NHT Day 07 05 Liq Delivery

Well, welcome to our module on liquid delivery treatment, okay. This is going to be an interesting module because we're going to talk about what is liquid treatment, why do we use it, how do we do it, how does it work, and we're talking Termidor here, okay. So this is strictly a liquid treatment, nothing more. Now one of the questions I've put out here to you was do you know your treating specs, because from this module on, every module we have is going to have some kinds of questions regarding treatment specs. So I'm just kind of curious, I want to put out a question here. Some of you do know your treatment specs. Not only do you know them, you know, by number, but you know why we do what we do. I'm just kind of curious, so let's check that out and see what your response is to that. Well, not looking so good. All right, 50-50 right now at this point. You know, if you're going to treat a structure, you best know what we're talking about with those codes that are put on the graph. So right now we've got less than half that know their treatments spec. So I would make that a challenge to you for the rest of the week that, go to the section 600 in the Termite Expectations manual and not just read it but study it and know your basic treatment specs. There's about 15 or 16 we use pretty regularly and you'll see those showing up. All right, so that's what we'll do with that. And then hopefully, each day you'll get a little bit better, all right, little bit better is good. Let's take a look at our objectives for this module. Okay, couple of things we want to accomplish here. Okay, first thing is we're going to take a look at the four methods for delivering a liquid treatment. There's really three methods, the forth one's is kind of part of another one, but nevertheless, it's a method. And we're going to take a look at what treatment specs should be applied in given situations. I'm going to give you some real life scenarios here so that you can actually apply what we're going to be talking about. And then we're going to take a look at explaining how we perform the treatment in a given situation. I've got seven or eight actual real world scenarios for the later on in the module, after we do some of the basic stuff here, where you're going to get to apply this. So I would really pay very, very close attention. And then describe how the treatment works in a given situation. So we're going to be looking really at three things with that, okay, what's the treatments spec, what's the process of delivering that treatments spec, and then how does it kill the termites, which is pretty interesting, at least once, okay. All right, now with that being said, I want to put a question out here. And don't misconstrue the question, okay. I don't want a treatment spec number, what I want is a definition. What's a treatment spec? Who's going to come up with something for us here, okay? Oh, I like this. Look at this guy, look at this Louise already. Okay, code for the tech to designate a particular method for applying materials in a given situation. That must be in your workbook 'cause it's word for word as the slide that's going to come up here next. So a very good job of finding that in your workbook, okay. Where we treat and how we treat? Yeah, it's pretty much as Louise said, you know, the treatment spec numbers are codes. So termite specialists, when you see 12 on a graph, you say, "Ah, trench and treat." You immediately make the association with the code. So the code tells you where to do a particular method for a given situation. So that's right on, okay. Okay, do commercial techs have to attend this module? No. Commercial techs are in pest control. This is termite control that we're doing right now. Okay, so no, the commercial technicians are dealing with pest control. You're welcome to stay if you want, I don't care, if you happen to be in the same branch where you have somebody there. But no, you're not required to do that, okay. Not that I wouldn't welcome you with open arms. So, you know, the treatment specs are the codes, they tell us what we need to do here, all right. Now that kind of leads me into the next question. So why do we put these treatment specifications... Why do we use these treatments specifications on our graphs? Let's get a couple of thoughts on that. What do you think? So why do we use these treatment specs on our graph? It's not just one thing, all right. Okay, document the type and location of the treatment. Louise, you're doing great. You have the answers or something that you're coming up word for word here. It must be in your workbook. It must be on page two. But that's correct. Okay, what else? Okay minimize misunderstands. Yeah, I like that, William. What we've got here is a failure to communicate. You know, we don't want that, all right. You know, we've got to make sure we've got open communication here, so termite, you know, the inspectors, when you put that treatments back on there, you want to make sure it's the right one. We talked about that in the last module that we don't misguide or end up doing the wrong thing here. Okay, so the tech knows, I don't have to deliver the treatment. Yes. Yeah, exactly. Yes, you guys are on the right track. I like that. Very good job. Let's take a look at it. I think you've gotten most of these. Okay, obviously, we have to document the type and location of the treatment that we apply. Remember, this is a legal document, the graphs that we have to put the treatment specs on. And, inspectors, you might put treatment specs on if your termite specialist decides to do something different. They have to take any specs off that they do not do, all right. And, termite specialists, you need to realize that. Or if they decide to do something because it's just a better way to do it, maybe to avoid some of those cosmetic issues, then they're going to do that, too. Okay, you know, we also want to indicate to the specialists what type of treatment we want. What they have to do, and this is really a challenge to you termite specialists, so I'll give you the heads up, learn those treatments specs by Thursday because we're going to talk about treatment plans and there's a couple different options of how you can treat. Okay, and we talk about a Perimeter Plus versus a direct liquid bait versus a liquid treatment versus the Sentricon HD, that type of thing. And a lot of times, you have to identify, just by the treatment specs are on there, what kind of program that inspector really wants you to do? So we want to make sure we find out for that reason, too. And then going back to the slide, there's a couple other points on here. Okay, the whole idea of providing a visual image for the prospect. Inspectors, you're going to get questions like this. Well, you know, what are these numbers on here? Now we don't want to get into the numbers, believe me, if you want to really screw up somebody's head, we're going to do 12 around here. That means nothing to your prospects. All you have to tell them is, "Hey, these are codes for the termite specialist." So they know what I want them to do, treatment wise, to fix your problem. And then just in layman's terms, explain what you're going to do and do it that way. Okay, so those are really, you know, the reasons why we're doing that. Now when we talk about treatment here, we're talking about Rollins, we're talking about the way we do it here, okay, not necessarily, you know, I think Jim probably talked about rule states, minimum standard states, where you've got to meet their standards, and if they're stricter than ours, we definitely have to meet them. So, you know, we're not talking about that. We're talking about strictly how we do things. That's why we have a Termite Expectations manual that you can get online if you go to My Orkin and go to the Technical Services area, click on Manuals, and there it is. But I would start checking that out and start getting it up here in the library, and make sure you get it right, okay. 'Cause some states do require additional treatment above and beyond what we... And we believe we're very strict. Some states require even a little bit more than that. So you might want to check with your branch and see if you live in a minimum treatment state, you know, or a standard state and do that. Okay, so that's a couple of things to keep in mind. You know, also, if you operate more than one state, folks, you got to make sure that you know the standards in each state, because sometimes you're right on the border, so you may cover part of your state and then you go across the line to cover part of another state, we got to make sure we get that right. Okay, all right, now then next question, this is always a challenging one. Let's just see if we can come up here. And the question is what are the four methods for delivering liquid treatment? Just think about liquid treatment at this point. Don't think anything beyond that. You know, what are the four methods, let's get a couple of chats going on this. What are the four methods? Well, look at Peter just rapping them out here. He's got all of them, okay. Okay, we got horizontal treatment, void treatment, vertical treatment, trenching treatment. Very good. I have to tell you guys... You're doing all right, okay, 'cause everybody has got something here, okay. Trench, void. Yeah, those are really the four, okay. So this is an exceptional group, Aubrey, you know. So yeah, you've got the four. Here they are. Now let's just, what I want to do is I want to look at each one of these individually and make sure that everybody is clear on it, okay, 'cause, you know, you get four options up here on the board, right, now you may need to perform all four of these or maybe just two of them or maybe just one, it really depends on what kind of problems you have, what kind