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Hi, everyone. Welcome back. Episode 2 of season 2 of "Demand to Win Puppies." It's kind of a treat that we have in store for you because we have three puppies available. And the first puppy has been trained quite a bit in stacking, the second puppy hasn't been trained much, and the third puppy, not at all. So when we get to the hand stacking, you're going to get to see the whole progression of how we go through it. OK. Here comes Daph. So let's talk about this. So your ultimate criterion-- and I think this is where a number of questions came in-- is that you want the dog to be up on their toes, alert, and rolled over their front, and you want the topline to a good. It's not so much about back foot placement as it is the topline looking good. So let me show you again. So stand. So do you see how Daphne-- what we call her prosternum, the front of her. This part of her here-- is forward and her leg bones are at right angles to the ground? Posting, which is a very common thing, is when they lean back on those front, like that. That's a really good demo of posting. Here you can see how a good stack, with the dog rolled over her front, creates a nice topline that flows smoothly from head to tail in one piece. When the dog posts, you can see how it creates a dip behind the withers and makes an ungainly topline that does not flow smoothly from head to tail. The same dog can appear to be straighter in the shoulder when her head is lifted and her weight is shifted back. It can be for a lot of reasons but, usually, it's incorrect bait handling. Like do you see how I'm holding this bait right in front of her and it's causing her to push back on-- she wants to sit down. It's causing her to push back on those front legs as opposed to-- and I'm going to reset her because it's easier to get it that way. Stand. If I use my bait correctly, I bring my bait in-- good girl. Watch. I bring it up and then I bring it back down. So that brings the head up and over herself. Good girl. I know you smell it. Good girl. There's some critters out there. She's like, I just have to take a sniff at the critters in the woods. So, again, incorrect. I know. She wants to sit. Come here, sweetheart. Come on. OK. OK. Good girl. You can have that. I know. So incorrect, posting back, bait too close. Correct, pulled forward. Come here. Stand up. Good girl. Good girl. The front's good, the back's a little stretched but that's OK. Just so you can see the difference. That the posting is when they rock back and they push their feet out and, usually, that's when you're up too close in their face and not pulling the bait out and over. So the three mistakes that you can make with your bait is this. One, is baiting up too high. I want you to see what that does to her shoulder assembly. I'm going to have to probably hold her up a little bit because she's-- if I have her head up like this, see how these bones-- which should have a good angle-- look like they become straighter? These bones, which should slope back this way and slope back this way, look like they're straighter. Again, compare and contrast. Come here. I'm going to have to reset her. Once you have a bad stack, it's kind of hard to make it go good again. It's easier to reset it. You see how different, how much more angle she looks like she has in her shoulder, there? Oops, sorry. [LAUGHS] So the second thing that people will do wrong is that they'll bait forward, and pull this way, and get this kind of look on the neck. That gets the dog's head stretching forward instead of up and over. Now, I mean, there could be times when you want to bait the head a little low, but if you're here, you're going to get the head stretching forward. Come here. Stand. You want to show it to her, raise your hand up, and then bring it down. And just incidentally, your timing on this is going to be this. We'll talk more about this in coming episodes, where we really get into ring strategy, but your timing on this is going to be-- as the judge is just about to come to you, you're going to have their head up and looking at you this way. And then, as the judge comes, at the last minute, you're going to bring the head down because you only get that to look good for so long and then it starts looking sloppy. Good girl, Daphne. That was very, very well done. The only other thing that I really, really want to emphasize is that you do need a breed mentor to look at your dog, evaluate it, and tell you what the best stack is for your dog. So what I'm showing you on Daphne is she's a generically well-made dog and a breed that has a pretty generic breed standard for good angulation in front and behind. That can be different, depending on the breed. There can be differences in the way that you present the dog. And your dog may not be as well-made as Daphne so you may have to make compensations for it. But really, it takes someone who understands your breed, and the virtues, and strengths, and weaknesses of your dog to help you and be honest with you. Because you, a lot of times-- especially if you're beginning-- are not going to be able to see that. And sometimes, even if you're experienced, it really just helps to have someone look at the dog and give an honest evaluation of it. It's indispensable. Oh, and I just also want to say that there is nothing that I have taught you, at all, in the last episode, in this episode, or in any episode that is particular to Bull Terriers and is not going to apply to your dog. Everything is going to apply to your dog, you can use it. There might be some extra things that you need to know as far as presentation, but there's nothing that I'm telling you here that you actually would do differently. You just might do a little more. The technique would be the same but you might position the dog a little differently. You're never going to position a dog to post in the front. The front is always going to be the same. There's not any breed that you would not set up that way in the front. The rear angulation can vary, so that can be different depending on your breed. The front angulation can vary, too, but you're always going to want to stack them so they're rolled over their front that way. So now, between last session and this session, you should have a pretty good idea of the picture you want. And now I'm going to show you how to train it. So shaping, just generically, again, this is how shaping works. You pick something-- what we call a criterion-- something, and you start clicking, or