NHT Day 07 05 Liq Delivery
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Well, welcome to our module
on liquid delivery treatment, okay.
This is going to be
an interesting module
because we're going to talk about
what is liquid treatment,
why do we use it,
how do we do it,
how does it work,
and we're talking
Termidor here, okay.
So this is strictly
a liquid treatment,
nothing more.
Now one of the questions
I've put out here to you was
do you know your treating specs,
because from this module on,
every module we have is going
to have some kinds of questions
regarding treatment specs.
So I'm just kind of curious,
I want to put out
a question here.
Some of you do know
your treatment specs.
Not only do you know them,
you know, by number,
but you know
why we do what we do.
I'm just kind of curious,
so let's check that out
and see what your
response is to that.
Well, not looking so good.
All right, 50-50
right now at this point.
You know, if you're
going to treat a structure,
you best know what we're
talking about with those codes
that are put on the graph.
So right now
we've got less than half
that know their treatments spec.
So I would make that
a challenge to you
for the rest of the week that,
go to the section 600
in the Termite Expectations
manual
and not just read it
but study it and know your
basic treatment specs.
There's about 15 or 16
we use pretty regularly
and you'll see those showing up.
All right, so that's
what we'll do with that.
And then hopefully, each day
you'll get a little bit better,
all right,
little bit better is good.
Let's take a look
at our objectives
for this module.
Okay, couple of things
we want to accomplish here.
Okay, first thing is
we're going to take a look
at the four methods
for delivering
a liquid treatment.
There's really three methods,
the forth one's is
kind of part of another one,
but nevertheless, it's a method.
And we're going to take a look
at what treatment specs
should be applied
in given situations.
I'm going to give you
some real life scenarios here
so that you can actually apply
what we're going to be
talking about.
And then we're going
to take a look at explaining
how we perform the treatment
in a given situation.
I've got seven or eight
actual real world scenarios
for the later on in the module,
after we do
some of the basic stuff here,
where you're going to get
to apply this.
So I would really pay
very, very close attention.
And then describe
how the treatment works
in a given situation.
So we're going to be looking
really at three things
with that,
okay,
what's the treatments spec,
what's the process of delivering
that treatments spec,
and then how does it kill
the termites,
which is pretty interesting,
at least once, okay.
All right,
now with that being said,
I want to put a question
out here.
And don't misconstrue
the question, okay.
I don't want
a treatment spec number,
what I want is a definition.
What's a treatment spec?
Who's going to come up
with something for us here,
okay?
Oh, I like this.
Look at this guy,
look at this Louise already.
Okay, code for the tech
to designate a particular method
for applying materials
in a given situation.
That must be in your workbook
'cause it's word for word
as the slide
that's going to come up
here next.
So a very good job
of finding that
in your workbook, okay.
Where we treat and how we treat?
Yeah, it's pretty much
as Louise said, you know,
the treatment spec numbers
are codes.
So termite specialists,
when you see 12 on a graph,
you say, "Ah, trench and treat."
You immediately
make the association
with the code.
So the code tells you
where to do a particular method
for a given situation.
So that's right on, okay.
Okay, do commercial techs
have to attend this module?
No.
Commercial techs
are in pest control.
This is termite control
that we're doing right now.
Okay, so no,
the commercial technicians
are dealing with pest control.
You're welcome to stay
if you want,
I don't care,
if you happen to be
in the same branch
where you have somebody there.
But no, you're not required
to do that, okay.
Not that I wouldn't
welcome you with open arms.
So, you know,
the treatment specs
are the codes, they tell us
what we need to do here,
all right.
Now that kind of leads me
into the next question.
So why do we put these
treatment specifications...
Why do we use
these treatments specifications
on our graphs?
Let's get a couple of thoughts
on that.
What do you think?
So why do we use these
treatment specs on our graph?
It's not just one thing,
all right.
Okay, document the type
and location of the treatment.
Louise, you're doing great.
You have the answers
or something
that you're coming up
word for word here.
It must be in your workbook.
It must be on page two.
But that's correct.
Okay, what else?
Okay minimize misunderstands.
Yeah, I like that, William.
What we've got here
is a failure to communicate.
You know, we don't want that,
all right.
You know, we've got to make sure
we've got
open communication here,
so termite, you know,
the inspectors,
when you put that
treatments back on there,
you want to make sure
it's the right one.
We talked about that
in the last module
that we don't misguide or end up
doing the wrong thing here.
Okay, so the tech knows,
I don't have to deliver
the treatment.
Yes.
Yeah, exactly.
Yes, you guys
are on the right track.
I like that.
Very good job.
Let's take a look at it.
I think you've gotten
most of these.
Okay, obviously,
we have to document
the type and location
of the treatment that we apply.
Remember,
this is a legal document,
the graphs that we have to put
the treatment specs on.
And, inspectors,
you might put treatment specs on
if your termite
specialist decides
to do something different.
They have to take any specs off
that they do not do, all right.
And, termite specialists,
you need to realize that.
Or if they decide
to do something
because it's just a better way
to do it,
maybe to avoid
some of those cosmetic issues,
then they're
going to do that, too.
Okay, you know,
we also want to indicate
to the specialists
what type of treatment we want.
What they have to do,
and this is really a challenge
to you termite specialists,
so I'll give you the heads up,
learn those treatments specs
by Thursday
because we're going to talk
about treatment plans
and there's
a couple different options
of how you can treat.
Okay, and we talk about
a Perimeter Plus versus
a direct liquid bait versus
a liquid treatment versus
the Sentricon HD,
that type of thing.
And a lot of times,
you have to identify,
just by the treatment specs
are on there,
what kind of program
that inspector
really wants you to do?
So we want to make sure
we find out for that reason,
too.
And then going back
to the slide,
there's a couple other points
on here.
Okay, the whole idea
of providing a visual image
for the prospect.
Inspectors, you're going to get
questions like this.
Well, you know, what are these
numbers on here?
Now we don't want to get
into the numbers, believe me,
if you want to really
screw up somebody's head,
we're going to do
12 around here.
That means nothing
to your prospects.
All you have to tell them is,
"Hey, these are codes
for the termite specialist."
So they know
what I want them to do,
treatment wise,
to fix your problem.
And then just in layman's terms,
explain what you're going to do
and do it that way.
Okay, so those are really,
you know, the reasons
why we're doing that.
Now when we talk about
treatment here,
we're talking about Rollins,
we're talking about
the way we do it here,
okay, not necessarily, you know,
I think Jim probably
talked about rule states,
minimum standard states,
where you've got to meet
their standards,
and if they're stricter
than ours,
we definitely have to meet them.
So, you know,
we're not talking about that.
We're talking about
strictly how we do things.
That's why we have
a Termite Expectations manual
that you can get online
if you go to My Orkin
and go to the Technical Services
area,
click on Manuals,
and there it is.
But I would
start checking that out
and start getting it
up here in the library,
and make sure
you get it right, okay.
'Cause some states do require
additional treatment
above and beyond what we...
And we believe
we're very strict.
Some states require even
a little bit more than that.
So you might want to check
with your branch
and see if you live
in a minimum treatment state,
you know, or a standard state
and do that.
Okay,
so that's a couple of things
to keep in mind.
You know, also, if you operate
more than one state, folks,
you got to make sure
that you know
the standards in each state,
because sometimes
you're right on the border,
so you may cover
part of your state
and then you go across the line
to cover part of another state,
we got to make sure
we get that right.
Okay, all right,
now then next question,
this is always
a challenging one.
Let's just see
if we can come up here.
And the question is
what are the four methods
for delivering liquid treatment?
Just think about
liquid treatment at this point.
Don't think
anything beyond that.
You know,
what are the four methods,
let's get a couple of chats
going on this.
What are the four methods?
Well, look at Peter
just rapping them out here.
He's got all of them, okay.
Okay,
we got horizontal treatment,
void treatment,
vertical treatment,
trenching treatment.
Very good.
I have to tell you guys...
You're doing all right, okay,
'cause everybody has got
something here, okay.
Trench, void.
Yeah, those are really
the four, okay.
So this is an exceptional group,
Aubrey, you know.
So yeah, you've got the four.
Here they are.
Now let's just,
what I want to do
is I want to look at each
one of these individually
and make sure that everybody
is clear on it, okay,
'cause, you know,
you get four options
up here on the board, right,
now you may need to perform
all four of these
or maybe just two of them
or maybe just one,
it really depends on
what kind of problems you have,
what kind of treatment plan
that you're using, all right.
So it really depends on that.
And so we're going to cover
treatment plans again,
like I said, on Thursday
in the Treatment Plan module.