of treatment plan that you're using, all right. So it really depends on that. And so we're going to cover treatment plans again, like I said, on Thursday in the Treatment Plan module. And so you're going to need to know those treatment specs again. But let's just, just to make sure everybody gets it, I want to take each one of these individually and make sure you're clear about it, all right. So let's take a look at horizontal first, all right. Horizontal is interesting because the treatment is not really horizontal, okay. If I'm drilling down through a slab, the tree of plumbing penetration, it's not really, doesn't really seem to be horizontal. But you have to look at the ultimate outcome. All we're trying to do is get the material and you'll see all of these but 16 relate to slabs. All we're trying to do is get the material down around the pipes, under the slab, okay, because termite treatment is kind of like football. And I want you to remember this concept. It's a contact sport. You know, Termidor doesn't kill termites on contact. It's not like, "Oh, jeez. That's it, friend. I'm out of here." It takes time because they use the process called the transfer effect, all right. So the whole idea is they get it on their bodies, they eat the cellulose fibers with that or they come in contact with it in the ground and then they absorb it dermally, and then through their social nature of grooming each other and sharing food, both mouth to mouth feeding as well as anaphylaxis, I'll let you figure out what that is. That's how they transfer it. Then I start infecting my friends and family and we start to reduce the size of the colony. So the whole idea with horizontal is to get it just underneath the slab, you know, termites are unique and that they follow plumbing penetrations and, you know, tree roots. You know, they hit a tree root, they'll follow right to the tree, they hit a plumbing pipe, they'll follow right into the structure because they're small enough that they can make that work for them, okay. So you can see some of the common treatment specs that go with horizontal is 5 like treating your bath traps and drilling down through the concrete inside the bath trap area to get the pipes underneath, okay, and then you've got your, you know, you're down drilling for all your other plumbing, specification number 6, so 5 and 6 are very commonly used. So you want to get those down faster. And then, you know, number 8 is an alternative to number 6, okay. Somebody says, "No, no, no. There's no way you're drilling through my tile floor, that's not going to happen." Then we may have to use an alternative treatment like a short rod going through the foundation wall to get the material down along there or maybe even a long rod for trying to get underneath the tub as it's plumbing at the other end, that type of thing. And 16 is trench and treating piers and soil pipes. So crawlspace, you have, you know, main sewage line coming out, you have a main water line coming out, it's to make sure that we get the material around there. All right, so those are some of the examples you might want to note that those are horizontal treatment specs 'cause that's what they are. Now what might be some examples of plumbing penetrations? Get a couple of quick chats on this and see what your thoughts are. This is on page five. Okay, supply lines. That's one. Drain pipes, HBAC lines, okay. Think of the more common ones. Yeah, you've got your bathtubs, you've got your bathroom plumbing, you've got your kitchen sink plumbing. So it's that kind of stuff that we're talking about, your wet bars, you know, where you've got some running water and a drain, maybe an automatic icemaker line coming out there, so the typical plumbing penetrations or the tubs, the bathroom, the kitchen sinks, the washing machine supply, you know, that's been coming up there as well. So these are all examples of that. Now this next slide, it kind of shows you where we're trying to get the material, okay. Again, we're trying to get the material to wrap around the pipe horizontally. So we don't need to go deep, we just need to get that material right underneath the slab and around the pipe. Or in the case of a crawlspace, you know, saturate that soil that's wrapped right around the pipe. So we dig out the trench, we dump a gallon of material in there, it absorbs down along that pipes, so they have to come in contact with it. So if termites try to enter, obviously, they're going to have to come in contact, that's why it's like football. You can see the red area on the slide, that's the Termidor, they can't avoid it. When you have it wrapped around a pipe like that, they cannot avoid it. Now you can see the application rate is one gallon per ten square feet. Now again, this is the least amount of material that we would use in any kind of treatment. Okay, one gallon per ten square feet, 'cause I just need to get that material wrapped around that pipe, I don't need a whole lot of it, all right. I don't need a whole lot of it. So I hope that red shows you that's really where we're trying to get the material to go to. Now there are some other factors that impact that, that we'll talk about a little bit later, okay. Now with that being said, we're going to take a look at a little video here on this horizontal treatment. So let's a look at this and then I'll ask you some question. So let's see what it says. First kind of barrier we mentioned earlier was a horizontal barrier. This is made by letting the termiticide flow across the surface of the soil. Usually, this will be done under a concrete slab. A horizontal barrier with liquid termiticide is used in slab homes at a place called the bath trap. When the slabs are poured, the builders leave an opening in the concrete for the plumber to install the tub or drain. This kind of opening would let the termites in easily if it weren't protected. Many times, there is an access door in the wall behind the opening in the slab. If there is an access, we are ready to treat. If not, we have to make an opening in the wall on the backside of the tub or fixture that has to be treated. In the bathroom, measure the distance from the tub faucet to the corner. Then, on the back side of the wall, measure the same distance from the same corner. This is the center of the plumbing and it's the location of the opening in the slab. Using the keyhole saw, cut the sheet rock above the baseboard. Make the cut out as large as necessary to allow the access door to be installed when you're finished treating. If this cutout is in a hidden place like a closet, it can be covered with a vent. The cutout still needs to be large enough to allow inspection next year. Once the opening is made, we apply the termiticide using the black plastic compressed air sprayer. Using this instead of the hose helps prevent splashing termiticide on the lumber and sheet rock inside the access. The termiticide is applied at the rate of one gallon of liquid for every ten feet of soil to be covered. After the treatment is finished, install the access door or the vet. In slab homes, plumbing and utilities penetrate the slab in many places. When the concrete was poured around the pipes, a tiny gap was left. In addition, the concrete develops cracks as it dries. Each of these places is a potential entryway for termites. And so each plumbing penetration and crack must be protected. Plumbing penetrations will be found in places like bathroom shower, lavatories, kitchen sinks, laundry areas, water heaters, wet bars, and the ventilation pipes for drains. Finding all the penetrations require some detective work because the walls are hiding most of the pipes. Sometimes, by filling sinks with water and listening as the water drains, you can determine where the drain goes. Sometimes, looking at the roof from outside will show you the location of the vent pipe. But sometimes finding the location that needs treating requires a crawl through the attic. Be very careful when inspecting for these drain vents. Cracks in the slab are another place where a horizontal barrier can be effective for blocking termites. Cracks are not always obvious during the initial inspection, but some signs will help you find them. Cracks in walls are a clue that the slab may be cracked. Treating cracks in the slab requires a horizontal barrier to be placed under the entire crack. To do this, drill through the slab along the entire length. Make the holes about four feet apart, begin treating at the center hole. Okay, saw several things there, okay, just a couple of things. First of all, I'd like to thank Stormy for letting us use her bathroom, you kind of see she has that retro look with the mob toilet and the tub and she really likes that a lot so she's not here, she's not hearing me say this but you can see that there are the certain things you want to make sure you do. And just a couple of kind of tips off of that, kind of what we call best practices. You know, obviously, you've got to make sure, termite specialists, that you don't hit a pipe. Are you going to be perfect? Probably, not, all right. That's why we need that water shut off, okay. So you can see there was a couple things there in the video, fill the sink with water, try to figure out where it goes. You know, a lot of times in the, particularly, when you have these double vanities, okay, the drain is not directly going into the slab below the sink, it might be in the middle where both sinks are draining into one drain line. So you've got to check that out and spend more time, not less, trying to do that. The other thing is, you know, you can follow the vent stack, they run the vent pipes up to get rid of the methane. And, you know, you check it in the roof. Now unfortunately, in some of the newer buildings, they're not running them up through the roof. If the attic is