marking, that. So last time, in our last series, our puppies were tiny, baby puppies and the very first episode-- I don't-- were they five or six weeks old. All we did was click them for standing still. All we wanted was stillness. I didn't care where the feet were, I didn't care what was happening as long as they were all four feet standing and still for a fraction of a second, I was going to click-- or mark, if you don't want to use a clicker-- and feed that. All I cared about. Once the puppy gave me the subjective impression of understanding that-- once the puppy appeared to me to be saying, oh, yeah. I'm all over this, and it was like freeze-frame, I stopped clicking just that. Well, let me just say, now I had a choice. I need to move the story forward, I need the next level and what I chose was duration. I chose it. Now I want that puppy to have one second of duration. I could have chosen something differently just as easily. I could have chose well, I want to pick just the front feet in the right place, or the rear feet in the right place, or the head position. I could have picked anything, but I picked duration and I'm going to tell you why in a minute. But suffice it to say, it could be anything. So I picked duration. So now I want to count to one. I want to be able to count to one before that puppy releases. And at first, the puppy doesn't get it and they're going to try other stuff. I mean, because if you have this understanding with them that they get clicked for standing still and then you stop, there's what looks almost like a frustrating burst of activity where they're trying different things like, come on, come on, come on. We had an understanding. How about this? How about that? They're going to offer you different things. And at some point in that flurry, they're going to stand still for that one second that you want and you've got to find it and click it. That's your next approximation now-- what they call your next approximation. And now, if your puppy is hip to the game, they're going to get that right away and they're going to say, OK, I know what it is. It's stand still for a second. Now you can click that. Then when that, again, is very clear to you that the puppy understands it, you can cut it off and wait for two seconds. Now again, I'm using the example of duration as my first criteria. In fact, that is what I use but it could be anything. With my puppies here, when they get a little older, I click for front foot position. I get a little duration on it and then once I have that, I click for back foot position. OK. So I cut off the front, I go to the back. That sounds bad. [LAUGHS] I cut off clicking for the front and I go to the back. So why do I start with duration as my first criteria? This whole thing is called free shaping. OK. And it assumes that the dog is what we call operant. That they understand that they can offer you different behaviors and get rewarded for it. That they can attempt variations on a behavior and get rewarded for it. Dogs that we raise are operant because we start at four weeks to make them operant. Not every dog is that operant. So some dogs are going to take a little longer to catch on to this game but once they've caught on to this game-- and this is really important-- the absence of reinforcer is a cue for them to enter into this, what we call, extinction burst. The absence of reinforcement is a cue for them to start offering you more stuff. So my first order of business, with small puppies, is I teach them duration as a criterion. Because if they don't understand that doing something longer is a variation on that thing, they're just going to start having happy feet, and running around, and being restless, which I think a couple of people last time said that they had that problem with their dogs. And as a dog trainer, it's a common problem that I see. It's one of the most common problems that I see with shaped behaviors, is that people have not laid in duration as a criterion. If you want to understand free shaping-- my book, "When Pigs Fly"-- I have a whole chapter on free shaping. I explain exactly the technologies of how it's done. Also our DVD on attention's and behavior, which I highly recommend for any show dog, gives a very good video breakdown from my seminars that will show you how we shaped levels of eye contact, which essentially substitutes standing still for eye contact. It's the same thing. And it will show you how we shaped a level and cut it off, shaped a level and cut it off, shaped a level and cut it off. We started adding duration and then we added distractions. Great to do for any dog, especially show dogs, but also great for you to learn how this process works. What we actually do here is a combination of shaping and capturing. So whereas I might free shape a dog, let's say, to put their feet in a box or something, just by if they lift their foot a little, I click it, they lift a little more, I click it. You know, that these would be my approximations. With show stacking, I'm more likely just to break the dog. Like if I want to get the back feet right, if they walk in and they're not right, I just break them and I come back and I just wait until-- I break them and I set them again, I break them and I set them again, I break them-- oh, and the third time, the feet happen to be in the right place-- and usually it's by accident the first time-- I click that. After a very short amount of time, they just start doing it. And what you're going to see with Bijoux is that she has, now, a kickback behavior where she'll come in sometimes and a foot will be back and you'll see her put it back. She knows. I never trained that. That is just from the process of continually capturing and shaping it. So it doesn't really have to be that hard, I guess, is what I'm saying. I'm making it sound like it's this big process but really it's just repetitions over time. OK. Let me-- yeah, I'll take her. Well, she's kind of losing her mind. So you can come in and be with me, Bijoux, because you're losing your mind but I still have to talk more. OK. So can you come here, and just be quiet for a minute, and sit with me? Can you do that? Because what I'm going to-- no, I will leave this here and I need my clicker. So what I'm going to demonstrate for you now is a hand stack. Now first, I'm going to do a couple of free stacks with her just to warm up because she's lost her mind because she had to wait and that was just not-- she just doesn't-- she's like, I just don't do waiting, mom. I just don't do waiting. She