thank you.
Yes.
What is the question?
[INAUDIBLE] asked if you
take Mina to shows anyway,
even though she may not be--
Oh, yeah.
That's a really great question.
So yeah.
So somebody said, well, do
you take Mina to shows anyway
even though she may
not be ready to show?
And absolutely, I do.
So I take both girls.
For what it's worth,
this is what we do,
is that all our show puppies--
I should say the bitches.
The dogs, sometimes we
really will hold out.
But the bitches,
they go to sweeps.
I mean, even if I keep
two litter-mate sisters,
or I have--
I'll compete against
myself, I don't care.
I want them to have those
early experiences at the shows.
When they start being arguably
even a little competitive,
which at 11 months old Bijoux
has already gotten a major so--
at a specialty show, so
she is somewhat-- you know?
I still don't think
I'm going to finish her
like that at 11 months old.
But I won't show against myself
anymore with the two girls.
But I always bring
Mina, because I
want her to get used
to the whole experience
so that when I do walk
in the ring with her,
the only thing that
I'm working against
is just actually
being in the ring,
that she's so used to
the whole show thing.
Bijoux, your time has come.
You can take off her collar
and just let her come in.
Just take it right off.
You ready, Mom?
Yes, you are.
Bij, you ready?
OK.
OK.
OK.
Here you are.
I know.
Here you are.
And I don't know how you
got that chalk on your back,
but you did.
You got some dirt on your back.
OK.
So now Bijoux presents a little
bit of a different picture.
And I'm going to show you.
Right away you're
going to see it.
Come here, sweetheart.
Let's get some of these.
And by the way, when I
do free stack training,
I tend to want to use--
ow, ooh.
I tend to want to use pieces of
jerky or large pieces of bait
that I can just hold and
break off little pieces.
But with this, it's
different, because I
want to be able to throw--
I want to have ready
pieces to throw.
So I'm going to just show you--
come here-- her movement.
And I think you'll see, I
think, if she-- if she's
true to her usual form,
she'll show you why
I do this differently with her.
OK, come here.
Give me these.
So all right, come here.
Now you're going to
have a regular collar,
because you already know this.
All right, come here.
Come on.
[KISSING SOUNDS] You ready?
Let's go.
Yeah, there she's
showing you right now.
Yeah, there it is.
So Bijoux is a sniffer.
Good girl.
She's got a good nose.
Yeah.
Yeah, I know.
She's got a good nose.
So Bijoux is a sniffer.
So, yes. that's what I
said, Bijoux is a sniffer.
Say, that's me.
So my strategy with her
is going to be different.
I'm not going to throw
the food ahead of her,
because I do not want
to actually shape
her to be looking ahead
and down that way.
Here, have a cookie here.
We have a saying
in dog training,
which is you click
or mark for behavior
and treat for position.
So with both girls, I'm going
to mark the exact same thing.
All right, sit-- just
relax for a minute, please.
Come here.
I know, you're so rambunctious.
I know.
She's like, I've been
waiting all day for this.
Now, just hang a
little while longer.
So you click for the behavior.
And in both cases, the
behavior was exactly
the same-- the head forward,
straight, driving, nice pace
forward.
We're going to click for that.
But in Bijoux's
case, what I'm going
to do is I'm going to have one
piece of food in my right hand,
I'm going to do
with my right hand--
it's a little tricky
because I have to actually
also click with my right hand--
and hold my extra
food in my left hand.
And you'll see, I'm going
to feed her straight out
in front of her head, OK?
So come here, Mom.
Come here.
Come here.
All right, we'll do it this way.
Come here.
Oh, oh, oh, oh, oh,
you're a big pain.
I have to put it
all in one hand.
OK.
I changed my mind.
I'm going to put the
clicker in my left hand.
So let's go.
Come on.
[CLICKING] Oops, I didn't--
that was a mistake click.
[CLICKING] Good girl.
Come on.
Come on.
So anytime that that
head is not down,
it may take her a little
while to lift it up.