significantly sized, it gets enough air in there, they'll just run it up into the attic, all right. So you may literally have to go up in the attic and find out if there's a vent pipe that's exiting in the attic, okay, to give you a better idea where these drains are. But take the time to do that before you get that Hilti out, okay, and start, you know, drilling holes and hitting water lines, okay. So let's make sure that we don't do that. Remember, once you hit a pipe, now you've got to explain to the customer and we have to fix it obviously and make it right and so we make sure that we do that. Okay, you saw settlement cracks, you know, you get those, we drill on either side of those, we put foam in there, in case there's any voids underneath that settlement crack, 'cause you never know what's under the ground, you know, we treat a whole lot more by faith than we do by sight, okay. And then the other thing I want you to keep in mind is you saw the guy at a B&G there. That's not how we treat a bath trap area. If you've got a drain pipe, or water lines, that are stuck in like a dirt box, sometimes what they do is they frame out this little box with dirt in it, save a little wiggle room with the tub, all right, and, you know, you can dump a gallon of Termidor down there. But it's not just a little squirt-squirt with a B&G. That doesn't take care of it. So make sure you check with your service manager and find out, you know, how do they expect you to do this, and make sure you're using the proper amount of material. One gallon per ten square feet, so if I've got a dirt box where I need to dump a gallon of Termidor in there so it absorbs down in that soil right around the pipes. So again, when they try to come up through there, they've got to come in contact with it. Sometimes you have to drill through the floor, like for toilets, like for sinks. And it's still one gallon per ten square feet. And ten square feet, it's like a two foot wide by five foot deep tub. So, you know, that's pretty much what ten square feet is or a three foot by three foot area, a little bit more than that, and do it that way. Okay, so those are some of the things you have to keep in mind with the horizontal treatment. Now with that being said then, this again gets back to what we talked about in the last module, this whole water shut off thing. Inspectors, make sure you mark it on the graph, you find it. Specialists, make sure you know where it is before you start drilling. Once you hit the pipe, it's too late, okay. You know, you don't drill one hole until you know where that water shut off is 'cause you know what? Yeah, okay, you know, we're going to make it right, you know, I get that. Okay, I get that pretty easily. But remember, you're inconveniencing the customer. And while we may make a right, that's the memory they're going to have of you, termite specialist, that you hit a pipe. So we don't want to have that, okay. Okay, so that's pretty much the horizontal treatment. What questions do you have? Okay, a live screen. Do you see this question, Aubrey. Live. Okay, Aubrey will try to help you out with that or tell you what may be causing that or what's happening. He's the technical brain, not me, okay. Okay, so let's move onto voids. Okay, so what do we mean by void treatment? So what are some examples of voids that termites might use to enter? Let's get a couple of chats going on that. Okay, brick veneer, okay, hallow block, okay, Vents. All right, we're really talking about voids not the vents, you'll see in a minute, doesn't really apply. Okay, hollow block. Yeah, it's any kind of wall void everybody. Okay, we're talking wall voids here or some kind of veneer, so you have brick veneer, you have stone veneer, you can do that. So these are the kinds of things we get. So here are some examples, you have a hollow block foundation wall, termites are gonna come up through the core, they'll come up the brick veneer there, they'll come up through piers that have, you know, cores in the center like on the upper left there. Stone veneer, they'll get behind the gap between the stone and the hollow block. So termites, one of their easiest ways to get in is through voids. Also, not shown here, is your double brick foundation walls, your triple brick foundation walls, your stone foundation walls that go back really too much older types of structures, okay. And that's what we're talking about here. You know, termites come up brick veneer, you know, they just, they come up in between the foundation wall and the brick veneer, there's a gap there all the time. And that's how they get in. So we need to take a little bit more of a look at this. So we're going to start out with hollow block, yeah. Hollow block has two options to it, you can either have a two core hollow block or you can have a three core hollow block. Now, termite specialists, one of the first things you need to do is figure out what kind of block is it. Is it two core or three core? The way you tell the cinder block is 16 inches wide. So if I drill from the edge to the center eight inches, if I drill that block on the left, I'm going to keep drilling and drilling and drilling and drilling, 'cause I'm hitting the center post of the cores there. If I go eight inches to the center of the block on the right, I'm going to pop right into the middle core of the block. That's how you tell. You have to make that decision before you start treating. Now I'm just kind of curious. What's the treatment spec for treating hollow blocks? Somebody chat that in. Let's see who'll be the first one here to get that, first one to get the treatment spec for treating a hollow block. Holy cow, nobody knows it yet. That one just popped right out. Okay, number five. No, that's not it. Okay, Steve, you got it right, down in Toledo. Number nine, you treat the cores of hollow block foundation walls with a nine, you also treat the cores of hollow block piers with a nine. So it's treatment spec nine. Now again, remember, your block is 16 inches wide, 8 inches high, and 8 inches deep, all right, and that's pretty much to say. Now there is a 10 inch block out there, okay, kind of an oversized block. So you may have to be aware of that as well, all right. Now let me just show you another slide here. Let's take a look 'cause there's a couple rules you have to follow here. Okay, the first thing is that you cannot drill any higher than 18 inches above the grade, whether you're inside or outside. So if I'm treating the inside of a crawlspace foundation, well, I'm got to follow the grade 'cause maybe it's got a little slope to it. I can't be more than 18 inches up. On the outside, it can't be more than 18 inches up. Now how high is that? Well, that's about two courses a block, you know, 8 inches and 8 inches is 16, you've got a half inch mortar joint. So it's 16.5, you've got a half inch mortar joint on the top of the second course, that's 17 inches. Now in this example, here you can see that there's two holes per block, all right. There's actually a hole, looks like two holes missing. But let me show you on the next one. It's a little easier to see. Okay, now if you notice on the one in the right, especially the two blocks by the vents there on each side, there's two holes there. Now this is the deal. And, termite specialists, you want to remember this, it will save you some work, if you choose to drill the first row a block above grade, you're going to have to drill an extra hole for every block because if you notice on the left side there, the first row, you see three holes. Now I want to go fast forward here a couple of slides because I think this will give you a better idea. So let's go to this one. You see there to the left of the number one, you see those blocks are not flat on the end, are they? No. They've got that little concave, so when you put two blocks together, you have another void there. So if you're going to want to treat the first level of hollow block, you know, the mortar joint above it, you're gonna have to drill three holes, you have to drill that little small void where the two blocks come together, then the core, first core where the one is, and in the second core to the right of the one. Then you see where the two blocks come together, I got to drill that again and the next two cores. I'm adding an extra drill hole for every block which could be quite substantial for you if you have a rather large house that you have to go after, all right. Let me get this back to where I had you before. If you go to option number two on the right, if you go to the second row, you don't have to drill that void where the two blocks meet. You see here, we're just drilling the two voids in the hollow block, we're not drilling where the vertical line goes up to separate the blocks out. We're not drilling there. So you can save yourself one hole per block, termite specialists, by going to courses off grade. Now I just want to throw a poll question out here. Does everybody get that, the difference between drilling the first row block and drilling the second row block? Okay, looks like everybody's getting it. I like it. All right. Okay, so this is the deal in hollow blocks. So again, it's the cores of the block that we're treating, we know termites can build mud tubes up through those cores of block. Sometimes we foam that block as well, okay. All right, now let me throw another question out. Let's look at brick or stone veneer. How can termites enter a structure with brick or stone veneer? They've got little jack hammers or, you know, what do they do? How do they get in? Anybody know the answer to that question? Okay, weep holes, all right, that's a possibility. Okay, void between the veneer and the block. All right, thank you, Tyler. Actually that was Louise or Luke. This thing is moving so fast, I can't read it. Yeah, we