was going rear over tea kettle out there, literally. All right. Come here. Come here. Come on, darling. All right. Stand up. Good girl. Oh. OK. Yeah. [CLICK] See her kick her foot back? Now I know that that foot is not-- that other foot is not where I want it but I'm-- at the point where she is, I'm going to click that kick back even though the other foot wasn't where I wanted it to be. I want her to learn to fix herself. Stand. Yes. Good girl. I had my hand on the wrong end the clicker. You're too fast for me, baby. Come on. Aren't you beautiful? [CLICK] OK. Good girl. Now I don't mind that that leg is under her. I would accept that again. OK. [CLICK] Because it's on her off side. It looks OK. Here you go. So can we have some, just, quiet time for a minute? Can you come here? Yeah. I know you're ready. Let's talk a little bit about why you might need a hand stack as opposed to a free stack. I mean, if we have these great free stacks-- [BARK] why do we-- [BARKING AND GROWLING] why do we need to train a hand stack? Well, I think Bijoux's giving us a pretty good example, right now, is that puppies, especially-- hey! Come here. Puppies, especially, are liable to lose their mind in the ring. You can have everything all trained-- come here. Come here, come here, come here, come here. Come here. Come here. You can have everything all trained up-- no, no. Do not-- you and your grandmother. Do not just be helping yourself. You can have everything all trained up perfectly-- [BARK] but then-- what is it, Kim? Do you see what it is? It's a squirrel. It's a squirrel. I know. And they haven't trained her completely on a squirrel. And then a squirrel goes by. OK. So this is what happens, especially with a young dog and there's no point in losing your mind over it. Very unlikely that you're going to get to your show with a six-month-old puppy and it's going to do a perfect free stack outside so you're going to need a hand stack. You're going to need to be able to fall back on that. All right, you miss. The other reason is-- if you are so lucky to make it to the group ring, normally you have about this much room to stack and you're not always able to get into a perfect, beautiful free stack and get way off your dog. And then win shots. I mean, I have lot of ugly win shots with puppies because they don't do-- I can't hand stack them well. So we need to teach this, too. If you Google "hand stacking," or "hand stacking videos," or anything on how your hand stack your dog, the one phrase you're going to see over and over again is "control the head and you control the dog." "Control the head and you control the dog." Not to say that I don't agree with it but to say that I really think there's another way. You could consider another approach with puppies that actually might be able to help you create calmness and focus in the puppies rather than just controlling their head. You might actually be able to control their emotions a little bit by this technique that I'm going to show you. So I'm going to show you, really quickly. Let's see if she can calm down enough. First of all, again, I'm going to put this hot dog in my mouth. Come here. I'm going to stick some in my skirt and I'm going to do this. So let me wipe off my hands and I'm going to lose the clicker because I'm going to do this. OK. So what I'm doing is I'm bringing her in as close as possible to what would be good. I got grass in my mouth. Then I'm going to lean into her with my knee, I'm going to take this foot, put it in position. Again, I'm supporting her with my whole arm here. I'm not holding her by the head, I'm actually supporting her under here and here. Then I'm going to, again, I'm just holding her here-- I don't care if she turns her head a little bit-- and I'm going to move this foot this way, then I switch this way. And, yeah. Come here, sweetheart. I know I'm taking a really long time. And sometimes I'll even come over this way and here. But again, I'm keeping this firm pressure here. Here. Good girl. Good girl. That's pretty. OK. OK. OK. Good girl. That's good. She's getting that. So let's talk about what's going on here. Normally, most people will tell you this. Come here, Bij. But the first thing you got to do is to have the dog accept this, which they hate. Come here, baby. They don't want-- they want to turn and look at you. Now I've worked with her a lot on this so she'll accept me holding her face like this but you can see it's not something that she enjoys. No. Come here. Come here. Come here. OK. Let me explain why I do it this way. Here, take her for a minute. Let me tell you, right now, I'm getting hammered with sensory input. Bijoux's over there rolling around, Heidi's there, there are signs, there's a camera, I'm talking to you, there's another conversation going over there, there are birds, I got a tag in my shirt, the grass is kind of scratching on my knees, I can hear the highway. But yet as a "normal" human being, I am able to take all that information, all that sensory input, parse it out, and prioritize it. So that, right now, I'm talking to you and that's all that I am going to focus on. But there are people for which that's not true. They can't do that. If the highway is going, and the birds are chirping, and they have a tag in their shirt, and there's a lawn mower going, and they're trying to talk to you, all of those things take exactly the same amount of priority in their brain and it just becomes this overwhelming ocean of sensory input. This is known as sensory processing disorder and, at its least, it causes people to lose focus. And at its worst, it can actually cause anxiety or a panic attack. This sensory processing disorder, interestingly, is closely aligned with autism in that people who have autism will almost always suffer to some degree from sensory processing disorder. And at this point, you may wondering, what does this have to do with me, and my puppy, and show stacking? We're going to get there. Bear with me. Dogs are not people and they perceive the world very differently than people do but there is reason to believe that dogs see and experience the world more like people with autism. If you're familiar with Temple Grandin-- If you haven't read her work, you really should, it's very interesting. But if you have read her work, you're familiar with this concept, which she talks about a lot. But for this conversation, just suffice it to say that it is an accepted theory that dogs and autistic people tend to perceive the world the same way. Because of the perception