But any time, if I can get it to
come up and not be sniffling--
the head is still down a
little bit more than I'd like--
[CLICKING] there!
Good girl.
But I'm going to try and
feed her as much as possible
in front.
Come on.
[CLICKING] Yes!
Good girl!
I don't want to feed
her looking back at me,
because I don't want
to encourage that.
[CLICKING] Nice!
Good girl!
So see how that's getting her
nose right out of the grass
right away?
Good girl.
Come on.
Yes!
And now, ideally, I'd
like her to travel
with her head a little higher.
Come on.
Yay!
That's doing so good!
That's good.
That's good.
Come on, Bee-Bee.
So now what I'm doing
is-- that's really good.
So she shaped down
pretty quick with that.
So she was sniffing,
sniffing, sniffing
and we got to lift up her head.
Here, you can play with
your toy a little bit.
Come on, you're a baby,
you can play with your toy.
So she shaped down
really quickly
to get her head
out of the grass.
And I think that is
testament to the fact
of how well shaping works.
That you really don't
need to correct it--
what's the matter?
Yeah, you really don't need to
correct it and be doing this.
And there's no--
I don't see any reason
why anybody needs
to do this in the showing.
I know it's hard to
believe that you never need
to correct a dog for sniffing.
But here's Bijoux
at 15 months old
showing at our
national specialty,
just eight weeks after
this broadcast aired.
She's clearly learned
to keep her head up,
and she's never been corrected
for putting her head down.
Even outdoors, where the
temptations are much worse,
you can see the Bijou's
learned to keep her head up.
Although I'm keeping the
leash short, it's not tight
and I'm not using it
to control her head.
Now, [TOY SQUEAKING] all
that having been said,
there are times when
you're in the show ring
and your puppy is just
going to want to sniff.
And you almost have to just
anchor your lead to your--
[TOY SQUEAKING] you have to
anchor your lead to your hip
and just go and just almost
tether them to keep them
from sniffing.
But at that point, you
need to say to yourself,
OK, I need to go
home and train more.
That this is not--
this is not a fix,
this is not training.
This is not a solution, it's
management under the situation.
Yes, is that really good?
OK.
So again, to review,
Mina, I clicked
and I threw forward,
because she's not
foraging in the ground.
So I clicked for the behavior
of looking straight ahead,
fed her ahead of her to keep
her going straight ahead,
because her big thing is
she wants to look at me.
This dog wants to put
her nose in the ground.
So I'm going to click
for the same exact thing
that I clicked for with Mina,
which was going forward,
but I'm going to treat out of
my hand, and as much as possible
right in front of her.
It's tricky with all the
stuff that you have to carry,
probably easier if you
don't use a clicker,
if you just use a verbal marker.
Yeah.
Thank you for that
serenade there.
OK.
Let's take some questions.
You can play with that.
At what age do you start
showing a female or a male,
not just in sweepstakes?
Well, I always enter them
in the regular classes
if I enter in sweeps.
And the male, I mean,
you know, it really
depends on the maturity level.
I think people will,
just my opinion,
not hold it against
a bitch as much.
Can you guys hear me over that?
Or is that too loud?
I think people will
not hold immaturity
against a bitch as much.
And you can bring her back once
her ribs spring and no one's
going to say, oh,
she didn't have--
she didn't have substance.
But a dog, unfortunately, they
expect the dogs to come out
like a million bucks.
And it's very hard
to live that down.
So to be honest, yeah, I do
wait longer with the dogs.
I do.
I mean, I wait
until I really feel
that they're almost competitive
before I show the dogs.
Yeah.
What about you, Karen?
Do you feel that way?
Exactly the same way, yes.
Yeah.
It's a shame, but it's
just the way it is.
Oh no no, no no, do not run off.
Come here.
Do not-- here, there you go.
You can give that to Kim.
I think we have
some more questions.
OK.
We can take some questions.
And then I do have a little
bit more to show you.
Can you put a regular leash on
and just hold her over there?
It's easier than having
to deal with her.
Easier for me, that is.
Not for you.