And so you're
going to need to know
those treatment specs again.
But let's just,
just to make sure
everybody gets it,
I want to take
each one of these individually
and make sure you're
clear about it, all right.
So let's take a look
at horizontal first, all right.
Horizontal is interesting
because the treatment
is not really horizontal, okay.
If I'm drilling down
through a slab,
the tree
of plumbing penetration,
it's not really, doesn't really
seem to be horizontal.
But you have to look
at the ultimate outcome.
All we're trying to do
is get the material
and you'll see all of these
but 16 relate to slabs.
All we're trying to do is
get the material
down around the pipes,
under the slab, okay,
because termite treatment
is kind of like football.
And I want you
to remember this concept.
It's a contact sport.
You know, Termidor doesn't kill
termites on contact.
It's not like, "Oh, jeez.
That's it, friend.
I'm out of here."
It takes time
because they use the process
called the transfer effect,
all right.
So the whole idea is
they get it on their bodies,
they eat the cellulose
fibers with that
or they come in contact with it
in the ground
and then
they absorb it dermally,
and then through their
social nature
of grooming each other
and sharing food,
both mouth to mouth feeding
as well as anaphylaxis,
I'll let you figure out
what that is.
That's how they transfer it.
Then I start infecting
my friends and family
and we start to reduce
the size of the colony.
So the whole idea
with horizontal
is to get it
just underneath the slab,
you know, termites are unique
and that they follow
plumbing penetrations
and, you know, tree roots.
You know, they hit a tree root,
they'll follow
right to the tree,
they hit a plumbing pipe,
they'll follow
right into the structure
because they're small enough
that they can make
that work for them, okay.
So you can see some of
the common treatment specs
that go with horizontal is 5
like treating your bath traps
and drilling down
through the concrete
inside the bath trap area
to get the pipes underneath,
okay,
and then you've got your,
you know, you're down drilling
for all your other plumbing,
specification number 6,
so 5 and 6
are very commonly used.
So you want to get
those down faster.
And then, you know,
number 8 is an alternative
to number 6, okay.
Somebody says, "No, no, no.
There's no way you're drilling
through my tile floor,
that's not going to happen."
Then we may have to use
an alternative treatment
like a short rod going through
the foundation wall
to get the material
down along there
or maybe even a long rod
for trying to get
underneath the tub
as it's plumbing
at the other end,
that type of thing.
And 16 is trench and treating
piers and soil pipes.
So crawlspace, you have,
you know,
main sewage line coming out,
you have a main
water line coming out,
it's to make sure that we get
the material around there.
All right, so those
are some of the examples
you might want to note
that those are horizontal
treatment specs
'cause that's what they are.
Now what might be some examples
of plumbing penetrations?
Get a couple of
quick chats on this
and see what your thoughts are.
This is on page five.
Okay, supply lines. That's one.
Drain pipes, HBAC lines, okay.
Think of the more common ones.
Yeah, you've got your bathtubs,
you've got your
bathroom plumbing,
you've got your
kitchen sink plumbing.
So it's that kind of stuff
that we're talking about,
your wet bars, you know,
where you've got
some running water and a drain,
maybe an automatic icemaker line
coming out there,
so the typical plumbing
penetrations
or the tubs, the bathroom,
the kitchen sinks,
the washing machine supply,
you know, that's been
coming up there as well.
So these are all
examples of that.
Now this next slide,
it kind of shows you
where we're trying to get
the material, okay.
Again, we're trying
to get the material
to wrap around the pipe
horizontally.
So we don't need to go deep,
we just need
to get that material
right underneath the slab
and around the pipe.
Or in the case of a crawlspace,
you know, saturate that soil
that's wrapped
right around the pipe.
So we dig out the trench,
we dump a gallon of material
in there,
it absorbs down
along that pipes,
so they have to come
in contact with it.
So if termites try to enter,
obviously,
they're going to have
to come in contact,
that's why it's like football.
You can see the red area
on the slide,
that's the Termidor,
they can't avoid it.
When you have it wrapped
around a pipe like that,
they cannot avoid it.
Now you can see
the application rate
is one gallon
per ten square feet.
Now again, this is the least
amount of material
that we would use
in any kind of treatment.
Okay, one gallon
per ten square feet,
'cause I just need
to get that material
wrapped around that pipe,
I don't need a whole lot of it,
all right.
I don't need a whole lot of it.
So I hope that red shows you
that's really where we're
trying to get the material
to go to.
Now there are some other factors
that impact that,
that we'll talk about
a little bit later, okay.
Now with that being said,
we're going to take a look
at a little video
here on this horizontal treatment.
So let's a look at this and then
I'll ask you some question.
So let's see what it says.
First kind of barrier
we mentioned earlier
was a horizontal barrier.
This is made by letting
the termiticide flow
across the surface of the soil.
Usually, this will be done
under a concrete slab.
A horizontal barrier
with liquid termiticide
is used in slab homes at a place
called the bath trap.
When the slabs are poured,
the builders leave an opening
in the concrete
for the plumber to install
the tub or drain.
This kind of opening
would let the termites in easily
if it weren't protected.
Many times, there is
an access door in the wall
behind the opening in the slab.
If there is an access,
we are ready to treat.
If not, we have to make
an opening in the wall
on the backside of the tub
or fixture
that has to be treated.
In the bathroom,
measure the distance
from the tub faucet
to the corner.
Then, on the back side
of the wall,
measure the same distance
from the same corner.
This is the center
of the plumbing
and it's the location
of the opening in the slab.
Using the keyhole saw,
cut the sheet rock
above the baseboard.
Make the cut out
as large as necessary
to allow the access door
to be installed
when you're finished treating.
If this cutout
is in a hidden place
like a closet,
it can be covered with a vent.
The cutout still needs
to be large enough
to allow inspection next year.
Once the opening is made,
we apply the termiticide
using the black plastic
compressed air sprayer.
Using this instead of the hose
helps prevent
splashing termiticide
on the lumber and sheet rock
inside the access.
The termiticide is applied
at the rate of
one gallon of liquid
for every ten feet of soil
to be covered.
After the treatment is finished,
install the access door
or the vet.
In slab homes,
plumbing and utilities
penetrate the slab
in many places.
When the concrete was poured
around the pipes,
a tiny gap was left.
In addition,
the concrete develops cracks
as it dries.
Each of these places
is a potential entryway
for termites.
And so each plumbing penetration
and crack must be protected.
Plumbing penetrations
will be found in places like
bathroom shower, lavatories,
kitchen sinks, laundry areas,
water heaters, wet bars,
and the ventilation pipes
for drains.
Finding all the penetrations
require some detective work
because the walls are hiding
most of the pipes.
Sometimes,
by filling sinks with water
and listening
as the water drains,
you can determine
where the drain goes.
Sometimes, looking at the roof
from outside
will show you the location
of the vent pipe.
But sometimes
finding the location
that needs treating requires
a crawl through the attic.
Be very careful when inspecting
for these drain vents.
Cracks in the slab
are another place
where a horizontal barrier
can be effective
for blocking termites.
Cracks are not always obvious
during the initial inspection,
but some signs
will help you find them.
Cracks in walls are a clue
that the slab may be cracked.
Treating cracks in the slab
requires a horizontal barrier
to be placed
under the entire crack.
To do this,
drill through the slab
along the entire length.
Make the holes
about four feet apart,
begin treating
at the center hole.
Okay, saw several things there,
okay, just a couple of things.
First of all,
I'd like to thank Stormy
for letting us use her bathroom,
you kind of see
she has that retro look
with the mob toilet and the tub
and she really likes
that a lot so she's not here,
she's not hearing me say this
but you can see that
there are the certain things
you want to make sure you do.
And just a couple of
kind of tips off of that,
kind of what we call
best practices.
You know, obviously,
you've got to make sure,
termite specialists,
that you don't hit a pipe.
Are you going to be perfect?
Probably, not, all right.
That's why we need
that water shut off, okay.
So you can see
there was a couple things
there in the video,
fill the sink with water,
try to figure out where it goes.
You know, a lot of times in the,
particularly, when you have
these double vanities,
okay, the drain is not
directly going into the slab
below the sink,
it might be in the middle
where both sinks are draining
into one drain line.
So you've got to check that out
and spend more time, not less,
trying to do that.
The other thing is, you know,
you can follow the vent stack,
they run the vent pipes
up to get rid of the methane.
And, you know,
you check it in the roof.
Now unfortunately,
in some of the newer buildings,
they're not running them up
through the roof.
If the attic is significantly
sized,
it gets enough air in there,
they'll just run it up
into the attic, all right.