similarities-- the similarities in the way that dogs and autistic people perceive the world-- the way a young dog or puppy experiences their first dog show is probably more like the way with a person with sensory processing disorder would experience it. They're just getting hammered with sensory input. There is the tents, the loudspeaker, the other dogs, the ring gates, you smell different, there's noise, sounds, smells. I mean, we're literally blind compared to dogs when it comes to smell. And all of this sensory input is just crashing in on the dog and I don't care how many dogs show tapes you play, I don't care how many handling classes you go to, you cannot approximate this experience. It's overwhelming for the puppy. And what you might perceive as disobedience, or willfulness, more likely is just a tsunami of sensory input crashing down on the puppy and he is unable to deal with it, even if he wanted to. As it turns out, deep body pressure, particularly applied laterally along the sides of the body, can lower respiration, lower heart rate, and lower blood pressure, in essence, truly calm people. In fact, deep body pressure is a standard part of occupational therapy for people with autism and sensory processing disorder. And I would argue that it can be a very useful intervention for young puppies and dogs, or any puppy, or dog experiencing sensory overload. So finally, back to stacking. It has been my observation that stacking using deep body pressure can calm and center puppies and dogs very much the same way that it can calm and center people. It's almost as if we're-- by using the deep body pressure-- we're giving them a physical focal point, which allows them-- they can lean into this physical focal point, and turn down the volume on all the extraneous noise around them, and focus at the task at hand for some dogs. For probably most dogs, it can help and at the very least, it's a tool that you should have in your tool kit. So I'm going to bring out Bijoux again and we're going to take another look. You can bring Bijoux out now. We're going to take another look at how we do this. Let's show. So the way I start is-- the first thing I do is I always start training this, this outside left foot, and I just concentrate on that so she gets the concept of me being able to place her foot. So I'm going to put pressure right into my knee and just give her some pressure there. She likes that. So then I'm going to do this and then I'm just going to lift it and put it down. [CLICK] Really well. And, again, I'm going to lift it and put it down. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. Now I want you to see how I'm almost squeezing here, just like this. This is literally what Temple Grandin put together for comforting people with anxiety or a sensory disorder, is a squeezebox where it's lateral pressure this way. So I'm squeezing her in, lifting, pressing. [CLICK] OK. So. OK. OK. I recommend that you practice just that for several sessions until, when you do this-- and just the one foot. Don't be going for all the feet. Don't get greedy. Just the one foot-- until you can just do this, and put it in, let go, do this-- [CLICK] and she holds it. OK. So gradually, in steps. You're going to, first, do this, put it down. [CLICK] Just click if she doesn't move it. Then you're going to do this, put it down-- and I don't care what the back is doing-- wait a second-- [CLICK] click. And then you're going to do this, put it down, put your hand in front once you get bait-- [CLICK] click. Then you're going to do this, put it down, take the bait over here-- [CLICK] click. What I just showed you, three or four training sessions at least. And your training sessions should be no more than two to three minutes maximum. I mean, this you could do for 20 seconds. It's just-- but you need it-- I know, it's boring but you're puppy, you have to pay attention, and wait. You have to help other people. She's like, let's show them the other foot. I like it because I get hot dogs. So I can't overemphasize how you really have to do this incrementally, and how you don't have to do it for hours, and how you really have to just get that concept. Now the reason why you want to start with that out-- first of all, you set that outside front first, usually. If you are going to set all four feet, that's the one you check first. But also because it's the easiest one in the sense that-- come here, darling. Come here. All right. And I always put the food in my mouth because if it's in the hand, that's a whole other thing. Then she has to ignore that. That's why I use hot dogs. It's the easiest one because it's the easiest one to get this nice pressure that you like. OK. [CLICK] Good. It's the easiest one to get this nice pressure that feels comfortable to her. Then once you've got that, you're going to switch to the-- now this gets trickier to click, but you're going to switch to the other hand. Now what I do here is I just help her by just cradling her a little, pressing her in, pushing her a little more this way, and then I just reach that hand down, and fix it-- [CLICK] and click. It's on my thumb, right there. If you have a soft clicker, that's-- so again, same deal. Just fix it-- [CLICK] click. Fix it-- [CLICK] click. And now again, same way until you can get to that. Good girl. OK. OK. She's breaking on her own because she's like, this is too long. I don't like to-- I'm a puppy. I don't have that much duration. So then you've got the front feet. OK. So now you're looking at-- you probably spent a couple weeks just getting that. Take your time. Rome wasn't built in a day. You want to have a true, almost conditioned, emotional response to this, that they love this. Oh, and the other thing I want to point out about this is that why this is an easy one to start with is that you're already leaning over them this way so the head's going to tend to want to stay forward. It's easier. [CLICK] Put it down here, rest, forearm here. [CLICK] Good girl. I'm giving her all that nice support instead of just holding her head. OK. I mean, you really don't have to hold her head, she's going to put it forward. Now we're going to go to the back. The back is a lot more complicated. Wait. OK. OK. [CLICK] Good girl. The back is a lot more complicated because they want to turn around and look at you. So again, slow process. Come here. Come here, girl. I know. This one's harder. All right. Let's fix this. Good girl. Now let's look at that back leg. So now again, I'm going to press here, and I've got