Oh, no, lea-- oh, OK.
Well, you could
have left that on.
It's OK, it's OK.
So the questions?
Go ahead, Karen.
Yeah, I do.
Do you bring a
clicker in the ring?
Do I bring a clicker?
Do you bring a clicker
in the ring with you?
No.
No, you can't do that.
Look, I mean, the clicker is--
should only really be
used in the beginning
to point out to the dog what
the correct behavior is.
And once you've shaped
the correct behavior,
you lose the clicker
very quickly.
And it's actually
a great question.
And I meant to say
it, and I probably
didn't emphasize it enough, is
that I lose the clicker very,
very quickly with this.
I probably only do one,
between one and three sessions,
actually, with the clicker.
And more likely one
with the clicker.
Because my dogs
are pretty operant.
They pick it up quickly.
And once they've got it, I
also have a verbal marker,
and I just don't
even use the clicker.
And then when you go in
with the ring, you know,
you really can't
bring a clicker in.
I don't know if-- legally
you could, but you wouldn't.
And you know, you shouldn't.
I mean, if you're in a
place where you still
need the clicker to
get the behavior,
you're not ready to
show the dog yet.
I want to show you
one more thing.
And actually, I can
show it with her.
OK.
I think I can show it with her.
I might have to have Daphne.
And you know what?
I think we actually--
Do you use a verbal
marker in the ring?
I do, yeah.
Well, OK, so the question
is, do I use a verbal marker
in the ring?
And I will use a verbal
marker in the ring.
But again, part
of the problem is
that when you use a
marker of any kind,
the dog feels that
the behavior is over.
That they are now
going to be entitled
to some kind of treat,
or reinforcer, or toy,
or whatever it is.
So again, you know, by the
time you get into the ring,
you can use encouragement,
you can mark,
certainly stacks and
things like that, you
should be feeding and
marking that because you
want to maintain that behavior.
But with the gait,
you kind of want
to have gotten it to the
point where you don't really
have to be marking it anymore.
Because if you're
marking it, the dog
is going to stop and want food.
And that's a great question.
And also, what about treats?
What treats [INAUDIBLE].
Right.
I mean, you know, this
is a big-- well, I mean,
this doesn't go so much
to movement as it does
to stacking, in that--
OK, so what happens
is, is that we
do kind of OK in training
as far as understanding
ratio of reinforcement.
That we have to
reinforce what we want.
So when the dog is stacked
right, you know, we feed them.
We keep doing that.
And then we get to a
show and what do we do?
We get the dog
just right and then
we don't feed them ever when
they're stacked up right.
And then we lure them and let
them nibble when they're wrong.
So they learn very quickly
not to stack right.
That when they
stack wrong they get
lured and they're allowed
to nibble on the food.
You must maintain the behavior.
So the judges are
only really going
to be looking at your
dog for a few seconds.
You have plenty of time, when
your dog hits that good stack,
you feed them.
You bait them, the judge
goes by, you feed them.
You have to reinforce
the behavior.
You have to maintain
it with something.
People bring puppies
and they just--
I don't know if they're nervous
or they're just not able,
really, to multitask
mentally that way.
But it's something you need to
work on, that you are always
training your puppy.
And again, you know, I
mean in a lot of countries,
I believe in Europe,
they can't even
get a championship till the
dog is what, 18 months old?
Maybe Margo, or
somebody from Europe
is going to write in on that.
It's ridiculous to take
a six-month-old puppy
and just expect
them to be perfect,
demand it, and think you're
going to finish the dog.
I mean you may, you may.
But it's a bonus if
you do finish the dog.
And we have a couple
good questions.
Yeah, a couple of
good questions, OK.
I know it's a bit
off subject, but what
do you do with a dog that
keeps jumping on you even
in the ring?
No, it's not at all
off the subject.
I mean, you saw
Mina jumping at me.
And you do exactly what I
did, is you just ride it out.
0's and 1's, like I
always say, 0's and 1's.
Dog training is not
about corrections,
it's not about right and
wrong, it's about 0's and 1's.
