tiling part 3 for sub online 20 Aug 2015 960 x 540

>> Just measure that up right, mark it off. The first cut was just squaring the length of rough timber up. I'm using sawn timber. It's cheaper than plain. Use a Studhawk saw guide. It's so quick when you're doing carcassing. You don't have to scratch on the new lines. There's a shot from the other side. See how the principle works? So simple. Everybody can now cut straight. Just to show you the off cut from the box again and what the construction of the tile backer board is. It's got polystyrene in the middle that's really hard and doesn't compress, and it's got two layers of fiberglass and cement coating on each side. That's what we fix tiles to. It's rot proof. And if water can't get in there, can't germinate the striations of the ply. Now because of this tile backer and because we only have two by one lying around we're going to have to thicken this frame out a bit to take what we call wedi washers so that we'll have enough space because these are quite big washers that we fix the cement board to the framework with. They're putting another few bits of that in, all strengthens your bath panel, strengthens the frame that the bath sits on and remember, don't go through both pieces of timber because of those elements. So choose screws that are exactly the right length. Now we glue up the blocks for the bath and that's so that they don't move over time. The feet are easy, just a little twist into place. And then there are two lock nuts that you tighten. Screw that one up. You can't see it quite. It's out of view. But there are two nuts there. You just pinch those together like so. And that's your bath feet as well as your frame supporting the bath. Now to the cut out for the access panel. That's the one piece of wedi board, and that's the center of the tile back and the bottom of the tile. The grout joint, if you like, is that bottom tile for this access panel. That's how big it's going to be. And now we're going to cut the wedi board. Cut it out in one piece, but keep it exactly that piece because that's' the piece that fits. It's very easy, easier than cutting glass before that we saw. Just go very gently. And there we are. Keep your piece the right way. Take them both back in. And get your wedi washers and your screws and straight through to that framework. You want to just indent wedi washers into the cement board and sort of slight dish pulling in so that they're not protruding or showing beyond the face of the cement board. So they do pinch in to the cement board, and that's how you want to fix them. Screw your washers up until they pinch in. Rub your thumb across your field, nicely dished in and they won't obstruct your tiling or push it out. Keep that there for the access panel. Don't let it get lost. As you can see, plenty of space. Plenty of washers, plenty of rigidity in that panel, ready for tiling. So don't let it get lost. Remember, put it where it goes. Now we've tiled it, and this is the access panel. We tiled away from the edges of the join so we didn't get any adhesive in there. We're locking the access panel in place. And this is how it comes out. Now the tile is set to the same level. So we tiled it, put the spacers in, but just trailed away from the adhesive line. And we don't grout this line. What we do is we fill it with silicone, and the silicone matches the grout. And then we cut through with a utility knife like so and the access panel falls out if ever required. Here we had a problem, a lintel in the room that was too thick and being cast into too badly. The plaster came off the walls, and it still protruded into the room. So we made a feature out of it with a keystone. Rather than try and disguise it on a different level, the client chose to make it a feature. This nail in the middle was quite important. It was there to support the tiles whilst they set overnight on the edge, and the metal edge supported them. Put the nail in the two edges of the other uprights. There you can see made a nice feature. Now to the grouting. We'll mix the grout, tiny bit of water interest he bottom of the bucket and you do not want to mix the whole bag all at once. You want to mix about a third. So same as mixing tile adhesive. We mix it until there's not much shine on it. It's going slightly dull, slightly sort of matte if you'd like, but it's hanging on the trowel. Test our grout float. This sis grout float for grouting. And it's hanging on the trowel as you can see there. So we know it's not going to be all over the floor. Watch while picking it up out of the bucket and putting it in the joints. Now we're ready to start grouting. So pick a bit up on the grout float out of the bucket and you want to be squeezing it into the joints one way and wiping off the other, so squashing it down in tight, wiping off the opposite direction. See how the trowel picked the next bit up? I'll put it in over here. Take all the excess off with the rubber edges of your grout float. Continue on the same wall until you've completed the wall. So not grout these corners because they're for silicone. So go tight up to the full depth, but not into that corner. Get it out of there. Those little horizontals there, we'll need to grout those, between the tile and the edge, we'll need to grout all the way down there but not in the corner. Cross all joints. Those metal edges, pick those up. I know that I've