a little pressure here, I'm going to pull this back here, put it down, and sometimes I'll put a little pressure on the back of the head, right here-- [CLICK] because unlike-- I just want to show you. Actually, here's what I want you guys to do. I want you all to-- OK. Here. OK. [CLICK] Good girl. I want everyone to take their hands, and go like this, and just think about how does this feel. And then I want you take your hand, and I want you to go like this, and think about how does that feel. And this feels great. This, not so much. OK. I'm not saying that you don't have to teach him this. You do have to teach him that, but I'm saying with a young puppy, where you're just dealing with what you have, this is actually a little bit of a comforting experience to them whereas this is pretty aversive at first for most dogs. They don't care for it. So come here. So, again-- whoa. Yeah. Do not eat that last hot dog. No. No, no, no. She's like, I'm just going to dive in and get it myself. Come here. So, again-- come here, baby. First of all, rule number one with hand stacking is trying get the stack as close as possible but that's in reality. OK. So stay there, baby. So here. Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. Come here. Come here. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. And now the final one, which is usually the most difficult. Again, I'm going to press her here a little bit but, again, I'm giving her pressure here. Good girl. Nicely done. Good girl. That's a little bit far out and back. I'll show you a couple of tricks with this with the back legs. I want you to look at that picture of that angulation whereas if you put it out further this way, it looks like it has less angulation. If you get the toe pointing forward and straight in this way it's going to look like more angulation in the back. And that's posting, by the way. So I'm going to fix it, one, give you a little something there, two, good girl. And there's a little hand stack for you. OK. Good girl. So now again, you're talking about a month's worth of work right here because you're going to be spending several sessions on each leg just doing that leg. And the most you're going to spend is doing this one just to get her to get the concept. So that's how you train it. So now, I showed you how I train the stack. Now let me show you how-- let me show you how it goes in real life. [LAUGHS] So you're in the show ring, and you got your puppy, and your all-- stand. She's getting tired. Here let me get a-- I'll have to get in a little closer so I can see her. Come here. Stand. Step up. And then you're like, OK, that's great. But then you know-- [CLICK] the person behind you has a squeaky toy and everything is going crazy. So normally what I'll do is I'll fall into hand stacking her, fixing up what I got here. Good. Good. Good. And then I'm going to get down on the ground next to her and just bait her down this way. This way, you know, among other things, I can really check out her position, I can make sure she's in good shape. And, again, it makes her world a little bit smaller. OK. Yeah. I know. There's nothing in there. So I start out with hand-- I start out with trying the free stack. I always try the free stack every time I go in. If you're in a class with a number of animals you can actually be practicing your free stack while the other animals are going. But when push comes to shove and you get up in front of the judge, a lot of times you're going to have to resort to at least fixing some feet sometimes with puppies. OK. All right. All right. You crazy girl. So I have one more thing to show you about this. So we talked about the pressure, the deep touch, and deep pressure. Come here, darling. Come on. I know you're a baby and I know you've been working way too long but you're a good girl. You're going to help a lot of people out. OK? I want to show you one more thing. So in the same way that deep pressure will have a calming effect on the dog-- OK. So I'm going to-- you're going to calm her down. We're going to calm her down. We're going to fix those feet and calm her down like that. Good girl. Light touch will stimulate. It will invigorate the dog. Again, this is a scientific fact that deep pressure will lower respiration, lower blood pressure, calm the dog down, release dopamines. And a light touch will bring up the dogs-- uh, uh, uh, what the heck is that hormone? Not cortisol, but adrenaline. It will bring up the dogs adrenaline a little bit. So what I usually do is I finish with the deep pressure stacking. Deep pressure and then I'll do this. So you do this and you do some light touch. As you're baiting them, you just run your fingers this way. And see how that gets her a little bit more up if I rub her just lightly along her back? And you'll see handlers doing this. It's the same thing as, like, cattle. If you use deep pressure, it calms them but if they have a fly on them, they'll kick it off. So again, just a little light touch on the topline, sometimes, will invigorate them a little. OK. So you sit here for a second, then I'm going to show them. OK. So all of this is very nice but you do still have to train the dog to have their face held and I'm going to go into the reasons why you need to do this. Again, that "control the head and you control the dog." You do. It's a good practice to do it, no matter what. And I'm going to show you how-- no. You come here. You come here. You come here. I'm going to show you how I do it. At first, when you try and put your hand on their head, what you're going to find, usually-- come here, girl-- is they resist it a lot. Come here. So go over here and let me just-- I'm going to take it here. [CLICK] OK. Now you can see what the problem is. If I click and she has to-- and then she'll just break it and turn her face this way. So what I do is I put the cookie in my hand-- and this is really advanced. We have just started working on this-- and I hold it there-- [CLICK] and then I just slide my hand up and give it to her. Come on. Come up here. Stand. Come here. Come here, Bingo. There you go. [CLICK] Good girl. Until she learns to-- [CLICK] Good girl. Accept her face being held that way. Good girl. [INAUDIBLE] there can be applications-- [CLICK] where you definitely want to do that. So I have no issue with training it this way, but my point is that I think that by using the deep body pressure instead of holding the head, which can be naturally somewhat aversive-- here, you can have her. Goodbye. For a young puppy, I think that