1's are things that produce
a result for the dog,
as in a treat or a toy
or whatever they like.
0's are 0's.
Nothing.
So if the dog
jumps at me, I just
keep moving along until the dog
isn't jumping at me, I mark it,
and I give food.
They figure it out very quickly.
I think I probably do have
footage of the first time
that that dog
showed in the ring.
And she was a bronc.
I mean, but now they're great.
So it's just-- it's
a question of not
expecting it to be all perfect
the first time you show.
It's a process over time.
And actually, you
know, I'm going
to say something a
little bit out of order.
It was really going to be more
what I was going to close with,
but it's so apropos to this
question, which is that you
can-- don't be in a hurry.
Take your time.
Even sporting breeds
that, you know--
I had a cattle dog, I had two
cattle dogs that I showed.
And you know, cattle dogs
are shown all the way
at the end of a very long leash,
and the handler runs fast.
And that dog should be flying.
But even those dogs start as
puppies with your hand low
and the dog right next to you.
It doesn't happen overnight.
Take your time.
There's no substitute for time.
Let's talk about leash
handling for puppies.
Now, I talked about
how sporting breeds,
you're going to be-- the dog is
going to be way ahead of you,
you're going to
be running behind.
I mean, you've seen
the German shepherds.
They wear hot
pants and they run.
For puppies, and actually
for most of the dogs,
your leash should
be short but loose
and your hands should be low.
So what do I mean by that?
I mean that-- stand here, baby--
I'm right here.
I have a very short
leash on this dog,
but it's not tight
because my hand is low.
Well, what does this do?
This gives me the
most stabilizing
and control over the dog so
that she has very little play
to move side to side.
So when I move-- come on,
baby [KISSING SOUNDS]----
she actually-- come here,
sweetheart, come here.
Come on.
Come on, good girl!
Nice job.
Very well, done!
Come here.
Come here.
Good girl!
Beeda-beeda-beeda-bee.
And then I'll let out
a little bit for that.
But now, I want you to
contrast that to this.
If I have a tight
lead and it's long,
she can wobble all
over the place.
And this is what you'll see.
People will have a very
tight lead and it's long
and I have no control over
where this dog goes right now.
And I'm not saying that
you pull hard on the dog,
but just having it low but
loose does not choke the dog,
does not throw her off.
But it gives her that
little bit of stability
she needs to stay in line.
See this?
This is not tight.
See this?
Two fingers, that's what I
got right here with this dog.
Come here.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Come on.
Now watch, she'll pull
right out of my hands.
Yeah, I know.
She still wants to
put her head down.
Come here.
But I can literally just--
see, my hands are open so I can
close my finger--
Beej-- and I have
that much control.
But if your hand is
all the way up here,
you don't have that, OK?
So it actually is the same for
anything, any kind of training.
I mean, this is
the hardest thing
to get people to understand.
A loose lead, but
short and your hand
low, you have the most
control over the dog,
because you also
now have-- you know,
if your hand is all the
way up here, I mean,
you have no place to go with it.
If your hand is down here, you
can actually move her more.
I know.
You're such a good dog!
Let's see.
OK, so you know what I
want to do is show you
guys about how you should
be moving, how it works.
So good, good, good, good girl.
Good, good, good, good girl.
Can I do this with you?
I don't think I can.
Yeah, you're going to have to
hold her for a second, Kim.
Here she comes.
Just hang on to
her for a second.
OK, so movement-- your
movement in the ring.
And I'm going to do this
without a dog so you can see it.
So you'll notice
that handlers have
a very particular way that
they move and it's a heel/toe.
And generally speaking,
they'll start out just slowly
heel/toeing and then very
gradually ramp into it,
and then they do this kind
of like flat-footed heel/toe
movement as they run.
And I want to show it
to you on the side.
So you're going to be--
and again, it's a
heel/toe, heel/toe.
And the reason that
they do that that way is
because if you're up on
the balls of your feet,
you're going to see that
I bounce a lot more.
So if I do this, see how
I'm [LAUGHING] bouncing?