got that dribble on the face of my grout float and so I've applied bits all down there. I'm going to run down again and pick them up so it's not all over the floor. I was getting too much on the float. Make sure you fill all the gaps between the edges and the tiles, grout into full depth. Watch out for pin holes like that. Go around and have a check. Grout does not stick to grout so this has to go in all in one application and beautifully cleaned off. Keep checking the joints. Any bulges like that, there will be air pockets behind. So go over them again. around every edge, into those joints. A little tip, when your fan's dangling out of its position, put a plastic back around it. Saves you get electrocuted. Take the towel rail off the wall. It's easier than trying to grout behind it. Now I'm sponging up. First sponge up, go over the center of big tiles. Don't touch the joints. Try to give those one wipe over. We don't want to overwater the joints. It will lead to pinholes in your grout if you overwater in the sponging off. So the first sponge up is like so. You want a proper tiling sponge, and every tiler I know or have ever known really that's a professional tiler uses ain Ardex sponge because it's a proper sponge and it doesn't scoop the grout out of the joints which household sponges do. So get yourself a proper tiling sponge. Top tip. We need a second sponging off because the first sponge up left this while film all over after it's dried for about 15 minutes. If we don't get it off the same day, you won't tomorrow. So top tip, four faces to the sponge, we're going to each face once. Wipe, lift off, turn the sponge, wipe, and lift off. You'll see the dramatic difference because you're not spreading much around. So wipe across, lift off, turn the face the sponge, sponge on, across, off again. And we've got the two edges of the sponge. Don't forget those. Nice even pressure across, lift off, and the final face, All tillers clean this film off this way, so it's a top tip. Use it. Now to fixing the toilet. There are two holes in the backs of most toilets and from the dust you can see— which we'll have to re-route before we put that silicone in fixed with a two-inch ten and these washers. Three washers and the rubber washer in between so that you're note actually putting a permanent stress on the back of the pan which can split it if someone of— let's say— large proportion sits on it. Very important before we do any silicone work is to give it a thorough Hoovering out around all of our edges, every perimeter around all of the bathroom before you start the silicone work and dust it off everywhere, the top edges of the bath, every perimeter and go vertically up with the Hoover if you like. Now to the silicone. Obviously you've got to cut the nozzle and you've got to cut the tube. So cut the tube, utility knife, twist your nozzle, Stops from cutting your hand when cutting it madly. Now always cut this ring off. It gets in the way of the bottom of the gun. Pull your plunger out. Tube in. You can push this back. Now you'll see he point of cutting your ring off your nozzle. Otherwise it wouldn't go under that lip of the cage. And now cut the nozzle. Now we want to overfill. Down here would be a perfect size, but we need to cut it slightly bigger. So we're going to cut it up here and make sure we definitely overfill our joint. Starting in an internal corner and pulling out is correct. Upwards for this silicone joint, horizontal this way for this one. Take your time. Try and be neat. But the point is to make sure that the silicone fills the gap that we've left between the tiles to make it hold in so that it's anchored in there down between the two tiles as the grout would be. Just try and get a nice overfilled run because we're going to tool that up in a second. The second important point about how to do perfect silicone is an atomizer spray bottle. Any one of these washing up liquid bottles will do. And you put about an inch of washing up liquid and then a couple of inches of water on top, give it a shake, and a few mist sprays, but don't saturate it. These are the silicone tools, and they're used to form and dress silicone. We're going to run them on the flatness of the tiles. That's the one I'm going to use. This one's got squarer angled edges. That one's a German one. Wet your silicone tool and your hands with a concentrated washing up liquid spray, go into a corner, and pull out. Then for the vertical, Because your hands are wet and the silicone's wet, you'll be able to mold it like putty and it won't stick to your hands or the tool. That's the reason we use the washing up liquid mix. Use your finger for tiny gentle pressure, for any burrows on the silicone, any smears on faces, and clean off just like that. Another wipe. If you've wiped all the liquid off just a tiny bit more spray. That's the basis of silicone. Now we're going to start on the rest of the room. We're going to start in an internal corner, pulling across. You have to get ambidextrous here and pull out of opposite corners and change hands. Left handed this way. And all of those edges are where cracks could appear with movement in a building. This is why these silicone joints are put in these internal corners, to stop this cracking occurring because the silicone will take the fractional movement or settlement of any new build. So from there, I'm pulling upwards. Having this