you're reaching into the puppy and controlling them on an emotional level in a way that you might not-- even if you've well-trained them to accept this. I think you're missing out an opportunity to offer a little comfort and a little settling to the puppy. You know, and that brings me to the point of using corrections. And it's so tempting to be saying, uh-uh, no. Don't move. Don't move. And to be shaking the dog's head, and holding them, and you know, telling them not to move, and don't move, and teach them not to move. And you know, here's the problem with that. Dog training is not a moral issue. I say it again and again. It's not a moral issue, it's about getting what you want out of the dog. And the problem is-- I want you to cast back and think about the sensory integration and the sensory overload that these puppies are experiencing when they go to a dog show. I mean, I don't care how many times you played the dog show tape and you did whatever you did, it's sensory overload for them. In all likelihood, they are not able to listen to you. It's not like they don't want to, it's just everything is coming at them and they just cannot separate the wheat from the chaff. They don't understand what's important and what's not important, especially in the beginning. And then you add that to the fact that most puppies are going to start showing at, like let's say, six months old is the first time you might show your puppy-- six to eight months old. Which, arguably, somewhere in there they could be in a transitory fear period. And they're socially uncertain anyway until they're at least 18 months to two years. Probably till they're three years, but certainly that first year, a lot of social uncertainty. The ice is just getting thinner, and thinner, and thinner. So now they've got sensory overload, they're socially uncertain, maybe in a fear period, and now you're holding them in a way that they don't really like, and then you administer that correction. That can just be the coup de gras that sends them over the edge and just turns them off from showing altogether. I can't tell you how many people I get that say, I don't know. He went out and got a major and then the next week he came out and he didn't want to show. Usually, there-- usually-- there is an explanation for that and it probably wasn't clear to you that there was a stacking of stressors here that just broke through the ice. I mean, I like to think about it, the ice getting thinner and thinner that you just fell into that pool of, the dog doesn't want to show. Now you've got years of counterconditioning ahead of you. Whereas, if you can just back off and just accept that the puppy's not going to be perfect-- and if there is a mistake, take it as a teaching moment for you, that you have something to go home and to work on. That maybe some more matches or classes are good with the dog, and just forego the corrections-- it will just pay you such dividends down the road. You have to trust me. This is not-- I'm not saying this because it's "nice," I'm saying it because it works. Because it's better. Because in the long run it preserves your dog, in the short run, to be a true show dog in the long run. OK. Oh, there is a question. Yes? You were talking about the dog sensory overload with the activity at the show. Wouldn't good attention behavior work to focus the dog on one thing, the handler, rather than worrying about deep pressure? Well, I don't think it's an either/or. I think they're both really important. Again, I think no matter how much foundation you have put into this, it still is a sensory overload situation. And I think that the deep pressure can be very helpful. We're going to talk about some exceptions here for some dogs. Listen, there's no magic thing, one thing, that you're going to do that you're going to take a six-month-old puppy to a dog show and it's going to be perfect. I mean, they're going to be horrible. It's gravy if they're good. So I would assume that it's not going to be an easy experience. That you're going to have to work, and you're going to have to work hard on, emotionally, just building that puppy up and getting what you want. I mean, maybe some-- Karen's here, again, the Vizsla. Maybe they're not bad is six months but what does a six month-- it's a rodeo. Right? Sweepstakes, you know, it's a rodeo. It's like they're on the end of the leash, it's insanity. Maybe we'll cut-in some footage of sweepstakes. [LAUGHS] You know, some people can see a Bull Terrier sweepstakes. It's crazy. But again, I don't think it's an either/or. I think you-- again, attention to behavior, as I said. Yes, absolutely essential. You really need to narrow down that dog's world. It can help, but why not use all the tools you have? And I do think that the deep pressure can help. But let me talk about this. First of all, in the studies-- and I'll put up the citations, this Temple Grandin's article-- but in the studies that Temple Grandin did on deep pressure and sensory integration, what she found was that-- she actually created this body squeeze machine that applied pressure to people and then measured their response. And 50% had a huge, positive response in the sense that they were very relaxed. It made them very tired, and just feeling almost like they could take a nap, and they felt great. 45% had absolutely no reaction. It was interesting. That was an either/or. Either there was a reaction or there wasn't. And then there was 5% of the people were actually claustrophobic and freaked out. So you could have the claustrophobic dog. Certainly. I tried to stack Gina's Toller and she did not want to be touched. OK. So that required a whole different approach. I mean, I just came in, I tried to lean over her, and whoa, I mean the dog just about-- was in the next county. Did not like it. You have to listen to the dog and what the dog wants you to do. In that case of that dog, it would make a lot more sense to teach her to hold her head straight and then just be able to place the feet without leaning into, or over, the dog. Not every dog is going to like that. Bull Terriers are like autistic three-year-olds, they love it. And I don't mean that in hyperbolic sense. I mean, genetically, they probably are about that. I see that there's a question but let me-- because I want to get through these exceptions of why you would need it. On a lot of coated breeds, you can't come over and squeeze them because you'll ruin their coat. Standard poodles, you see that they live with someone holding the side of their