got to get the gap. All right, we get the gap that's in between, all right. And that's kind of exemplified in this next slide where you can see here. Let me put it up for you. That might help. There's always going to be a gap there, you know, people think 'cause they have a brick veneer on their house and, inspectors, you're going to hear this, and don't laugh at people, we just tell them, try to educate them, that's not really the case. They go, "Oh, gee, my house is all brick and I don't need to worry about termites." "Yeah, you do." That's brick veneer, that's just for looks. That does nothing structurally for that structure. And you can see that the gap there, at number two, it's a pretty good sized gap for a termite. So we have to treat that gap. Now one of the things we don't do is number three there we do not drill the cores of the brick. Okay, we don't do that. Now what's the treatment spec for treating brick veneer? Somebody shoot that into us. So it's one of those things that we have to treat. And if you read the Termite Expectations manual, it would tell you like every brick and a half, every 12 inches, standard brick is 8 inches, like the ones you see. Okay, very good. We've got... Let's see, we've got Steve, and we've got William, we've got Peter and Louise. Tyler, 26. That's the correct response. So 26 is the treatment spec. So we do not treat the cores of the brick. Please make a note of that. We drill into the mortar joint, we do not drill into the brick, we're trying to get the mortar joint. I'm just kind of curious. Let me throw this question out. How many of you have ever drilled into brick, try to make a hole in brick? Let's see what you come up with on this. How many of you ever made a hole in brick? Not a lot of you have had that experience. Should try it. Lovely. Okay, I think the five that said yes can speak to it. It's not an easy job even with a hammer drill. That's why we don't drill in the brick, that's why we don't treat the cores of that brick as I showed you here in number three. We would be cracking people's brick, breaking it, they'd be so upset with us. It would cost us a fortune. And also, the treatment process would take forever. So one of the things you want to take a look at is how does this thing actually work. Well, you know, we're drilling through the mortar, we're trying to get that material down between that gap. And you see the application rate has changed now. Now it's two gallons per ten linear feet, or horizontal treatment or plumbing was one gallon, so half as much, okay, per ten square feet, this is ten linear feet. So make sure you get that into the library, get it down into your head, and, you know, get that right. So brick veneer, stone veneer is always treated like that. Now there's another option, and this goes way back into your older properties. You know, before hollow block was invented, 'cause that's been around for 2,000 years, all right. You know, we used to use what we call double brick foundations, triple brick foundations, stone foundations. And you're still going to run into houses like this, especially if you live in cities where the structures are pretty old. So you can see here, 17 is your double brick. This is where, literally, the foundation was made out of two rows of brick. This is not a brick veneer. This is the foundation. Okay, this is pre-hollow block before hollow block came on the scene. Triple brick is 18. There you have two voids, 'cause you have three courses of brick going up in. And your spec 20 is your stone treatment and stones are like icebergs. You're trying to drill. You think you're drilling into a mortar joint, all you're doing is drilling into more stone. So let me just say this, inspectors, I want to have a nice sandwich or some nice ice cold drink to take to any termite specialist that has to deal with any of those three because it is not a walk in the park, it is not fun, and they may remember, okay. So again, what's the application rate? Two gallons per ten linear feet. And that's pretty much how that plays. So we're going to take a look at a video on all these different wall voids from hollow block to double brick, triple brick, you know, brick veneer, stone veneer, stone foundation, check it out, and then I'll ask you a couple of questions. Walls that go into the soil often are hollow. These hollow places or voids are excellent entry ways for termites. Because of this, these voids must be treated with termiticide. The challenge is recognizing the location of these voids and in getting the termiticide into the voids after they're located because walls can be made of hollow blocks, bricks, or stone, we'll look at each individually. Hollow blocks can be made with two or three main voids, plus two or three small voids. Any of these can be an entry way, so all of the voids must be treated. Sometimes, you will recognize the type of blocks from some that are used in the area. Sometimes you'll have to drill test holes to find out the type of blocks and the location of the voids in the block. Drill into the mortar joint using a quarter inch bit. After finding the number and location of the voids in the blocks, begin drilling into a mortar joint that is close to the soil level. Drill along the mortar joint into every void until all the voids have been opened for treating. Use the depth gauge supplied with the drill to avoid drilling past the void or into pipes running through the voids. After all the voids have been open, they will all need to be treated. The application will be two gallons of diluted liquid per ten liner feet of block. The application tip is slender for insertion into the holes you drilled. The time each hole is treated will be determined by the calibration you did before starting the job. After all the voids have been treated, the holes will need to be plugged with mortar. Many older homes were constructed with foundations made of brick. In most cases, there will be more than one row of bricks, so there is a gap or a void between the rows. As you enter the crawlspace under the home, it will usually be possible to see how many rows of bricks were used in building the foundation. Foundations that were built with two rows of bricks are called double brick. These will have one void between the two rows of bricks. Foundations with three rows or triple brick will have two voids. Drilling into the void behind the bricks is done through a mortar joint. Select a mortar joint that is fairly close to the soil level and drill every eight inches using the Protek II and the depth gauge. Double brick foundations can be drilled from the outside, but triple brick foundations will have to be drilled from both sides. Remember to offset the inside holes from the outside holes. Treating the voids behind the bricks requires two gallons of liquid termiticide per ten linear feet of wall. Use the void injection tip and treat each hole according to the calculations you did when you calibrated the equipment. After the holes have been treated, patch them with mortar. A similar treatment may have to be done on homes that have a brick veneer facing over the foundation wall. The gap between the brick veneer and the foundation would be treated in the same fashion as a double brick foundation. Remember to use the depth gauge when drilling so the drill doesn't go past the bricks into the foundation. Some homes will have the foundation constructed of stones. There will be voids and gaps between the stones that would allow termites to enter the home. The voids will need to be treated with liquid termiticide. Since the stones usually are irregular in size and shape, the voids between the stones won't be in a nice straight line for treating. Try to determine a line as straight as possible as close to the soil as you can make it. If the mortar between the stones is still good, you will need to drill into the mortar to get access to the voids for treating. Use the quarter inch bit for this drilling. Make the holes about 12 inches apart or between each stone. In some states, it is mandatory to drill so you can verify that there is really a void between the stones. After you have made access to the voids, the treatment will be two gallons of liquid for every ten feet of all. After treating, patch the holes with mortar. Sometimes a home will have unusual voids that require a combination of treatments. In a crawl home, the void under a fire place is often such a situation. There will be a void under the fire box or hearth that must be treated using the foam termiticide to make a horizontal barrier. This void can usually only be reached by drilling through the mortar joints of the foundation, then the foam will be applied at the rate of one gallon of termiticide per ten square feet. The foundation of the chimney will often be made of bricks or hollow blocks. So these voids will also have to be treated using liquid termiticide. The liquid will be injected into the voids at the rate two gallons per ten linear feet. Okay, you've got a little taste of everything on that video. So you saw the hallow block, you saw the double brick, the triple brick, the stone, the veneers, stone and brick. So that should give you the idea, I don't think we need to say too much about that. So let me just ask you this quick poll question. How many of you think you get the void treatment, two gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth? Learn the treatment specs to go with each one, number 9 for the hollow block, double brick 17, triple brick 18, stone 20, stone veneer, brick veneer 26. People get the stone veneer and the stone wall voids, stone foundation mixed up. Remember, veneers are decorative, stone foundation actually holds up the structure just like the double brick and the triple brick. All right, how are we doing here? Let's move onto our vertical treatment. And