So you may literally
have to go up in the attic
and find out
if there's a vent pipe
that's exiting in the attic,
okay,
to give you a better idea
where these drains are.
But take the time to do that
before you get that Hilti out,
okay,
and start, you know,
drilling holes
and hitting water lines, okay.
So let's make sure
that we don't do that.
Remember, once you hit a pipe,
now you've got to explain
to the customer
and we have to fix it obviously
and make it right
and so we make sure
that we do that.
Okay, you saw settlement cracks,
you know, you get those,
we drill
on either side of those,
we put foam in there,
in case there's any voids
underneath that
settlement crack,
'cause you never know
what's under the ground,
you know, we treat
a whole lot more by faith
than we do by sight, okay.
And then the other thing
I want you to keep in mind
is you saw the guy
at a B&G there.
That's not how we treat
a bath trap area.
If you've got a drain pipe,
or water lines,
that are stuck
in like a dirt box,
sometimes what they do is they
frame out this little box
with dirt in it,
save a little wiggle room
with the tub,
all right, and, you know,
you can dump a gallon
of Termidor down there.
But it's not just a little
squirt-squirt with a B&G.
That doesn't take care of it.
So make sure you check
with your service manager
and find out, you know,
how do they expect
you to do this,
and make sure you're using
the proper amount of material.
One gallon per ten square feet,
so if I've got a dirt box
where I need to dump
a gallon of Termidor in there
so it absorbs down in that soil
right around the pipes.
So again, when they try
to come up through there,
they've got to come in contact
with it.
Sometimes you have to drill
through the floor,
like for toilets,
like for sinks.
And it's still one gallon
per ten square feet.
And ten square feet,
it's like a two foot wide
by five foot deep tub.
So, you know, that's pretty much
what ten square feet is
or a three foot
by three foot area,
a little bit more than that,
and do it that way.
Okay,
so those are some of the things
you have to keep in mind
with the horizontal treatment.
Now with that being said then,
this again gets back
to what we talked about
in the last module,
this whole water shut off thing.
Inspectors, make sure
you mark it on the graph,
you find it.
Specialists, make sure you know
where it is
before you start drilling.
Once you hit the pipe,
it's too late, okay.
You know,
you don't drill one hole
until you know
where that water shut off is
'cause you know what?
Yeah, okay, you know,
we're going to make it right,
you know, I get that.
Okay, I get that pretty easily.
But remember,
you're inconveniencing
the customer.
And while we may make a right,
that's the memory
they're going to have of you,
termite specialist,
that you hit a pipe.
So we don't want to have that,
okay.
Okay, so that's pretty much
the horizontal treatment.
What questions do you have?
Okay, a live screen.
Do you see this question,
Aubrey.
Live.
Okay, Aubrey will try
to help you out with that
or tell you
what may be causing that
or what's happening.
He's the technical brain,
not me, okay.
Okay, so let's move onto voids.
Okay, so what do we mean
by void treatment?
So what are some
examples of voids
that termites
might use to enter?
Let's get a couple of chats
going on that.
Okay, brick veneer,
okay, hallow block,
okay, Vents.
All right, we're really talking
about voids not the vents,
you'll see in a minute,
doesn't really apply.
Okay, hollow block.
Yeah, it's any kind of wall void
everybody.
Okay, we're talking
wall voids here
or some kind of veneer,
so you have brick veneer,
you have stone veneer,
you can do that.
So these are the kinds of things
we get.
So here are some examples,
you have a hollow block
foundation wall,
termites are gonna come up
through the core,
they'll come up
the brick veneer there,
they'll come up
through piers that have,
you know, cores in the center
like on the upper left there.
Stone veneer,
they'll get behind the gap
between the stone
and the hollow block.
So termites,
one of their easiest ways
to get in is through voids.
Also, not shown here,
is your double brick
foundation walls,
your triple brick
foundation walls,
your stone foundation walls
that go back really too much
older types of structures, okay.
And that's what we're talking
about here.
You know,
termites come up brick veneer,
you know, they just,
they come up in between
the foundation wall
and the brick veneer,
there's a gap there
all the time.
And that's how they get in.
So we need to take a little bit
more of a look at this.
So we're going to start out
with hollow block, yeah.
Hollow block
has two options to it,
you can either have
a two core hollow block
or you can have
a three core hollow block.
Now, termite specialists,
one of the first things
you need to do is figure out
what kind of block is it.
Is it two core or three core?
The way you tell
the cinder block
is 16 inches wide.
So if I drill from the edge
to the center eight inches,
if I drill that block
on the left,
I'm going to keep drilling
and drilling and drilling
and drilling,
'cause I'm hitting
the center post
of the cores there.
If I go eight inches
to the center of the block
on the right,
I'm going to pop
right into the middle core
of the block.
That's how you tell.
You have to make that decision
before you start treating.
Now I'm just kind of curious.
What's the treatment spec
for treating hollow blocks?
Somebody chat that in.
Let's see
who'll be the first one
here to get that,
first one to get
the treatment spec
for treating a hollow block.
Holy cow, nobody knows it yet.
That one just popped right out.
Okay, number five.
No, that's not it.
Okay, Steve, you got it right,
down in Toledo.
Number nine, you treat the cores
of hollow block foundation walls
with a nine,
you also treat the cores
of hollow block piers
with a nine.
So it's treatment spec nine.
Now again, remember,
your block is 16 inches wide,
8 inches high,
and 8 inches deep, all right,
and that's pretty much to say.
Now there is a 10 inch block
out there,
okay,
kind of an oversized block.
So you may have to be aware
of that as well, all right.
Now let me just show you
another slide here.
Let's take a look
'cause there's a couple rules
you have to follow here.
Okay, the first thing is that
you cannot drill any higher
than 18 inches above the grade,
whether you're inside
or outside.
So if I'm treating the inside
of a crawlspace foundation,
well,
I'm got to follow the grade
'cause maybe it's got
a little slope to it.
I can't be more than
18 inches up.
On the outside, it can't be
more than 18 inches up.
Now how high is that?
Well, that's about
two courses a block,
you know, 8 inches
and 8 inches is 16,
you've got
a half inch mortar joint.
So it's 16.5, you've got
a half inch mortar joint
on the top of the second course,
that's 17 inches.
Now in this example,
here you can see
that there's
two holes per block, all right.
There's actually a hole,
looks like two holes missing.
But let me show you
on the next one.
It's a little easier to see.
Okay, now if you notice
on the one in the right,
especially the two blocks
by the vents there on each side,
there's two holes there.
Now this is the deal.
And, termite specialists,
you want to remember this,
it will save you some work,
if you choose to drill
the first row a block
above grade,
you're going to have to drill
an extra hole for every block
because if you notice
on the left side there,
the first row,
you see three holes.
Now I want to go fast forward
here a couple of slides
because I think this will
give you a better idea.
So let's go to this one.
You see there to the left
of the number one,
you see those blocks
are not flat on the end,
are they?
No.
They've got that little concave,
so when you put
two blocks together,
you have another void there.
So if you're going
to want to treat
the first level of hollow block,
you know,
the mortar joint above it,
you're gonna have to drill
three holes,
you have to drill
that little small void
where the two blocks
come together,
then the core,
first core where the one is,
and in the second core
to the right of the one.
Then you see
where the two blocks
come together,
I got to drill that again
and the next two cores.
I'm adding an extra drill hole
for every block
which could be quite
substantial for you
if you have a rather large house
that you have to go after,
all right.
Let me get this back
to where I had you before.
If you go to option number two
on the right,
if you go to the second row,
you don't have to drill
that void
where the two blocks meet.
You see here, we're just
drilling the two voids
in the hollow block,
we're not drilling
where the vertical line goes up
to separate the blocks out.
We're not drilling there.
So you can save yourself
one hole per block,
termite specialists,
by going to courses off grade.
Now I just want to throw
a poll question out here.
Does everybody get that,
the difference between
drilling the first row block
and drilling
the second row block?
Okay, looks like
everybody's getting it.
I like it. All right.
Okay, so this is the deal
in hollow blocks.
So again,
it's the cores of the block
that we're treating, we know
termites can build mud tubes up
through those cores of block.
Sometimes we foam
that block as well, okay.
All right, now let me throw
another question out.
Let's look at brick
or stone veneer.
How can termites
enter a structure
with brick or stone veneer?
They've got little jack hammers
or, you know, what do they do?
How do they get in?
Anybody know the answer
to that question?
Okay, weep holes, all right,
that's a possibility.
Okay, void between the veneer
and the block.
All right, thank you, Tyler.
Actually that was Louise
or Luke.