face. However, as puppies, you can do it because they're still in the puppy clip. But eventually, you're going to need, with the coat of breeds especially, to teach them to be able to hold their head in order to do the stack. I just want to say in conclusion, that, number one, it's not a cure-all. There's no cure-all. It's not like, magically, you're going in-- but it's something that can add just, marginal, a little comfort to probably some of the puppies. I would guess most puppies. Oh, and also, if you're doing "Puppy Culture" with your puppies and you're handling them a lot, more than likely, they're going to appreciate this more because they're used to that deep touch and a lot of touch but some puppies not raised that way, they're not going to like it that much. Go ahead, Gina. The question is, can you get a dog that has had a bad experience at the show back to loving it again? Yes. Yes you can. I mean, but there are so many-- [LAUGHS] caveats with that. How bad is it? Why did it happen? What happened? What was the dog's upbringing to start out with? I mean, there's genetic factors, there's a lot of things. I mean, some dogs-- you know, if it's a dog that has been raised to be an enrichment seeker, it's emotionally resilient, and it just has a bad experience, yes, you probably can. But again, now you're into counterconditioning and desensitization and it's a long-- it's a long road. I mean and I don't-- you know, deep body pressure may be part of it for that dog but you really have to, again, listen to the dog. The customer is always right and the dog's the customer. If they like the deep body pressure, go with it. If they don't, train the hand so that they'll accept that pressure. OK. All right. So we're going to bring in Mina now. Mina, the feral beast. Jane, which lead did you want? Uh, that's fine. Yeah, she's fine with that. So Bijoux, I've worked with quite a bit. Mina, much less. And I did that on purpose for you guys. So you're going to-- hi, Beaux beans. Oh, my goodness. She has to lick Monica's head on the way in. Here, look what mommy has for you. I have this. OK. So first, let's warm up with a couple of free stacks because that's what we know. We always start with what we know, which is free stacking. [CLICK] OK. And I know she's far back but-- come on. Let's go in closer so I can see you. Come on. Meens. Stand up. [CLICK] Good girl. Nicely done. OK. Come on. Now let's get your head positioned. Come here. Let's just work on head position a little bit. Come here. Stand. Here. [CLICK] Good job. OK. So again, I'm going to put my bait in my mouth. Come here, Meens. I want to show you. I want people to be able to see. And oh, you know, this is one thing that I may not have emphasized sufficiently, is that you always want to try and walk them into the stack as much as possible. You know, if possible, you walk them in. But again, we're talking about training here so-- yeah, Heidi, I need it tilted more up this way. Now remember, here's my deep body pressure, I'm going to put my forearm on her. [CLICK] OK. Because she's much further behind Bijoux so I'm not even-- [CLICK] I'm not even taking my arm away. I'm just removing my hands a little. [CLICK] OK. So she's ready to go the next step. So I'll put that there. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. Very good. So she really had a lot of late learning here. Do not go off after that squirrel, please. [CLICK] [LAUGHS] The squirrels abound. [INAUDIBLE] Yeah. You're a good girl. That's good that you didn't run off after that squirrel. That was well done. OK. So late in learning. Again, if you've watched Puppy Culture, you know about distributed learning. You know, I did a session or two with her and boy she really picked that up because she's holding that front foot where she did not at all before. OK. So don't do that. It's OK. It's all OK. It's the witching hour, it's that hour. And they're probably not wrong because it's when all the bears and stuff come out now. So stand here. OK. So we've got this foot. Good. Now let's try this one. Let's do this. OK. This one, not so much. OK. This one she doesn't like so much. I'm going to give her a nice pressure right here. [CLICK] Oh. She really does not like to be pushed this way. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. Good girl. Should we try the back? [BARKS] The back is always harder because they want to turn around look at you. Not now because there's a squirrel out there that needs disciplining. OK. You're not acting really like a novice here for me. [CLICK] So you might be of limited utility in this demo. [INAUDIBLE] Yeah, I know. And by the way, I just want to say if this happens to you in the breed ring, man use that. Just, there it is. I mean, don't think that you always have to be doing all the work. If they alert on something, just get out of the way and let the dog show itself. And it can happen, you know. It can happen. And if that happens, just step back, get out of the picture. All right. So let's show how you don't know how to do this thing with the hand under the chin. All right. So she hasn't-- she-- I did this one session with her and boy did she hate it. So let's see if she's going to make a liar out of me now. Here. See her lift her foot? How much she just hates that? See how she wants to shrink away from it? So-- [CLICK] Good. [CLICK] Good girl. See that? So-- [CLICK] we're just working on it. Again, there's your-- there's your-- yeah. You can just show yourself, there. Yeah. I know. So, here. See how she actually wants to shrink away from it? [CLICK] We'll be throwing squirrels around outside. I know. We'll be throwing squirrels around. See? Oh, she's like, meehhl. See her ears? Yeah, I know. So I'd like her just to rest her hand down in here but she's not liking that at all. See her foot? [CLICK] So, OK. So that's all I would do with that because she doesn't like it. But you know what, if I did that for a week, every day, she'd be resting her hand on my chin. I have not taught her, you know, rest her chin in my hand. I have taught other dogs that in the past and it does really help but most people-- I shouldn't say that-- but a lot of show people don't really get that much into dog training that way. So-- hi. Hi. We're going to bring out Phoebe. You know why? Because Phoebe is really feral. Phoebe doesn't know nothing. Here, you want to take her, Kim? You go over there. Jane, we have a question. Yes? You mentioned that dogs do not want to be touched and how to adapt the methods of stacking them. This