there's a couple of pretty typical vertical treatments that we do. Obviously, when we down drill, we drill through an interior/exterior expansion joint like a patio or a floating slab that has an expansion joint on the inside, we're vertical drilling, okay. Trenching and treating is a form of vertical treatment. That's kind of the fourth one. So reality is we have horizontal treatment, we have void treatment, we have vertical treatment. Those are the three main ways of delivering a liquid, okay, trenching and treating is part of the vertical treatment. So here we're basically trying to treat the soil, you know, around piers down along foundation walls. That's what we're trying to do with that, okay. And I mean that's pretty much it. There's not much else I can say about that. Now, but I can ask you this question. Okay, how do termites enter around these areas? How do they get into these expansion joints? How do they get in through that? What's the story? Okay, cracks in the foundation wall. That's one way. Very good. Mud tubes. Hey, there you go. I like it. Mud tubes, you bet. What else? Okay, cracks and crevices. Yeah, let's just take a look at a couple of slides here, all good answers. Okay, you know, here's a pier, look at the tubes on that pier, they come right above the ground, they build their tubes up the pier or up the lawn, the siding, get up underneath the siding. That's why you don't want the folks piling mulch up just at that bottom edge of that siding. That's not a good thing, all right. That's how they're going to sneak in. So yeah, I mean, the whole idea of the vertical treatment is basically to get that material down in the soil so, you know, when termites do try to come up along that foundation wall, they're going to come in contact with it again. So we're really trying to create what I would call a treatment zone. So think about this for a minute, you know, you tell your customers, your prospects, we're going to dig a six inch wide trench that's six inches deep right up against the foundation wall. Then we're going to put material in that, and that is going to soak down along there till it gets to the top of the footing. Now in some cases, we can't get to the top of the footing that way, we then have to rod down a foot, put more material, rod down another foot with four feet being the maximum, okay. But the whole idea is to protect along the foundation wall, inside or outside, protect along the pier wall, you know, that's what we're trying to do with this kind of thing, all right. And that's really the purpose of the treatment. And you can see some of the more common treatment specs associated with vertical treatment, spec number three. There he is down drilling on the interior, that's like a floating slab. Number 11, which is the sister to three, except it's outside, so if there's a patio, a walkway coming up. Spec 12, your trench and treat. 21C, we're down drilling again, trying to get material along that foundation wall. So these are some of the more common treatments specs for that type of delivery of treatment, okay. So let me do this, let me show you a video of the vertical treatment and then we'll come back and take a look at a couple of the key points. So let's go ahead and check this out. The second application rate we looked at is a vertical barrier applied against the side of a vertical surface. The termiticide is applied using four gallons of diluted termiticide for every ten linear feet to be treated. There could be several places around a home that this rate would be used during a termite treatment. In some situations, we would use liquid only, sometimes liquid and foam together, and sometimes foam only. We will look at liquid applications. Floating slab homes are constructed with an expansion joint around the inside perimeter. This joint is an entryway for termites that must be treated. Often, the treatment must be done from outside the home. This treatment will apply the barrier from the side. But it will still be a vertical barrier against the foundation wall under the slab. This treatment is called short rodding. Doing this treatment properly requires several steps. First, check to be sure there is only one level of floor in the home. Second, find the location for the termiticide application under the slab. Inside, measure from a window sill to the floor. Outside, measure from the same window sill and mark the distance. Add four to six inches for the thickness of the slab. This will be the place to drill. Check the measurements at several places around the home before drilling. Mark a chalk line to keep yourself straight as you go. Drill every eight inches using the Protek II and the depth gauge. Apply liquid termiticide at the rate of four gallons for every ten feet of drill holes. The liquid barrier will also need to be applied in areas like the exterior of the home where the patio or sidewalk meets the house or at the joint between driveway and garage. This type of application will require drilling holes through concrete using the hammer drill with the Protek II and the depth gauge. The holes must be spaced 12 inches apart to ensure the barrier is continuous. For appearance, be sure to make a chalk line before drilling. The liquid termiticide will be applied at the rate of four gallons for every ten linear feet of holes. If the holes will not accept the proper amount of termiticide, you will have to make more than one application. If your calibration showed the treating time to be ten seconds per drill hole, every hole must receive ten seconds of diluted termiticide. Okay, now you saw on that one, you know, pretty much we're going down along the foundation wall. Now one thing I want to point out to you is we never treat with the treating tool beyond the top of the footer. But if the material is in the ground and just kind of seeps its way down and runs off the edge of the footer, that's okay. What we don't want to do is get that treating tool below the top of the footer, 'cause you can blow away some of the soil and weaken the structure, all right. The footing is what holds up the whole structure, okay. So you've got to be very careful of that, in no case do we want to have that happen. So you want to make sure you get that right and not do that. Okay, so couple of best practices you should have picked up from the video. Let's take a look at this. Okay, ground fault interrupter, always. Termite specialists, you never use the draw without the ground fault interrupter. Okay, shocks are not a good thing. We don't want shocks. You've got to minimize that opportunity. Notice the application rate here is four gallons per ten linear feet but there's a new dimension, it's called foot of depth. So in the foundation wall, we just dumped two gallons in there every ten linear feet, and left to go, went down the top of the footing, great. Okay, this one, if the footing's more than a foot underground, you're gonna have to rod to get to the next level. And you can see, we want to put the drill holes in nice straight lines no more than 12 inches apart, otherwise, you'll fail the audit termite specialist, even if it's 12.25 inches, no good. And then we drill about the width of your foot, 2-6 inches out from the foundation wall. And these are details, inspectors, that you need to know so you can tell the folks, you tell somebody we need to drill your patio, they think you're out in the middle of the patio drilling, you know, a winding road, all right, it's not like that. Some termite specialists will snap a chalk line, they'll use a tape measure to mark it off so far off in the wall. Some build like a jigged out, like a four foot 2x4 and they'll all the markings on about every ten inches where the holes need to go. Whatever works for you is what you can do. That's usually the best thing to do, right? So, you know, whatever works for you works for you. So you figure out how you want that to happen but the last thing we don't want is I don't want a row of holes looking like a dog's hind leg, you know, doing the wave, no good. Premium company, we don't do work like that. So we want to make sure that we don't do it. Okay, so that's what we're talking about. Now what is foot of depth? Well, I think we better take a break before we discuss that. We'll come back and take at a look at that. We'll take ourselves our last break of the day, nine minutes. Go refresh, run around the building real quick, get a drink, nonalcoholic of course. And I'll see you back here in the nine minutes. All right, welcome back. I want to talk a little bit more about the concept of foot of depth. Now the definition of foot of depth and you might want to jot this down on page 15 is the distance from the grade to the top of the footing, all right. Now what that means is making it simple, okay, what that means is this. It might be a foot from the top of the grade, down to the footing, if you live in Florida, maybe 18 inches, all right. You live in Minneapolis, it might be four feet, all right. So the depth of footing, you have to cover that whole wall that's there. You have to get that material down along the whole wall with your liquid treatment. So if the top of that footing is four feet down, digging and trenching, sticking, you know, some material in there is not going to get it to where it needs to go. It's not going to absorb down far enough. So we have to do what's call rodding. So we trench and treat, we put a gallon in, and we rod down, we put another, you know, whatever you're putting in each hole, two tenths of gallon, four tenths of a gallon. Then we rod down another foot, we go another four tenths of a gallon, down another foot until we think we've hit the top of the footing. Okay, four feet is about as deep as you can go. And that's what we're talking about when we talk about depth of footer. Now tomorrow, in