I mean, I'm laughing because
it seems silly to me,
because I would never
show a dog that way.
But you want to stay smooth
yourself, as much as possible.
So the heel/toe, you can
start walking this way.
And then you should start out--
when you start-- you know what?
Bring me Daphne.
I'm sorry Bijoux,
but but you're a pain
and we don't want [LAUGHING].
So you should start out
walking, walking, walking.
And then just only break
into a run when you have to.
But again, it's
going to be heel/toe.
And it's like they
say, a ballroom
dancer, ballroom dancers say,
the floor is your best friend.
So you want to
keep your feet low
and you want to
roll off your feet
so you have as smooth as
possible a gait going around,
as opposed to--
you don't want to be--
you don't want to be bouncing
up on your toes like this.
You want to be down on
your heels like this.
So I'll bring Daphne
and I'll show you.
And especially with puppies,
when you're starting out,
you want to start
out just rolling
very slowly off your feet.
If they amble, if
they don't gait right,
that's not a problem, but you
want to slowly work into it.
Come on.
This is the last thing.
All right, Daph, so
let's do a real one.
Yes.
You have to have-- she
says, if it's real,
you have to have a cookie.
So here we go.
[KISSING SOUNDS]
So you ready, babe?
So let's show them.
So if I were going
to go off, you ready?
Good girl.
Good girl.
Nice job.
So now I'm going to show
how when we go around
I'm going to accelerate
around the turn.
And if she remembers
her stuff, she's
going to keep moving forward.
Come here.
[KISSING SOUNDS] You ready?
Good girl!
Good girl.
Yes.
That's very, very good.
Very, very good.
OK, I have some questions?
That's all I have
to show you today.
Any questions?
Yes.
Actually, you know what?
Would you bring out
to Mina one more time?
I'm going to take
some more questions
and I'm going to
show one more thing.
Yeah, I have a bonus thing
I'm going to show you.
Just Mina.
I'll take some questions.
OK, this is also a bit
off topic, but how would
you go about building
confidence during examination,
specifically dealing with
what I call contortionists
during an examination?
Yeah.
Oh, you know, I
wish-- unfortunately,
we covered that last time.
And I am going to
be coming out with--
that DVD is going to be
available for purchase.
No, really.
It's her turn now.
You've had a turn.
But--
[BARKING]
--the best thing to do,
as far as the examination,
is "Attention is the
Mother of All Behaviors."
If you haven't seen that
yet, you should see it.
This is what we do
with all our puppies.
is we train them
to hold the stack
and hold the attention
on me even as they're
being touched by somebody else.
That is really the--
the best way to do it.
Is the attention is the
mother of all behaviors.
Disruptions are cues for
attention is our motto.
So they learn that
when hands go on them,
it's just a cue to give
you more attention.
So come here Daphne.
I just want to
show-- because I just
want to demo this, how
it looks with a puppy,
again, because I don't
want people to expect
a lot of their puppies.
I want people to
understand that it
might-- it's a messy
process in the beginning.
You have to be able to accept
that shaping something,
it's like a lump of clay,
that you slowly shape it down.
It's not like it just--
Whoa!
You, Mina, take it easy.
Take it easy.
Whoa, whoa.
Mina bo Beans, OK.
So are you going--
are there more questions?
Yes, Jane.
What do you mean when
you say "finish the dog?"
Oh, why, goodness.
Thank you for asking
that question.
Finish means get
their championship.
Is that something
from Europe, I wonder?
Yes, finish is get
their championship.
Any other questions?
Come here, baby.
You're a good girl.
Oh, this is-- this
is a good question.
Do you train any differently
for showing inside on concrete
versus outside on grass?
Wow I don't-- I wouldn't
say I train any differently,
except for the fact that it's
always going to be harder
on grass just because there's
so much more good stuff.
I mean, there's goose
poop and whatever else.
There's going to
be-- hey, Meens,
do you want some cookies?
See this dog does not love food.
Yes.
Here, Meens.