washing up liquid mix in the bucket so that you can knock the silicone off of your fingers and your tool is invaluable when you're doing this. Pulling out of each internal corner around the head of the bath. It's nice that there are no taps on this bath. It makes the silicone work much easier. Last little bit, connect the two corners. Across here we're going to have a shower screen later. Because we've got the recessed pocket, we've got two vertical silicones in this bathroom to do. So it's going to use quite a few tubes, probably about five or six tubes for the whole room. And pull up, make these two meet. And then we're going to give that a spray, but what I've done is I've pulled a little bit for the two other faces for the brown tile on the top of the bath. I've put silicone in there so that I've got fresh silicone that I'm going to continue from shortly after we've tooled this up. So we've got to get to work quite quickly with our drawing off strokes. And you'll get used to catching blobs of it with the other hand whilst you pull with the tool on these vertical runs. You'll also have to pull out of each face. You'll find you pull one face and leave a smear on the other face. Another quick little spray. And that's where we left off. So I'm not going to talk the whole way, but that's going to be where I'm going to continue. I didn't want to get any washing up liquid in between these joints. Otherwise, the silicone wouldn't get in there. It wouldn't stick. We pulled it out of the corner a little ways. So near completion for this end of the bath and then we can complete the other. Continue all along that brown tile. Another quick spray. We'll tool the rest of that up along there. Two layers of tanking underneath these two layers of silicone and the tile and grout to keep the water out. It is going to get all water from the shower above so you need those four layers of protection just to make sure and make sure and make sure and make sure again. Top edge of the bath, same principle. Run that millimeter crack grout with silicone. Rear edge to the vertical face of the rear wall of the bathroom. Final touch with the finger smooths any burrows out. You'll find it's like a wet plaster seam and you can touch it a tiny bit and push a bit in and leave it to go off for 24 hours. Obviously that's not cleaned up yet. It's a professional way to do silicone. All contractors do it this way. We've all seen bad silicone. I hope you enjoyed that tip. A few areas left to do in the room, the perimeters, around the floor, the bath panel, the edge of the ceiling, to the tile thought the client wants to decorate herself. So we're going to leave that for later. Now putting this WC in. In my opinion it's a good idea to have a few blobs of silicone to stick it to the wall so that when these go off, they act as a cushion for any knocking or falling against this ceramic pan that could crack these holes or screw fixings. And the other reason for this is we can't screw down through the underfloor heating. We're going to have to rely on these two washers and a silicone joint around the bottom of the pan. That's the lid and the plunger works on the syphon for high flush or full flush. Now to the sink. The same silicone. To glue the cabinet to the wall, just nudge this out a little bit. And we'll put a few blobs behind there. Run the nozzle valve down in there, a few squirts of same silicone. to fix our sink cabinet in place. Maybe run up the sides, not too much, but saves you all the drilling and the fixing. This across the cross bar in the back. And this isn't going to move anywhere. That should do it. And then we push our cabinet into place, and the silicon beds it beautifully. Now we're going to put our sink on top so a couple of ribs of silicone, quite a deep you'll see in a second. Along the two joining faces, when the silicone goes off, it's going to glue the sink in place. Run a bead across the top edge of the cabinet all the way around. This is to seat the basin to the cabinet. And then we're going to silicon the joint further. I'll fit the sink in. Glue it in with the silicon. And then we're going to run the perimeter of the sink. Open the door of the underside of the sink to the cabinet, the cabinet to the wall, et cetera. And that's going to make sure that any capillary action water from running down the front face of the sink isn't going to run into the cabinet and start exploding thickness of the carcass. Run these in just the same as your other areas of the bathroom and keep the same nozzle when you're changing tubes. It'll save you a nozzle full every time but always give you the same size fill. When you've got your nozzle right from the beginning, keep it. And this is the same nozzle that I've used all the way through. So here floor to cabinet, front of cabinet to floor, no water going to get in under there. All around tooled up beautifully. The proper way to do professional silicone work. Down the bath panel, around, there's our access panel. I have silicone that at the same time. There's the finished job. From a gritty old bathroom that used to look like this. As you can see, the bath went the other way. We've turned the toilet around. But that's what you can do with a tight bathroom that's 1.4 meters wide. Just for that little shower pocket, turn the bath the other way and the bathroom worked beautifully for everyone. The client was happy ever after.