This thing is moving so fast,
I can't read it.
Yeah, we got to get the gap.
All right, we get the gap
that's in between, all right.
And that's kind of exemplified
in this next slide
where you can see here.
Let me put it up for you.
That might help.
There's always
going to be a gap there,
you know, people think
'cause they have a brick veneer
on their house and, inspectors,
you're going to hear this,
and don't laugh at people,
we just tell them,
try to educate them,
that's not really the case.
They go, "Oh, gee,
my house is all brick
and I don't need to worry
about termites."
"Yeah, you do."
That's brick veneer,
that's just for looks.
That does nothing structurally
for that structure.
And you can see
that the gap there,
at number two,
it's a pretty good sized gap
for a termite.
So we have to treat that gap.
Now one of the things
we don't do
is number three there
we do not drill
the cores of the brick.
Okay, we don't do that.
Now what's the treatment spec
for treating brick veneer?
Somebody shoot that into us.
So it's one of those things
that we have to treat.
And if you read
the Termite Expectations manual,
it would tell you
like every brick
and a half, every 12 inches,
standard brick is 8 inches,
like the ones you see.
Okay, very good.
We've got...
Let's see, we've got Steve,
and we've got William,
we've got Peter and Louise.
Tyler, 26.
That's the correct response.
So 26 is the treatment spec.
So we do not treat
the cores of the brick.
Please make a note of that.
We drill into the mortar joint,
we do not drill into the brick,
we're trying to get
the mortar joint.
I'm just kind of curious.
Let me throw this question out.
How many of you
have ever drilled into brick,
try to make a hole in brick?
Let's see what you
come up with on this.
How many of you
ever made a hole in brick?
Not a lot of you
have had that experience.
Should try it.
Lovely.
Okay, I think the five
that said yes can speak to it.
It's not an easy job
even with a hammer drill.
That's why we don't
drill in the brick,
that's why we don't treat
the cores of that brick
as I showed you
here in number three.
We would be
cracking people's brick,
breaking it, they'd be so upset
with us.
It would cost us a fortune.
And also, the treatment process
would take forever.
So one of the things
you want to take a look at is
how does this thing
actually work.
Well, you know, we're drilling
through the mortar,
we're trying to get
that material down
between that gap.
And you see the application rate
has changed now.
Now it's two gallons
per ten linear feet,
or horizontal treatment
or plumbing was one gallon,
so half as much, okay,
per ten square feet,
this is ten linear feet.
So make sure
you get that into the library,
get it down into your head,
and, you know, get that right.
So brick veneer, stone veneer
is always treated like that.
Now there's another option,
and this goes way back
into your older properties.
You know, before hollow block
was invented,
'cause that's been around
for 2,000 years, all right.
You know, we used to use
what we call
double brick foundations,
triple brick foundations,
stone foundations.
And you're still going to run
into houses like this,
especially if you live in cities
where the structures
are pretty old.
So you can see here,
17 is your double brick.
This is where, literally,
the foundation was made
out of two rows of brick.
This is not a brick veneer.
This is the foundation.
Okay, this is pre-hollow block
before hollow block
came on the scene.
Triple brick is 18.
There you have two voids,
'cause you have three courses
of brick going up in.
And your spec 20
is your stone treatment
and stones are like icebergs.
You're trying to drill.
You think you're drilling
into a mortar joint,
all you're doing is
drilling into more stone.
So let me just say this,
inspectors,
I want to have a nice sandwich
or some nice ice cold drink
to take to any
termite specialist
that has to deal
with any of those three
because it is not a walk
in the park,
it is not fun,
and they may remember, okay.
So again,
what's the application rate?
Two gallons per ten linear feet.
And that's pretty much
how that plays.
So we're going to take
a look at a video
on all these
different wall voids
from hollow block
to double brick, triple brick,
you know, brick veneer,
stone veneer, stone foundation,
check it out,
and then I'll ask you
a couple of questions.
Walls that go into the soil
often are hollow.
These hollow places or voids
are excellent entry ways
for termites.
Because of this,
these voids must be
treated with termiticide.
The challenge is recognizing
the location of these voids
and in getting the termiticide
into the voids
after they're located
because walls can be
made of hollow blocks,
bricks, or stone,
we'll look at each individually.
Hollow blocks can be made
with two or three main voids,
plus two or three small voids.
Any of these
can be an entry way,
so all of the voids
must be treated.
Sometimes, you will recognize
the type of blocks
from some that are used
in the area.
Sometimes
you'll have to drill test holes
to find out the type of blocks
and the location of the voids
in the block.
Drill into the mortar joint
using a quarter inch bit.
After finding the number
and location of the voids
in the blocks,
begin drilling
into a mortar joint
that is close to the soil level.
Drill along the mortar joint
into every void
until all the voids have been
opened for treating.
Use the depth gauge
supplied with the drill
to avoid drilling past the void
or into pipes
running through the voids.
After all the voids
have been open,
they will
all need to be treated.
The application will be
two gallons of diluted liquid
per ten liner feet of block.
The application tip is slender
for insertion
into the holes you drilled.
The time each hole is treated
will be determined
by the calibration you did
before starting the job.
After all the voids
have been treated,
the holes will need to be
plugged with mortar.
Many older homes
were constructed
with foundations made of brick.
In most cases, there will be
more than one row of bricks,
so there is a gap
or a void between the rows.
As you enter the crawlspace
under the home,
it will usually be
possible to see
how many rows of bricks
were used
in building the foundation.
Foundations that were built
with two rows of bricks
are called double brick.
These will have one void
between the two rows of bricks.
Foundations with three rows
or triple brick
will have two voids.
Drilling into the void
behind the bricks
is done through a mortar joint.
Select a mortar joint
that is fairly close
to the soil level
and drill every eight inches
using the Protek II
and the depth gauge.
Double brick foundations
can be drilled from the outside,
but triple brick foundations
will have to be drilled
from both sides.
Remember to offset
the inside holes
from the outside holes.
Treating the voids
behind the bricks
requires two gallons
of liquid termiticide
per ten linear feet of wall.
Use the void injection tip
and treat each hole
according to the calculations
you did
when you calibrated
the equipment.
After the holes
have been treated,
patch them with mortar.
A similar treatment
may have to be done
on homes
that have a brick veneer
facing over the foundation wall.
The gap between the brick veneer
and the foundation
would be treated
in the same fashion
as a double brick foundation.
Remember to use the depth gauge
when drilling
so the drill doesn't go past
the bricks into the foundation.
Some homes
will have the foundation
constructed of stones.
There will be voids and gaps
between the stones
that would allow termites
to enter the home.
The voids will need to be
treated with liquid termiticide.
Since the stones usually
are irregular in size and shape,
the voids between the stones
won't be in a nice straight line
for treating.
Try to determine a line
as straight as possible
as close to the soil
as you can make it.
If the mortar between
the stones is still good,
you will need to drill
into the mortar
to get access to the voids
for treating.
Use the quarter inch bit
for this drilling.
Make the holes
about 12 inches apart
or between each stone.
In some states,
it is mandatory to drill
so you can verify
that there is really a void
between the stones.
After you have made
access to the voids,
the treatment will be
two gallons of liquid
for every ten feet of all.
After treating,
patch the holes with mortar.
Sometimes a home
will have unusual voids
that require
a combination of treatments.
In a crawl home,
the void under a fire place
is often such a situation.
There will be a void
under the fire box or hearth
that must be treated
using the foam termiticide
to make a horizontal barrier.
This void can usually
only be reached by drilling
through the mortar joints
of the foundation,
then the foam will be applied
at the rate
of one gallon of termiticide
per ten square feet.
The foundation of the chimney
will often be made of bricks
or hollow blocks.
So these voids will also
have to be treated
using liquid termiticide.
The liquid will be
injected into the voids
at the rate two gallons
per ten linear feet.
Okay, you've got a little taste
of everything on that video.
So you saw the hallow block,
you saw the double brick,
the triple brick, the stone,
the veneers, stone and brick.
So that should
give you the idea,
I don't think we need to say
too much about that.
So let me just ask you
this quick poll question.
How many of you think
you get the void treatment,
two gallons per ten linear feet
per foot of depth?
Learn the treatment specs
to go with each one,
number 9 for the hollow block,
double brick 17,
triple brick 18, stone 20,
stone veneer, brick veneer 26.
People get the stone veneer
and the stone wall voids,
stone foundation mixed up.
Remember,
veneers are decorative,
stone foundation
actually holds up the structure
just like the double brick
and the triple brick.
All right,
how are we doing here?
Let's move onto
our vertical treatment.