You know, the only thing
I want to say, though,
about-- go ahead and look
at the rest the questions.
But the only thing I want to
say about training on indoors
is that if you are ever shown
all day at a breed show that's
indoors on mats, you
know how your feet hurt
at the end of the day?
Your dog's feet
kind of hurt too.
So it can be, their gaiting
can get less good, especially
like if they go to the group.
Or like sometimes we'll have
independent specialties where
it's a show in the
morning, you do the group,
and then you have
a show at night.
And by the last class,
I mean at night,
your feet hurt, the
dog's feet hurt,
they just they
don't move as well.
But that's just more a
fact of life than it is--
more questions?
OK.
Come hear, Mee.
So, Mee, I just want to
show people how we do this.
Come here.
Come here, Mina.
I'm just going to show
people how we do this
and then we're all done, because
you're such a good little girl.
So again, come here, Mimi.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Ready?
So see how I'm not going to--
oh that's awfully good.
So you see how I'm going to
let her carry me on the speed.
I'm not pushing her at all.
I'm going to start
with just walking.
Come here, Mee.
Come here.
Good girl.
Come here.
Come here.
Look, look, look,
look at what I have.
Look what I have.
Look what I have.
So I'm going to start
with just walking.
And then as she trots, I'm
going to just go and catch up
with her.
Good girl.
One more time.
So I'm going to roll
off my feet till I--
that's awfully good.
Now that's a really nice trot!
I really liked that, Mina.
That was really good.
I'm out of cookies.
So again, you see how I'm just
going to roll slowly into it.
I'm not going to do a
shocking, quick move.
Next time, we're going to
talk more about ring strategy
and how to make sure that
when your judge is looking
at the dog you are presenting
the dog in the correct gait.
But for now, for the
training, we just
want to make sure that we
were training it and not--
not startling the dog
with a sudden movement.
Yes, Karen.
Jane, if a dog does both
performance and conformation,
how do you teach her to
know which way to walk--
Right.
--on the handler's side
or moving out in front?
Wow, that's a great question.
And you know, there's a
couple different things--
context.
So this leash becomes a
cue for doing breed stuff.
And a regular
leash becomes a cue
for doing performance
like obedience or rally.
Plus the fact that--
come here, Mina.
Do you want to
show some healing?
So if I'm going to do
breed stuff-- come here.
Come here with the cookies.
Yes, I know you don't love them.
So this is my posture,
and I want you
to-- you can see it
better from the front.
Mimi, come here, darling.
So ultimately,
this is how I look.
So I'm going to be, first
of all, my shoulders are
open to the dog somewhat,
because I'm watching her
as I'm going along, and my
hand is low, and I'm like that.
Now if I were going to be
doing obedience-- come here,
sweetheart-- this is
what it looks like.
And she really hasn't
done a lot of obedience,
but this is what
obedience looks like--
come here, babe-- which is
something completely different.
Come here, Mum.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Sit down.
Sit.
Can you sit?
Good, stay.
So this is obedience.
Mee-- Mina-mee.
Good girl.
Good girl, Mee.
She's like, wow, yes, good girl.
She's just a baby
puppy, but it's
not-- it's not confusing
to them, at all.
And especially if you click and
treat them a couple of times
for doing healing.
Come here.
They're completely-- like,
dogs are much, much better
at picking up contextual
cues than we give them credit
for, because just
being who we are,
having language and a lot of
things that dogs don't have,
we are not as tuned into
contextual clues the way
that they are.
Come here.
[BARKING]
Mee.
[KISSING SOUNDS] Are
there more questions?
Mimi.
Mina is like, I just
want to get critters.
Let's heal.
You want to heal a little bit?
Mimi.
[CLICKING] Good girl.
Nice job.
Good girl.
That's it.
Oh wow, that was really fun.
I hope you guys enjoyed
it as much as I did.
OK, goodbye.
Goodbye.
Mina says, goodbye.
Goodbye.
[KISSING SOUNDS]
Thank you, Karen.
Thank you, Kim.
[KISSING SOUNDS] You're
such a good girl.