one of our modules tomorrow, you'll get a better view of that where it's actually calibrated because we're going to talk about volume calculation, how do you determine how much material do you need to do a job. So we will revisit that then, so just kind of keep that concept in your head right now of depth of footer. Your vertical treatment is the only type of treatment that's impacted by depth of footer, all right. Now again, there's a couple of things to keep in mind with that, okay, number one is, you know, if the footing is more than four feet, you're not going to get it. You know, four feet is about it. You're not going to get it much further than that. And you've got to use the rodding equipment. So, termite specialists, if you're not current on what rodding equipment is, you want to try to get current because one of the things you've got to make sure that you never do, never ever, ever, ever, ever, never, never, never do is treat beyond the top of the footing. That is just no good. That's when we can start getting into some trouble, all right. We don't want to do that. Now one of the other things with rodding, okay, and trying to treat soil all that way is the soil type has a lot to do with what goes on there, all right. So let's take a look here. I'm sure you have a little table in your workbook. It looks like this on page 16. You can see in sandy soils what happens is the material is sucked right up, all right. Think about being at the beach, and what happens if you spill your drink? Okay, well, if you spill your drink, it gets sucked right into the sand, you have no hope of getting any of it back, all right. If you have tightly compacted soil like clay soil, okay, that's not an issue, it lays on the top. So what you have to do there is you have to put your rod insertions a little bit further apart. So in sandy soils, if I'm supposed to put, you know, four gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth and I have a hole or I trench it out and I put four-tenths of a gallon here and there, rod down and put another four-tenths, I got to put my rod insertions pretty close. It's going to be sucked right in, which means it's not going to spread. Okay, on the other side, the compacted soil, it's going to tend to spread and cover more ground, you know, horizontally. And you can see it's prone to float on the top of the surface before it actually percolates into the ground. And percolate is nothing more than a fancy word for absorbs into the ground, okay. So that's the whole concept. So we'll just touch upon it here, but then again, we'll look at it again tomorrow. And I think it might make a little bit more sense then for you. Okay, now treatment specs, let's take a look at a couple of treatments specs associated with vertical treatment. Okay, three, you're down drilling your expansion joints. Remember, what's the purpose of a three, I'm trying to get the material down along that foundation walls of termites, try to come up through that expansion joint, they got to come in contact with it. Okay, five is really a horizontal treatment, not quite sure why it's up there. Let's see here. Oh, this is a quiz question. Okay, let's try that and use your tablets and answer the question. Guess I blew that one, didn't I? Got distracted. So we're gonna do a couple of quiz questions, see how much sticks. Everybody votes. Guys, check this one out and see what we have. Okay, not bad, not bad, not bad, okay. Okay, you can see here that obviously for vertical treating, you had the A and D, they're both treating along the foundation wall. Let's try another one. Okay, drill holes should be no more than how many inches apart? Drill holes should be no more than how many inches apart? Just remember, you fail the audit if you get them too far apart. Let's check this one out. And these are in your workbook, so if you didn't figure it out, you can write these down. Okay, looks like almost everybody got this one, okay, very good. Yeah no more than twelve inches apart, otherwise you're gonna have a problem, all right. Let's try other one. Okay, which of the following soils readily accepts liquid? A, Clay, B, Sandy. Readily means very easily. Let's check this one out. Excellent, everybody got it right. I like it. Yeah, I like it, man. This is a good, good thing. Yeah, the sandy soil more readily accepts the liquid. Okay, now we've got one more to talk about, that's trenching, okay. Again, trenching is a form of vertical treatment. Couple of things to keep in mind about trenching, particularly the termite specialist, is that, okay, you're going to use some kind of Maddox or hoe, it's going to be that little six inch wide by six inch deep trench. I'm going to be putting four gallons per ten linear feet, okay, times the footer depth or per foot of depth, okay. And then you always want to remember that, remember, we're a premium company, so we're done with all this treatment around the exterior/interior of a structure, it's like a crawlspace, we need to put all the soil back in the trench that we pulled out of there, no extra. And then treat that soil, you know, make sure it's treated well. And if there's any mulch, push that back as well. We want to make sure we do a neat job with it, okay. And you want to make sure, inspectors, you need to explain this process, you know, you come into my house and you say, "Yeah. And then one of things we're going to have to do, Mr. Prospect, is we're going to have to dig a trench around your house." My eyes are going to get this big 'cause I'm going to think it's a trench like this wide, you know, three or four feet deep like a moat. I don't want a moat around my house, so be very, very specific when explaining to the folks what you're going to do here, all right. So you've got to make sure that you get that right. You have to be able to... Don't assume anybody knows anything. You have to talk to them like they're six years old when it comes to the detail of the cosmetic issues of what this treatment may do to the property, all right. So we're going to make sure we get that right. Otherwise, your termite specialist is going to go there and they're going to get hammered. And that's not going to be a good thing. Okay, they're going to be very, very upset with you. Let's take a look at a video on trenching and then we're going to take a look at couple of points from that. Vertical barriers will be applied with termiticide directly into the soil in several places around the home. Some of the locations that would need a vertical liquid barrier might be against the outside of the foundation or under a crawl home against the inside of the foundation or around the base of piers. The application in these places will require digging a trench against the foundation to be treated. The trench should not be more than six inches wide and it should not be deeper than the top of the footer. The trench is to contain the termiticide. So it doesn't run off from the application area. After the trench has been made, the termiticide is applied. It should be applied to the trench and to the back fill that is replaced in the trench. The depth of the soil from the surface to the footer will determine how the application is done. There are several ways to find the depth to the footer, by digging a hole next to the foundation, by probing down next to the foundation, or by measuring inside the house in a room that is below ground level. If the footer is shallow, less than 12 inches, the trench will usually be treated by liquid termiticide flowing from the end of the treating tool. The application will require four gallons of liquid for every ten linear feet of trench. The amount of time you will treat a ten foot trench will be determined by calibrating the equipment. The soil that was removed from the trench will have to be treated while the trench is being treated. By treating the backfill, we eliminate an untreated bridge over the barrier. If the distance from the soil surface to the footer is deeper than a foot, the termiticide will have to be applied by adding a pointed rodding tool to the end of the treating tool. The application rate of four gallons per ten linear feet of trench will be multiplied by the number of feet to the footer. A footer that is two feet below the soil surface would require eight gallons per ten linear feet. Trench and rod outside foundation walls to a minimum of four feet or to the top of the footer. The rod is pushed into the soil next to the foundation and the termiticide is released as the rod is pushed down to the footer. The termiticide is also released as the rod is withdrawn to the surface. Then the rod is moved over, reinserted, and the treatment is repeated. The distance the rod is moved between insertions would depend on the type of soil. Sandy soils will accept liquid readily, while soils that contain more clay will not accept liquid as easily. The barrier must be continuous. So there cannot be gaps between rod treatments. The distance between rod insertions will have to be determined at the jobsite. When trenching and treating, always check for French drains, and if present, only treat the soil above the drain using caution to ensure that emulsion is not introduced into the drain. Also, remember not to treat when rain is imminent or when soil is wet. Okay, now I see some chats here. People didn't see the video. So let me just do a poll here and if you saw the video, just hit yes, if you didn't see the video, hit no. That way we can get an idea of how many this has impacted. Well, Aubrey, looks like quite a few. Not quite sure what that's all about. Well, why don't we move on 'cause we'll be covering some of this again tomorrow? Because I want to get to the case study. So we're going to move on. I'm sorry that some of you didn't get to see the video. We'll have some more footage tomorrow. I'm