helps with stacking, but the puppy still needs to be touched by the judge. How do you build the puppy up to cope with this? OK. You know, that's a really good question and beyond the scope of this particular demonstration. In that case, I mean, the first thing I would do just for starters is attentions and behavior. And if you've watched the attentions and behavior, you see how we come in and almost-- we start touching the puppy. So that's one way to do it. If it's truly like boiling oil if someone touches the dog, if the dog has terror, if there's fear, you know, now you're into a different area where you really have to engage in a big counterconditioning and desensitization program. It's a whole subject. It's a two-volume broadcast in itself to talk about all the things that could go wrong or that you might have to train. But basically, a dog that's not really afraid of it, but just doesn't love it, attention is a behavior, just work on touching. OK. All right. So here comes Phoebe. Now Phoebe, you've got to be my rock star. You got to be my Luke Skywalker, here, with not being good about the stack. She's ready to not be good. Yeah. She's ready to not be good about the stacking. Ow! My knee. [LAUGHING] Yeah. OK. So this is-- what did I say-- rodeo, right? Hi, hi hi, hi, hi, hi hi. How's it going? OK. So let's take a look at this. Why don't you come over here? Yeah. Why don't you come over and let's talk about this? I know. I know. It's crazy. We're out here and we're doing things. So why don't you come here? OK. OK. Oh. [LAUGHS] OK. All right. Hold on. Hold on. [LAUGHS] No, no, no. No don't make me laugh. [LAUGHS] OK. Here, have some food. [LAUGHS] Baby, baby, baby. Here. Here. Here. Here. Here. Have some food. OK. Well, this is a pretty good example. There's more hot dogs here. I'd like you to calm down. It would be awesome if you calmed down a little. This is typical. This is how they are. All right. So here, listen to me. Let's try just clicking. Come here. Let's try clicking for standing still. Good. Thank goodness. And try not to take a digit off. [CLICK] There you go. I'm throwing it because I don't trust you. Stand still. [CLICK] Good girl, Phoebs. OK. I'm not worried about her free stack, I just want her to stop moving long enough that I can approach her. Come here. All right. Come here. Can you talk to me for a second? Let's see how you do. Come here. Let's see how you do. Come here. That's a good girl. [CLICK] That's a good girl. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. Good girl. Come here. [CLICK] Mm-hmm. Good girl. You see how that calms her right down? [CLICK] [CLICK] [CLICK] OK. She wasn't ready for the next step. But that's about as much I would do with this dog in one session. But you could see how just applying that pressure to her really did calm her down. I mean, you know, especially with a flea-brained dog like this. I mean, it can really calm them down. Whatever. That is actually a tractor that you guys are all going gangster over. Seriously. All right. So let me just show you the difference. Come here. So let's say now, I come in with this dog-- come here. Come here-- and I'm like, OK. Let me hold her head. I know. I know there's crazy stuff. OK. This is not a fair comparison because now you're losing your mind. Come here. Here's your hot dogs. Let's get us some dogs. Yeah. We have this, and you can calm down with that. Come here. Come here. Come here. OK. So, listen to me. I've got some hot dogs. What I want you to do is to stand up, if you can. I know you-- I know you don't know about this but I want you to stand up, if you can, and I want to hold your face. Yeah. You don't like that, do you? OK. That is not working so good for her. Come here. But, again, I can train this. Come here. You see that hot dog? Come this way. Come this way. Come here. So this dog, I mean the whole first thing-- [CLICK] Good girl. Come here. She just sees the hot dog. She wants it, it's like-- I can't do that so I'm going to have to do this. [CLICK] [CLICK] Good girl. She feels more comfortable facing me. I'm OK with that. [CLICK] There we go. Good girl. Can you turn her sideways? I can't, really. [CLICK] Come here. Come here. I want to just turn this way. And if this is all I can get-- [CLICK] that's what I'm going to do. [CLICK] Good girl. Very well done. Come here. And what I'm waiting for is for her to just yield a little bit into my hand and not be fighting it so hard. I'm looking for just a little bit of-- [CLICK] That's good. All right. And again, that's as much as I would do today because what I got there was just a little bit of-- like I didn't feel her pressing on my fingers, trying to get away from me. You're a good girl. I know. Do you want to try a little stacking again? I know you do. I know you do. And again, I've never worked with this dog with stacking, so. Come here. So let's look at this one more time. Come here, baby girl. Come here. Come here. Come on. OK. And let me say, normally, I would not fight the dog. I would just do it wherever she wants to stand because you can only fight one battle at a time. Pick your battles. The only reason I'm doing this is because there's a camera and I want people to be able to see it but, in reality, I would just stop wherever she stands and just do it. I wouldn't worry about trying to manipulate her into position. There. No, no. I want you to hold still. I know it's crazy stuff but listen to me. Doesn't this feel great, if I do this? So here. I know you're a good girl. [CLICK] That's good. That's really good. Do you want to try this leg? Here. [CLICK] Good girl. [CLICK] Good girl. Nicely done. Again, in reality-- [CLICK] I would do a lot of sessions just on this leg. I would just move the one leg. [CLICK] Move it again. [CLICK] Move it again. [CLICK] Good girl. OK. And she doesn't have a release. Come on. I mean this is not-- you know, this puppy doesn't have any training. You're a good girl. She's not a puppy either. She's not a puppy really. She's going to be two in December. Yeah, but she's kind of crazy. All right. Well, Phoebe, do you want to say goodnight? Have you-- have you de-squirreled the whole place? Come here, Phoebs, and say goodbye. Goodbye. Goodbye, Phoebs. Thanks for joining us.

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Duration: 57 minutes and 47 seconds
Language: English
License: Dotsub - Standard License
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Posted by: norabean on Apr 5, 2018


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