And there's a couple of pretty
typical vertical treatments
that we do.
Obviously, when we down drill,
we drill through
an interior/exterior
expansion joint
like a patio or a floating slab
that has an expansion joint
on the inside,
we're vertical drilling, okay.
Trenching and treating is a form
of vertical treatment.
That's kind of the fourth one.
So reality is we have
horizontal treatment,
we have void treatment,
we have vertical treatment.
Those are the three main ways
of delivering a liquid, okay,
trenching and treating is part
of the vertical treatment.
So here we're basically
trying to treat the soil,
you know, around piers
down along foundation walls.
That's what we're trying to do
with that, okay.
And I mean
that's pretty much it.
There's not much else
I can say about that.
Now, but I can ask you
this question.
Okay, how do termites enter
around these areas?
How do they get into these
expansion joints?
How do they get in through that?
What's the story?
Okay,
cracks in the foundation wall.
That's one way.
Very good. Mud tubes.
Hey, there you go. I like it.
Mud tubes, you bet.
What else?
Okay, cracks and crevices.
Yeah, let's just take a look
at a couple of slides here,
all good answers.
Okay, you know, here's a pier,
look at the tubes on that pier,
they come
right above the ground,
they build their tubes
up the pier or up the lawn,
the siding, get up
underneath the siding.
That's why you don't want
the folks piling mulch up
just at that bottom edge
of that siding.
That's not a good thing,
all right.
That's how they're
going to sneak in.
So yeah, I mean, the whole idea
of the vertical treatment
is basically to get that
material down in the soil
so, you know, when termites
do try to come up
along that foundation wall,
they're going to come in contact
with it again.
So we're really trying to create
what I would call
a treatment zone.
So think about this
for a minute,
you know,
you tell your customers,
your prospects,
we're going to dig
a six inch wide trench
that's six inches deep right up
against the foundation wall.
Then we're going to put
material in that,
and that is going to soak down
along there
till it gets
to the top of the footing.
Now in some cases,
we can't get to the top
of the footing that way,
we then have to rod down a foot,
put more material,
rod down another foot
with four feet
being the maximum, okay.
But the whole idea is to protect
along the foundation wall,
inside or outside,
protect along the pier wall,
you know,
that's what we're trying to do
with this kind of thing,
all right.
And that's really the purpose
of the treatment.
And you can see some of the more
common treatment specs
associated
with vertical treatment,
spec number three.
There he is down
drilling on the interior,
that's like a floating slab.
Number 11, which is the sister
to three, except it's outside,
so if there's a patio,
a walkway coming up.
Spec 12, your trench and treat.
21C, we're down drilling again,
trying to get material
along that foundation wall.
So these are some of the more
common treatments specs
for that type of delivery
of treatment, okay.
So let me do this,
let me show you
a video
of the vertical treatment
and then we'll come back
and take a look
at a couple of the key points.
So let's go ahead
and check this out.
The second application rate
we looked at
is a vertical barrier
applied against the side
of a vertical surface.
The termiticide is applied
using four gallons
of diluted termiticide
for every ten linear feet
to be treated.
There could be
several places around a home
that this rate would be used
during a termite treatment.
In some situations,
we would use liquid only,
sometimes liquid
and foam together,
and sometimes foam only.
We will look
at liquid applications.
Floating slab homes
are constructed
with an expansion joint
around the inside perimeter.
This joint is an entryway
for termites
that must be treated.
Often, the treatment must be
done from outside the home.
This treatment will apply
the barrier from the side.
But it will still be
a vertical barrier
against the foundation wall
under the slab.
This treatment is called
short rodding.
Doing this treatment
properly requires several steps.
First, check to be sure
there is only one level of floor
in the home.
Second, find the location
for the termiticide application
under the slab.
Inside, measure
from a window sill to the floor.
Outside, measure
from the same window sill
and mark the distance.
Add four to six inches
for the thickness of the slab.
This will be the place to drill.
Check the measurements
at several places
around the home before drilling.
Mark a chalk line to keep
yourself straight as you go.
Drill every eight inches
using the Protek II
and the depth gauge.
Apply liquid termiticide
at the rate of four gallons
for every ten feet
of drill holes.
The liquid barrier
will also need to be applied
in areas like
the exterior of the home
where the patio or sidewalk
meets the house
or at the joint
between driveway and garage.
This type of application
will require drilling holes
through concrete
using the hammer drill
with the Protek II
and the depth gauge.
The holes must be spaced
12 inches apart
to ensure the barrier
is continuous.
For appearance,
be sure to make a chalk line
before drilling.
The liquid termiticide
will be applied
at the rate of four gallons
for every
ten linear feet of holes.
If the holes will not accept
the proper
amount of termiticide,
you will have to make
more than one application.
If your calibration
showed the treating time
to be ten seconds
per drill hole,
every hole must receive
ten seconds
of diluted termiticide.
Okay, now you saw on that one,
you know, pretty much
we're going down
along the foundation wall.
Now one thing
I want to point out to you is
we never treat
with the treating tool
beyond the top of the footer.
But if the material
is in the ground
and just kind of
seeps its way down
and runs off
the edge of the footer,
that's okay.
What we don't want to do is
get that treating tool
below the top of the footer,
'cause you can blow away
some of the soil
and weaken the structure,
all right.
The footing is what holds up
the whole structure, okay.
So you've got to be
very careful of that,
in no case do
we want to have that happen.
So you want to make sure
you get that right
and not do that.
Okay,
so couple of best practices
you should have picked up
from the video.
Let's take a look at this.
Okay, ground fault interrupter,
always.
Termite specialists,
you never use the draw
without the ground fault
interrupter.
Okay,
shocks are not a good thing.
We don't want shocks.
You've got to minimize
that opportunity.
Notice the application rate here
is four gallons
per ten linear feet
but there's a new dimension,
it's called foot of depth.
So in the foundation wall,
we just dumped two gallons
in there every ten linear feet,
and left to go, went down
the top of the footing, great.
Okay, this one, if the footing's
more than a foot underground,
you're gonna have to rod to get
to the next level.
And you can see,
we want to put the drill holes
in nice straight lines
no more than 12 inches apart,
otherwise,
you'll fail
the audit termite specialist,
even if it's 12.25 inches,
no good.
And then we drill about
the width of your foot,
2-6 inches out
from the foundation wall.
And these are details,
inspectors,
that you need to know
so you can tell the folks,
you tell somebody
we need to drill your patio,
they think you're out
in the middle
of the patio drilling,
you know, a winding road,
all right, it's not like that.
Some termite specialists
will snap a chalk line,
they'll use a tape measure
to mark it off
so far off in the wall.
Some build like a jigged out,
like a four foot 2x4
and they'll all the markings
on about every ten inches
where the holes need to go.
Whatever works for you
is what you can do.
That's usually
the best thing to do, right?
So, you know, whatever works
for you works for you.
So you figure out
how you want that to happen
but the last thing
we don't want is
I don't want a row of holes
looking like a dog's hind leg,
you know,
doing the wave, no good.
Premium company,
we don't do work like that.
So we want to make sure
that we don't do it.
Okay, so that's
what we're talking about.
Now what is foot of depth?
Well, I think
we better take a break
before we discuss that.
We'll come back
and take at a look at that.
We'll take ourselves
our last break of the day,
nine minutes.
Go refresh,
run around the building
real quick, get a drink,
nonalcoholic of course.
And I'll see you back here
in the nine minutes.
All right, welcome back.
I want to talk a little bit more
about the concept
of foot of depth.
Now the definition
of foot of depth
and you might want to jot
this down on page 15
is the distance from the grade
to the top of the footing,
all right.
Now what that means
is making it simple,
okay, what that means is this.
It might be a foot
from the top of the grade,
down to the footing,
if you live in Florida,
maybe 18 inches, all right.
You live in Minneapolis,
it might be four feet,
all right.
So the depth of footing,
you have to cover
that whole wall that's there.
You have to get that material
down along the whole wall
with your liquid treatment.
So if the top of that footing
is four feet down,
digging and trenching, sticking,
you know, some material
in there is not going to get it
to where it needs to go.
It's not going to absorb down
far enough.
So we have to do
what's call rodding.
So we trench and treat,
we put a gallon in,
and we rod down, we put another,
you know, whatever
you're putting in each hole,
two tenths of gallon,
four tenths of a gallon.
Then we rod down another foot,
we go another
four tenths of a gallon,
down another foot
until we think we've hit
the top of the footing.
Okay, four feet is about as deep
as you can go.
And that's
what we're talking about
when we talk about
depth of footer.