not sure why we're getting these technical problems. But let's do a couple of quick review questions here. So just use your tablet, what are some areas you can trench? A, B, C, all of the above, some of the above, none of the above? Let's check this one out 'cause I realize some of you didn't get to see it. Okay, you did pretty good for not seeing. I like it. Okay, everybody got it right. I like that one. Let's try another one here because you've got all the areas right. Let's try this one. So your trenches should be how many inches wide and how many inches deep? And this is an important one so let's make sure we get this one right. Check it out. All right, very good. Almost everybody, just I think one or two folks there. Yeah, it's six inches wide and six inches deep. So just remember six and six and we should be good. All right, I want to get into some practical scenarios here. Some of these are not really scenarios, they're just you have to figure out the treatments spec that goes with the type of treatment that's here. So for example on this one, if we're doing a horizontal treatment, okay, which of these treatments specs reflect horizontal treatment? Remember I said, before we even started this module, do you know your treatment specs. This is why. So if you've got a treatment spec sheet, get your iPad out, you know, whatever it takes to look these up, but, you know, horizontal, first thing you have to ask yourself is what does he mean by horizontal, is that your plumbing penetrations. So let's go ahead and see what you come up with. Yeah, this one is going a little slow, isn't it? Let's take a look at this one. Okay, let's actually look at what the deal is here, all right. Okay, it said which of these is horizontal? Well, five, horizontal is treating your plumbing, like I said before. So five's a plumbing, six is a plumbing, number eight is the alternative. Somebody says, no, you're not drilling through my floor, forget that. And same with E, E is a long rod versus a short rod, and then G is for your crawl space, trenching and treating around soil pipes. Let's try another one. Now this is a little bit different, okay, it says you're treating a floating slab. The graph has a specification number on it, requiring you to treat the bath tub plumbing. What's the spec number? How do we perform the treatment? How does the treatment work? Let's get the spec number, and because our time is always tight, we'll take a look at the other two parts together. So what's the spec number according to this scenario? Somebody chat that in. Okay, we already have an answer here. We've got... So like Darrell says, it's number five. As does William, as does Paul, as does Tyler, as does Evan... As does our unknown user. So let's take a look, I think you'll find that it is five. Now one of the things inspectors you have to better explain to the folks is how we're going to do this? You can't just say, "Hey, we're going to cut a hole in your wall." That's not go over real well, right? So one of things we have to do is we have to install bath trap access. So when you're doing your inspections, if you see no access, that's the first conversation you are going to have to have. So we're going to install bath trap door, we're going to drill down through the floor and get the material underneath the slab. They don't need to know what the rate is, okay, 'cause that's not going to, you know, really, that's just going to create more questions. "Well, how come you're only using one gallon per ten square feet when my wall voyager's using two gallons for ten linear feet?" You know, and they're going to get all wrapped around the axle on this one, so just skip that part, all right. And then, you know, tell them we're trying to get the material around the pipes underneath, okay, for that reason. So that's the whole deal with the scenario. We're installing the bath trap so we can treat the plumbing, so we can treat the plumbing. Now how does it kill the termites? Somebody chat the answer into that. I gave it to you earlier in the module. I gave it to you earlier in the module. How does it kill termites? Okay, the transfer effect. Yeah, remember, it's a contact sport. All it has to do is get it on, it's not like they can go take a shower or wash the stuff off, okay. So very good, our unknown caller says contact sport as well. So yeah, it's going to be the same way for all these. Termidor is absorbed through the system, it's ingested, and that's how it kills them, all right. They don't die right away. It takes a few days. We want to give them time to transfer it to their friends and family because we know their behavior, it's based on science. Okay, all right, let's take a look at another scenario here and let's see this one. Okay, it says... Guess if I put the slide up, you might be able to... Oops. Hold on. There you go, back one. Okay, you treat a crawlspace, and according to the graph, you need to treat the drain line that comes out of the property and into the soil. What's the treatment spec? What's the treatment spec? Okay, Mr. Unknown has it, as does Joshua, it's 16. The treatment spec is 16. This is trench and treat piers and soil pipes. If you didn't know that, so it goes back to this one. You know, we're going to dig a 6x6 inch trench around the pipe. And here you can kind of see the visual representation of it. We're going to put one gallon of Termidor in that trench. As it absorbs down through, once it's absorbed, then we're going to backfill the trench and treat the soil on top of it. And that's it. That's the treatment. So there's no really any huge cosmetic issues here that anybody should get all worked up over. But, you know, you just never know. All right, let's try another one. Okay, this one says which are void treatment specs? All right. Okay, voids, your foundation walls, your veneers. So let's go ahead and answer that one a while. Let's start out... Well, just make all your... It's a little bit different, so just make your tablet choices. Ooh, this looks like a hard one, not getting a lot of action. Yeah, looks like we're struggling on this one. We are struggling big time. Let's take a look at this one 'cause it looks like a lot of you are having difficulty, all right... Although the bar graph doesn't show that. Interesting. Let's take a look at these. Okay, void treatments, again, are your foundation walls, okay, or your veneers, so we've gotten 9. well, we know we treat hollow block with 9, 17 is your double brick, 18 is your triple brick, 20 is your stone foundation, 22 is your chimneys, your masonry chimneys, and 26 is your brick or stone veneer. Six is a horizontal treatment for plumbing as is eight. Twelve is a vertical treatment and sixteen is a horizontal treatment... And ten is a horizontal treatment. So this one's a little bit more challenging. Let's go back to a scenario, okay. See if we can do a little bit better on this. Okay, this one says you're treating a partially supported slab with a hollow block foundation wall. You are to treat inside the foundation wall where the infestation is located. So what's the treatment spec... if I have to treat in the foundation wall? Okay, looks like we've got number nine. Number nine, number nine, number nine. We've got a number three, too. But I think you'll find it's number nine. Remember, it's a hollow block foundation wall. I got 26 here, too, that's brick veneer. Let's take a look at this one. Okay, here you see I'm drilling the hollow block foundation wall, so specification number nine is the correct response. Again, remember, you can't drill any higher than two courses a block or eighteen inches and were drilling into the mortar joints, not the block itself. So the material drops into the voids. And the application rate is two gallons per ten linear feet, which you are not going to share with the prospect 'cause they don't need to know that. And the whole idea is the termiticide gets in the block void and runs down to the top of the footing. Sometimes we foam these as well. It depends. Okay, let's go to our next one. But before we go to the next one, I want to just ask this question, how many of you are starting to get the idea on how you have to think on these? Yeah, Tim, I'm getting it. No, I'm not. Yep. I am. I am. Okay, everybody but one. All right, let's take a look at the next one. This one says you are treating an infestation in an exterior wall of a floating slab with brick veneer. What's the spec number? Now this is a little bit of a tricky one. You're treating an infestation in an exterior wall of a floating slab with brick veneer. Okay, I got a number 26 is here. Let's go check this out. Now this is a little bit of a tricky one 'cause it could be two answers, depending on how you interpret this, all right. Now according to this scenario, it's 26. But remember again the scenario, if you really listen to the scenario, it says that you have an infestation in an exterior wall. That's the foundation wall, right, of a floating slab with brick veneer where you'd have to treat the foundation wall as well. So if it was hollow block, you'd do a nine, then you'd also have to treat the brick veneer, which would be a 26. But it's just a little bit of a tricky question. So... I thought I'd settle that with you. So looks like most of you have selected 26. And as you can see here, that's what it is. Okay, again, we're going to drill into the mortar joint, not the brick itself... Two gallons per ten linear feet, no foot of depth. And the whole idea is to get it in the void there. Now one of things you're going to find on treatment plans on Thursday is if I had an infestation in that foundation wall, I'd have to trench on the outside, which is a 12. I'd have to do the brick veneer, which is 26, I'd have to treat the hollow block, which is nine. I'd have to trench and treat the interior of the foundation as well, which is a 12. So I have 12, 26, 9, and 12, 'cause one of things you have to keep in mind is every time you have a termite infestation, you have to treat every conceivable entry way that termites come in. But we'll talk more about that on Thursday. All right, let's try this next one. Okay, which are vertical treatment specs? Okay, vertical treatment, now get your... Think about what do you mean vertical treatment. Page 24. Yeah, looks like we're struggling a little bit on this one, too. Just a bit. Let's check this one. We are not... Okay, you know, not as good as we would like, but, you know, let's take a look at this vertical treatment, treating along the foundation walls, okay, you down drill an interior expansion joint with three. Number eight is the alternative to three, if somebody will not let you drill through their tile or cut their vinyl or pull their carpet back. F, 11, is the opposite of 3, it's outside, they're sisters. So 3 and 11 are the same thing, one's inside, one's outside. You're trenching and treating is a vertical treatment. You're treating a dirt filled porch, 21C is a vertical treatment, 'cause you're trying to get the material down along the foundation wall. All right, well, let's go and try another scenario. Okay, you're treating a home with a crawlspace. There's a concrete patio that needs to be drilled. What's the spec? Crawlspace with a patio out back. Oh, interesting, 19. I don't think there is a treatment spec 19. Okay, we've got number 11, we've got 21C, 21D. We've got all kinds of options here. Okay, number 11 showed up again, 21C showed up again. All right, let's take a look at this one... 'Cause I think you... I want to make sure you understand why it is what it is? So this one, the correct response is specification number 11. Okay, it said there's a patio, okay, remember, the patio butts up against the foundation. So that creates an expansion joint when you have two pieces of concrete coming together. So this is going to be a number of 11, okay. It's not a dirt filled porch, it's a patio. So I'm going to drill those holes 12 inches apart, not more than 12 inches, 2-6 inches out or the width the my foot, going to do four gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth from the top of the soil to the top of the footing. Now again, termite specialists, you have to find the top of the footing. It may be a different depth on each side of that structure. Oh, and by the way, how do the termites die? Somebody chat that in again. How do those termites die? Are they overcome with grief? No, it's a contact sport. Excellent, I like it. Okay, they share it. They get it in their bodies, it's a contact sport. So very good. Let's go to our next scenario. Okay, this one says you're treating a floating slab with an infestation on an exterior wall. You need to drill the concrete slab on the inside. So what's the spec going to be? This is another one that could be a little tricky. But not for this group. You've got it figured out. The three's come rolling in. Let's take a look at this one. Okay, yeah. This is one of those where you have to drill that expansion joint 'cause that's pretty much how they're getting in unless they came up through the hollow block, which is also a possibility. But again, we have to pull the carpet back, we have to cut through vinyl, get those little pieces up, drill the holes, do the treatment down through there, rod down to the top of the footing. They don't need to know, four gallons per ten linear feet per foot of depth, you'll blow them away with that. Top of their heads will blow off. And that's pretty much it. Contact sport again. Try to get the material along that foundation wall, the top of the footing. So if termites come into contact with it, they're going to have to touch it. And that's the kiss of death, literally. Now just a reminder, technicians, when you drill through concrete floors, okay, we do not use corks, we use super plugs, or we use triple seal plugs. Never put cork in there, it's a cellulose material. So if you happen find a bag of corks laying around your branch somewhere, don't use them. All right, well, let's try another one. Yeah, I got an endless supply for you. Okay, you are treating a property that is a basement/crawl combination. You must treat along the outside of the foundation wall around the entire property in areas with soil. What's the treatment spec number? Man, you guys ought to eat this one up. This is the easiest one you've had. What was that all about? Is that the request you had for me? Okay, let's see what we've got here. Well, I'm seeing a lot of 12s here. Now before I give you the answer, our unknown caller, who's chatting in with the spec, who says that there... What is it, Aubrey? Their chat function doesn't... Say it doesn't work, so you're calling, you are putting your answers in through a request like this. You need to chat in your name, your branch location number. And if you're on a tempo tablet or a computer so that they can figure out why your chat doesn't work, all right. So, Mr. Unknown, that's what I need you to do, okay. So using the same function, okay, name, branch number, location where you're viewing from, are you on a computer or are you on a tablet. If you would do that, that would be most helpful in resolving your problem. Now we said 12 was the correct response. Let us check this out and see if that's in fact true. Oh, man, I can't fool these guys, Aubrey, they're too much. Yeah, we're trenching and treating, okay, six inch wide, six inch deep trench. Remember, you got to treat the backfill before you put it back in there. We're trying to get down to the top of the footer so we got to trench deep enough. And if we can't get deep enough to get to the top of the footer, then we're going to rod it and that might be a little tough inside a crawlspace. But we have to try, do our best that we get that material down to the top of the footing. So that was excellente. Everybody got that one right. I like it. Okay, looks like... That's all the scenarios I have for you. I know it's probably breaking your heart not to have a couple more. I hope you get the idea now, liquid treatment, you know, just doing the Termidor treatment, we can do it horizontally, which is to treat the plumbing, we can do voids, which is to treat the foundation wall voids or the veneers, brick and stone veneer, okay, we can do vertical treatment, which is down drilling through patios, through expansion joints, and we're trying to get the material down along the foundation wall inside or outside as well as in piers. And then trenching is another form of vertical drilling, okay. And that's pretty much how that plays. Now you've got a little action plan thing in the back of your book and there are some... What you need to do is you need to start studying the Termite Expectations manual. I'm going to ask you tomorrow how many of you did that. I'm going to ask you again on Thursday. So let's start trying to knock out a couple of these every night or every day before you come here, all right. Inspectors, you want to know why we do what we do, okay. Technicians, you have to know how to implement those treatment specs. What's the process? And the Termite Expectations manual tells you that. It gives you drawings, it shows you, it explains for you what that is. So again, we're a premium company, people expect a premium treatment. We don't want guys out there like scratching their heads like, what do I do now? So, you know, take it seriously. If this is your profession, then you want to be very good at it, if you want to work in the major leagues of pest control, which is what Orkin is. Okay, any questions before I let you go. Let me just put out a survey while I'm waiting for any questions. How many of you think this was helpful to you in understanding how we do liquid treatment, particularly on the termite specialist side since you have to do it, okay? The format with the scenarios, was that helpful, trying to get the point where you have to actually apply it? Okay, it looks like quite a few people felt this was a pretty good way to go. 'Cause remember, we're trying to get this to stick for you so you don't end up, you know, making some mistakes out in the field rather we make them here and do it that way. Okay, Aubrey, here's the information you were looking for. Harrison, Virginia, he's on a computer. Said their tablets are down 'cause the tempo boxes broke down. So that might explain some of that. Okay, Mr. Unknown, thank you for the information, try to get you fixed up here now. Aubrey's got a little bit more information that would be helpful. Just a reminder, tomorrow, I will be starting again at 12 o'clock and we have two modules tomorrow. Both those modules are going to be geared to the termite specialist. Inspectors, it doesn't mean that you shouldn't show up 'cause you need to know what they're doing. We're going to first be talking about volume calculation. Everybody bring a computer, bring a phone with a computer, bring an iPad, you know, with some kind of calculator on it because we're going to be doing some math with that module, okay. And that will be 12:00 to 2:00, and then we're going to start back up at 2:30 and do mixing in foam, which is another technology that we use that our termite specialists need to know, why we use it, how we use it, how we actually mix this stuff before you go practice it. So that'll be our schedule for tomorrow. So make sure you bring some kind of calculator so you can do the math. And looks like I don't have any questions, so it looks like it's time to let you all go. So I will do that. Everybody have a good evening. Let's learn a couple of those treatments spec tonight and we'll see how you do tomorrow. So everybody have a good evening. I'll see you tomorrow at noon.