Now tomorrow,
in one of our modules tomorrow,
you'll get a better view of that
where it's actually calibrated
because we're going to talk
about volume calculation,
how do you determine
how much material
do you need to do a job.
So we will revisit that then,
so just kind of keep
that concept in your head
right now of depth of footer.
Your vertical treatment
is the only type of treatment
that's impacted
by depth of footer, all right.
Now again,
there's a couple of things
to keep in mind with that,
okay, number one is, you know,
if the footing
is more than four feet,
you're not going to get it.
You know, four feet is about it.
You're not going to get it
much further than that.
And you've got to use
the rodding equipment.
So, termite specialists,
if you're not current on
what rodding equipment is,
you want to try to get current
because one of the things
you've got to make sure
that you never do,
never ever, ever, ever, ever,
never, never, never do
is treat beyond
the top of the footing.
That is just no good.
That's when we can start getting
into some trouble, all right.
We don't want to do that.
Now one of the other things
with rodding,
okay, and trying to treat soil
all that way
is the soil type has a lot to do
with what goes on there,
all right.
So let's take a look here.
I'm sure you have a little table
in your workbook.
It looks like this on page 16.
You can see in sandy soils
what happens is the material
is sucked right up, all right.
Think about being at the beach,
and what happens
if you spill your drink?
Okay, well,
if you spill your drink,
it gets sucked
right into the sand,
you have no hope of getting
any of it back, all right.
If you have tightly compacted
soil like clay soil,
okay, that's not an issue,
it lays on the top.
So what you have to do there is
you have to put
your rod insertions
a little bit further apart.
So in sandy soils,
if I'm supposed to put,
you know, four gallons
per ten linear feet per foot of depth
and I have a hole or I trench it out
and I put four-tenths of a gallon
here and there,
rod down and put another four-tenths,
I got to put my rod insertions
pretty close.
It's going to be sucked right in,
which means it's not going to spread.
Okay, on the other side,
the compacted soil,
it's going to tend to spread
and cover more ground,
you know, horizontally.
And you can see it's prone
to float on the top of the surface
before it actually percolates
into the ground.
And percolate is nothing more
than a fancy word for absorbs
into the ground, okay.
So that's the whole concept.
So we'll just touch upon it here,
but then again,
we'll look at it again tomorrow.
And I think it might make
a little bit more sense then for you.
Okay, now treatment specs,
let's take a look at a couple of
treatments specs
associated with vertical treatment.
Okay, three, you're down
drilling your expansion joints.
Remember, what's the purpose of a three,
I'm trying to get the material down
along that foundation walls of termites,
try to come up
through that expansion joint,
they got to come in contact with it.
Okay, five is really
a horizontal treatment,
not quite sure why it's up there.
Let's see here.
Oh, this is a quiz question.
Okay, let's try that
and use your tablets
and answer the question.
Guess I blew that one, didn't I?
Got distracted.
So we're gonna do
a couple of quiz questions,
see how much sticks.
Everybody votes.
Guys, check this one out
and see what we have.
Okay, not bad, not bad, not bad, okay.
Okay, you can see here
that obviously for vertical treating,
you had the A and D,
they're both treating
along the foundation wall.
Let's try another one.
Okay, drill holes should be
no more than how many inches apart?
Drill holes should be no more than
how many inches apart?
Just remember, you fail the audit
if you get them too far apart.
Let's check this one out.
And these are in your workbook,
so if you didn't figure it out,
you can write these down.
Okay, looks like almost everybody
got this one, okay, very good.
Yeah no more than twelve inches apart,
otherwise you're gonna have
a problem, all right.
Let's try other one.
Okay, which of the following soils
readily accepts liquid?
A, Clay, B, Sandy.
Readily means very easily.
Let's check this one out.
Excellent, everybody got it right.
I like it.
Yeah, I like it, man.
This is a good, good thing.
Yeah, the sandy soil
more readily accepts the liquid.
Okay, now we've got one more
to talk about, that's trenching, okay.
Again, trenching
is a form of vertical treatment.
Couple of things to keep in mind
about trenching,
particularly the termite specialist,
is that, okay,
you're going to use
some kind of Maddox or hoe,
it's going to be
that little six inch wide
by six inch deep trench.
I'm going to be putting
four gallons per ten linear feet,
okay, times the footer depth
or per foot of depth, okay.
And then you always want
to remember that,
remember, we're a premium company,
so we're done with all this treatment
around the exterior/interior
of a structure,
it's like a crawlspace,
we need to put all the soil back
in the trench
that we pulled out of there, no extra.
And then treat that soil, you know,
make sure it's treated well.
And if there's any mulch,
push that back as well.
We want to make sure
we do a neat job with it, okay.
And you want to make sure, inspectors,
you need to explain this process,
you know, you come into my house
and you say,
"Yeah. And then one of things
we're going to have to do, Mr. Prospect,
is we're going to have to dig a trench
around your house."
My eyes are going to get this big
'cause I'm going to think
it's a trench like this wide,
you know, three or four feet deep
like a moat.
I don't want a moat around my house,
so be very, very specific
when explaining to the folks
what you're going to do here, all right.
So you've got to make sure
that you get that right.
You have to be able to...
Don't assume anybody knows anything.
You have to talk to them
like they're six years old
when it comes to the detail
of the cosmetic issues
of what this treatment
may do to the property, all right.
So we're going to make sure
we get that right.
Otherwise, your termite specialist
is going to go there
and they're going to get hammered.
And that's not going to be a good thing.
Okay, they're going to be
very, very upset with you.
Let's take a look at a video
on trenching
and then we're going to take a look
at couple of points from that.
Vertical barriers
will be applied with termiticide
directly into the soil
in several places around the home.
Some of the locations that would need
a vertical liquid barrier
might be against the outside
of the foundation
or under a crawl home
against the inside of the foundation
or around the base of piers.
The application in these places
will require digging a trench
against the foundation to be treated.
The trench should not be
more than six inches wide
and it should not be deeper
than the top of the footer.
The trench is to contain
the termiticide.
So it doesn't run off
from the application area.
After the trench has been made,
the termiticide is applied.
It should be applied to the trench
and to the back fill that
is replaced in the trench.
The depth of the soil
from the surface to the footer
will determine
how the application is done.
There are several ways
to find the depth to the footer,
by digging a hole
next to the foundation,
by probing down next to the foundation,
or by measuring inside the house
in a room that is below ground level.
If the footer is shallow,
less than 12 inches,
the trench will usually be treated
by liquid termiticide
flowing from the end
of the treating tool.
The application will require
four gallons of liquid
for every ten linear feet of trench.
The amount of time
you will treat a ten foot trench
will be determined
by calibrating the equipment.
The soil that was removed
from the trench
will have to be treated
while the trench is being treated.
By treating the backfill,
we eliminate an untreated bridge
over the barrier.
If the distance from the soil surface
to the footer is deeper than a foot,
the termiticide will have to be applied
by adding a pointed rodding tool
to the end of the treating tool.
The application rate of four gallons
per ten linear feet of trench
will be multiplied
by the number of feet to the footer.
A footer that is two feet
below the soil surface
would require eight gallons
per ten linear feet.
Trench and rod outside foundation walls
to a minimum of four feet
or to the top of the footer.
The rod is pushed into the soil
next to the foundation
and the termiticide is released
as the rod is pushed down to the footer.
The termiticide is also released
as the rod is withdrawn to the surface.
Then the rod is moved over, reinserted,
and the treatment is repeated.
The distance the rod is moved
between insertions
would depend on the type of soil.
Sandy soils will accept liquid readily,
while soils that contain more clay
will not accept liquid as easily.
The barrier must be continuous.
So there cannot be gaps
between rod treatments.
The distance between rod insertions
will have to be determined
at the jobsite.
When trenching and treating,
always check for French drains,
and if present, only treat the soil
above the drain
using caution to ensure that emulsion
is not introduced into the drain.
Also, remember not to treat
when rain is imminent
or when soil is wet.
Okay, now I see some chats here.
People didn't see the video.
So let me just do a poll here
and if you saw the video, just hit yes,
if you didn't see the video, hit no.
That way we can get an idea
of how many this has impacted.
Well, Aubrey, looks like quite a few.
Not quite sure what that's all about.
Well, why don't we move on
'cause we'll be covering
some of this again tomorrow?
Because I want to get
to the case study.
So we're going to move on.
I'm sorry that some of you
didn't get to see the video.
We'll have some more footage tomorrow.
I'm not sure why we're getting
these technical problems.
But let's do a couple of
quick review questions here.
So just use your tablet,
what are some areas you can trench?
A, B, C, all of the above,
some of the above, none of the above?
Let's check this one out
'cause I realize
some of you didn't get to see it.
Okay, you did pretty good
for not seeing.
I like it.
Okay, everybody got it right.
I like that one.
Let's try another one here
because you've got all the areas right.
Let's try this one.
So your trenches should be
how many inches wide
and how many inches deep?
And this is an important one
so let's make sure
we get this one right.
Check it out.
All right, very good.
Almost everybody,
just I think one or two folks there.
Yeah, it's six inches wide
and six inches deep.
So just remember six and six
and we should be good.
All right, I want to get
into some practical scenarios here.
Some of these are not really scenarios,
they're just you have to figure out
the treatments spec
that goes with the type
of treatment that's here.
So for example on this one,
if we're doing a horizontal treatment,
okay, which of these treatments specs
reflect horizontal treatment?
Remember I said,
before we even started this module,
do you know your treatment specs.
This is why.
So if you've got a treatment spec sheet,
get your iPad out,
you know, whatever it takes
to look these up,
but, you know, horizontal,
first thing you have to ask yourself
is what does he mean by horizontal,
is that your plumbing penetrations.
So let's go ahead and see
what you come up with.
Yeah, this one is going
a little slow, isn't it?
Let's take a look at this one.
Okay, let's actually look
at what the deal is here, all right.
Okay, it said
which of these is horizontal?
Well, five, horizontal
is treating your plumbing,
like I said before.
So five's a plumbing,
six is a plumbing,
number eight is the alternative.
Somebody says, no,
you're not drilling through my floor,
forget that.
And same with E,
E is a long rod versus a short rod,
and then G is for your crawl space,
trenching and treating
around soil pipes.
Let's try another one.
Now this is a little bit different,
okay, it says you're treating
a floating slab.
The graph has
a specification number on it,
requiring you to treat
the bath tub plumbing.
What's the spec number?
How do we perform the treatment?
How does the treatment work?
Let's get the spec number,
and because our time is always tight,
we'll take a look
at the other two parts together.
So what's the spec number
according to this scenario?
Somebody chat that in.
Okay, we already have an answer here.
We've got...
So like Darrell says,
it's number five.
As does William, as does Paul,
as does Tyler, as does Evan...
As does our unknown user.
So let's take a look,
I think you'll find that it is five.
Now one of the things inspectors
you have to better explain to the folks
is how we're going to do this?
You can't just say,
"Hey, we're going to cut a hole
in your wall."
That's not go over real well, right?
So one of things we have to do
is we have to install bath trap access.
So when you're doing your inspections,
if you see no access,
that's the first conversation
you are going to have to have.
So we're going to install
bath trap door,
we're going to drill down
through the floor
and get the material
underneath the slab.
They don't need to know
what the rate is, okay,
'cause that's not going to,
you know, really,
that's just going to create
more questions.
"Well, how come you're only using
one gallon per ten square feet
when my wall voyager's
using two gallons for ten linear feet?"
You know, and they're going to get
all wrapped around the axle on this one,
so just skip that part, all right.
And then, you know, tell them
we're trying to get the material
around the pipes underneath,
okay, for that reason.
So that's the whole deal
with the scenario.
We're installing the bath trap
so we can treat the plumbing,
so we can treat the plumbing.
Now how does it kill the termites?
Somebody chat the answer into that.
I gave it to you earlier in the module.
I gave it to you earlier in the module.
How does it kill termites?
Okay, the transfer effect.
Yeah, remember, it's a contact sport.
All it has to do is get it on,
it's not like they can go
take a shower
or wash the stuff off, okay.
So very good, our unknown caller
says contact sport as well.
So yeah, it's going to be
the same way for all these.
Termidor is absorbed
through the system, it's ingested,
and that's how it kills them, all right.
They don't die right away.
It takes a few days.
We want to give them time
to transfer it
to their friends and family
because we know their behavior,
it's based on science.
Okay, all right, let's take a look
at another scenario here
and let's see this one.
Okay, it says...
Guess if I put the slide up,
you might be able to...
Oops.
Hold on.
There you go, back one.
Okay, you treat a crawlspace,
and according to the graph,
you need to treat the drain line
that comes out of the property
and into the soil.
What's the treatment spec?
What's the treatment spec?
Okay, Mr. Unknown has it,
as does Joshua, it's 16.
The treatment spec is 16.
This is trench and treat
piers and soil pipes.
If you didn't know that,
so it goes back to this one.
You know, we're going to dig
a 6x6 inch trench around the pipe.
And here you can kind of see
the visual representation of it.
We're going to put one gallon
of Termidor in that trench.
As it absorbs down through,
once it's absorbed,
then we're going to backfill the trench
and treat the soil on top of it.
And that's it. That's the treatment.
So there's no really
any huge cosmetic issues here
that anybody should get
all worked up over.
But, you know, you just never know.
All right, let's try another one.
Okay, this one says
which are void treatment specs?
All right.
Okay, voids, your foundation walls,
your veneers.
So let's go ahead
and answer that one a while.
Let's start out...
Well, just make all your...
It's a little bit different,
so just make your tablet choices.
Ooh, this looks like a hard one,
not getting a lot of action.
Yeah, looks like
we're struggling on this one.
We are struggling big time.
Let's take a look at this one
'cause it looks like a lot of you
are having difficulty, all right...
Although the bar graph
doesn't show that.
Interesting.
Let's take a look at these.
Okay, void treatments, again,
are your foundation walls, okay,
or your veneers, so we've gotten 9.
well, we know
we treat hollow block with 9,
17 is your double brick,
18 is your triple brick,
20 is your stone foundation,
22 is your chimneys,
your masonry chimneys,
and 26 is your brick or stone veneer.
Six is a horizontal treatment
for plumbing as is eight.
Twelve is a vertical treatment
and sixteen is a horizontal treatment...
And ten is a horizontal treatment.
So this one's a little bit
more challenging.
Let's go back to a scenario, okay.
See if we can do a little bit
better on this.
Okay, this one says you're treating
a partially supported slab
with a hollow block foundation wall.
You are to treat
inside the foundation wall
where the infestation is located.
So what's the treatment spec...
if I have to treat
in the foundation wall?
Okay, looks like we've got number nine.
Number nine, number nine, number nine.
We've got a number three, too.
But I think you'll find
it's number nine.
Remember,
it's a hollow block foundation wall.
I got 26 here, too, that's brick veneer.
Let's take a look at this one.
Okay, here you see I'm drilling
the hollow block foundation wall,
so specification number nine
is the correct response.
Again, remember,
you can't drill any higher
than two courses a block
or eighteen inches
and were drilling
into the mortar joints,
not the block itself.
So the material drops into the voids.
And the application rate
is two gallons per ten linear feet,
which you are not going to share
with the prospect
'cause they don't need to know that.
And the whole idea is the termiticide
gets in the block void
and runs down to the top of the footing.
Sometimes we foam these as well.
It depends.
Okay, let's go to our next one.
But before we go to the next one,
I want to just ask this question,
how many of you are starting
to get the idea on
how you have to think on these?
Yeah, Tim, I'm getting it. No, I'm not.
Yep. I am. I am.
Okay, everybody but one.
All right, let's take a look
at the next one.
This one says
you are treating an infestation
in an exterior wall of a floating slab
with brick veneer.
What's the spec number?
Now this is a little bit of
a tricky one.
You're treating an infestation
in an exterior wall
of a floating slab with brick veneer.
Okay, I got a number 26 is here.
Let's go check this out.
Now this is a little bit of a tricky one
'cause it could be two answers,
depending on how you interpret this,
all right.
Now according to this scenario, it's 26.
But remember again the scenario,
if you really listen to the scenario,
it says that you have an infestation
in an exterior wall.
That's the foundation wall, right,
of a floating slab with brick veneer
where you'd have to treat
the foundation wall as well.
So if it was hollow block,
you'd do a nine,
then you'd also have to treat
the brick veneer,
which would be a 26.
But it's just a little bit
of a tricky question.
So...
I thought I'd settle that with you.
So looks like most of you
have selected 26.
And as you can see here,
that's what it is.
Okay, again, we're going to drill
into the mortar joint,
not the brick itself...
Two gallons per ten linear feet,
no foot of depth.
And the whole idea is to get it
in the void there.
Now one of things
you're going to find on
treatment plans on Thursday is
if I had an infestation
in that foundation wall,
I'd have to trench on the outside,
which is a 12.
I'd have to do the brick veneer,
which is 26,
I'd have to treat the hollow block,
which is nine.
I'd have to trench
and treat the interior
of the foundation as well,
which is a 12.
So I have 12, 26, 9, and 12,
'cause one of things
you have to keep in mind
is every time you have
a termite infestation,
you have to treat
every conceivable entry way
that termites come in.
But we'll talk more about that
on Thursday.
All right, let's try this next one.
Okay,
which are vertical treatment specs?
Okay, vertical treatment,
now get your...
Think about
what do you mean vertical treatment.
Page 24.
Yeah, looks like we're struggling
a little bit on this one, too.
Just a bit.
Let's check this one. We are not...
Okay, you know,
not as good as we would like,
but, you know,
let's take a look
at this vertical treatment,
treating along the foundation walls,
okay,
you down drill
an interior expansion joint with three.
Number eight is the alternative
to three,
if somebody will not let you drill
through their tile
or cut their vinyl
or pull their carpet back.
F, 11, is the opposite of 3,
it's outside, they're sisters.
So 3 and 11 are the same thing,
one's inside, one's outside.
You're trenching and treating
is a vertical treatment.
You're treating a dirt filled porch,
21C is a vertical treatment,
'cause you're trying to get the material
down along the foundation wall.
All right, well, let's go
and try another scenario.
Okay, you're treating a home
with a crawlspace.
There's a concrete patio
that needs to be drilled.
What's the spec?
Crawlspace with a patio out back.
Oh, interesting, 19.
I don't think
there is a treatment spec 19.
Okay, we've got number 11,
we've got 21C, 21D.
We've got all kinds of options here.
Okay, number 11 showed up again,
21C showed up again.
All right,
let's take a look at this one...
'Cause I think you...
I want to make sure you understand
why it is what it is?
So this one, the correct response
is specification number 11.
Okay, it said there's a patio,
okay, remember,
the patio butts up
against the foundation.
So that creates an expansion joint
when you have two pieces of concrete
coming together.
So this is going to be
a number of 11, okay.
It's not a dirt filled porch,
it's a patio.
So I'm going to drill those holes
12 inches apart,
not more than 12 inches,
2-6 inches out or the width the my foot,
going to do four gallons
per ten linear feet per foot of depth
from the top of the soil
to the top of the footing.
Now again, termite specialists,
you have to find the top of the footing.
It may be a different depth
on each side of that structure.
Oh, and by the way,
how do the termites die?
Somebody chat that in again.
How do those termites die?
Are they overcome with grief?
No, it's a contact sport.
Excellent, I like it.
Okay, they share it.
They get it in their bodies,
it's a contact sport.
So very good.
Let's go to our next scenario.
Okay, this one says you're treating
a floating slab with an infestation
on an exterior wall.
You need to drill
the concrete slab on the inside.
So what's the spec going to be?
This is another one
that could be a little tricky.
But not for this group.
You've got it figured out.
The three's come rolling in.
Let's take a look at this one.
Okay, yeah.
This is one of those where you have
to drill that expansion joint
'cause that's pretty much
how they're getting in
unless they came up
through the hollow block,
which is also a possibility.
But again,
we have to pull the carpet back,
we have to cut through vinyl,
get those little pieces up,
drill the holes,
do the treatment down through there,
rod down to the top of the footing.
They don't need to know,
four gallons per ten linear feet
per foot of depth,
you'll blow them away with that.
Top of their heads will blow off.
And that's pretty much it.
Contact sport again.
Try to get the material
along that foundation wall,
the top of the footing.
So if termites
come into contact with it,
they're going to have to touch it.
And that's the kiss of death, literally.
Now just a reminder, technicians,
when you drill through concrete floors,
okay, we do not use corks,
we use super plugs,
or we use triple seal plugs.
Never put cork in there,
it's a cellulose material.
So if you happen find a bag of corks
laying around your branch somewhere,
don't use them.
All right, well, let's try another one.
Yeah, I got an endless supply for you.
Okay, you are treating a property
that is a basement/crawl combination.
You must treat along the outside
of the foundation wall
around the entire property
in areas with soil.
What's the treatment spec number?
Man, you guys ought to eat this one up.
This is the easiest one you've had.
What was that all about?
Is that the request you had for me?
Okay, let's see what we've got here.
Well, I'm seeing a lot of 12s here.
Now before I give you the answer,
our unknown caller,
who's chatting in with the spec,
who says that there...
What is it, Aubrey?
Their chat function doesn't...
Say it doesn't work, so you're calling,
you are putting your answers in
through a request like this.
You need to chat in your name,
your branch location number.
And if you're on a tempo tablet
or a computer
so that they can figure out
why your chat doesn't work, all right.
So, Mr. Unknown,
that's what I need you to do, okay.
So using the same function,
okay, name, branch number,
location where you're viewing from,
are you on a computer
or are you on a tablet.
If you would do that,
that would be most helpful
in resolving your problem.
Now we said 12 was the correct response.
Let us check this out
and see if that's in fact true.
Oh, man, I can't fool these guys,
Aubrey, they're too much.
Yeah, we're trenching
and treating, okay,
six inch wide, six inch deep trench.
Remember, you got to treat the backfill
before you put it back in there.
We're trying to get down
to the top of the footer
so we got to trench deep enough.
And if we can't get deep enough
to get to the top of the footer,
then we're going to rod it
and that might be a little tough
inside a crawlspace.
But we have to try, do our best
that we get that material down
to the top of the footing.
So that was excellente.
Everybody got that one right.
I like it.
Okay, looks like...
That's all the scenarios I have for you.
I know it's probably
breaking your heart
not to have a couple more.
I hope you get the idea now,
liquid treatment, you know,
just doing the Termidor treatment,
we can do it horizontally,
which is to treat the plumbing,
we can do voids, which is to treat
the foundation wall voids
or the veneers,
brick and stone veneer, okay,
we can do vertical treatment,
which is down drilling
through patios,
through expansion joints,
and we're trying to get
the material down
along the foundation wall
inside or outside as well as in piers.
And then trenching is another form
of vertical drilling, okay.
And that's pretty much how that plays.
Now you've got
a little action plan thing
in the back of your book
and there are some...
What you need to do is you need
to start studying
the Termite Expectations manual.
I'm going to ask you tomorrow
how many of you did that.
I'm going to ask you again on Thursday.
So let's start trying to knock out
a couple of these every night
or every day
before you come here, all right.
Inspectors, you want to know
why we do what we do, okay.
Technicians, you have to know
how to implement those treatment specs.
What's the process?
And the Termite Expectations manual
tells you that.
It gives you drawings, it shows you,
it explains for you what that is.
So again, we're a premium company,
people expect a premium treatment.
We don't want guys out there
like scratching their heads like,
what do I do now?
So, you know, take it seriously.
If this is your profession,
then you want to be very good at it,
if you want to work in the major leagues
of pest control, which is what Orkin is.
Okay, any questions before I let you go.
Let me just put out a survey
while I'm waiting for any questions.
How many of you think
this was helpful to you in understanding
how we do liquid treatment,
particularly
on the termite specialist side
since you have to do it, okay?
The format with the scenarios,
was that helpful,
trying to get the point
where you have to actually apply it?
Okay, it looks like
quite a few people felt
this was a pretty good way to go.
'Cause remember, we're trying
to get this to stick for you
so you don't end up, you know,
making some mistakes out in the field
rather we make them here
and do it that way.
Okay, Aubrey, here's the information
you were looking for.
Harrison, Virginia, he's on a computer.
Said their tablets are down
'cause the tempo boxes broke down.
So that might explain some of that.
Okay, Mr. Unknown,
thank you for the information,
try to get you fixed up here now.
Aubrey's got
a little bit more information
that would be helpful.
Just a reminder, tomorrow,
I will be starting again at 12 o'clock
and we have two modules tomorrow.
Both those modules are going to be
geared to the termite specialist.
Inspectors, it doesn't mean
that you shouldn't show up
'cause you need to know
what they're doing.
We're going to first be talking
about volume calculation.
Everybody bring a computer,
bring a phone with a computer,
bring an iPad,
you know, with some kind of
calculator on it
because we're going to be doing
some math with that module, okay.
And that will be 12:00 to 2:00,
and then we're going to start
back up at 2:30 and do mixing in foam,
which is another technology
that we use that
our termite specialists need to know,
why we use it, how we use it,
how we actually mix this stuff
before you go practice it.
So that'll be our schedule for tomorrow.
So make sure you bring
some kind of calculator
so you can do the math.
And looks like
I don't have any questions,
so it looks like
it's time to let you all go.
So I will do that.
Everybody have a good evening.
Let's learn a couple
of those treatments spec tonight
and we'll see how you do tomorrow.
So everybody have a good evening.
I'll see you tomorrow at noon.