tiling part 3 for sub online 20 Aug 2015 960 x 540
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>> Just measure that up right,
mark it off.
The first cut was just squaring
the length of rough timber up.
I'm using sawn timber.
It's cheaper than plain.
Use a Studhawk saw guide.
It's so quick when you're
doing carcassing.
You don't have to scratch
on the new lines.
There's a shot from the other side.
See how the principle works?
So simple.
Everybody can now cut straight.
Just to show you the off cut
from the box again
and what the construction
of the tile backer board is.
It's got polystyrene in the middle
that's really hard
and doesn't compress,
and it's got two layers of fiberglass
and cement coating on each side.
That's what we fix tiles to.
It's rot proof.
And if water can't get in there,
can't germinate the striations
of the ply.
Now because of this tile backer
and because we only have
two by one lying around
we're going to have to thicken
this frame out a bit
to take what we call
wedi washers
so that we'll have enough space
because these are quite big washers
that we fix
the cement board
to the framework with.
They're putting another
few bits of that in,
all strengthens your bath panel,
strengthens the frame
that the bath sits on
and remember, don't go
through both pieces of timber
because of those elements.
So choose screws that are exactly
the right length.
Now we glue up the blocks
for the bath
and that's so that they
don't move over time.
The feet are easy,
just a little twist into place.
And then there are two lock nuts
that you tighten.
Screw that one up.
You can't see it quite.
It's out of view.
But there are two nuts there.
You just pinch those together like so.
And that's your bath feet as well as
your frame supporting the bath.
Now to the cut out for the access panel.
That's the one piece of wedi board,
and that's the center of the tile back
and the bottom of the tile.
The grout joint, if you like,
is that bottom tile
for this access panel.
That's how big it's going to be.
And now we're going
to cut the wedi board.
Cut it out in one piece,
but keep it exactly that piece
because that's' the piece that fits.
It's very easy,
easier than cutting glass
before that we saw.
Just go very gently.
And there we are.
Keep your piece the right way.
Take them both back in.
And get your wedi washers
and your screws
and straight through
to that framework.
You want to just indent wedi washers
into the cement board
and sort of slight dish pulling in
so that they're not
protruding or showing
beyond the face
of the cement board.
So they do pinch in
to the cement board,
and that's how you want to fix them.
Screw your washers up
until they pinch in.
Rub your thumb across your field,
nicely dished in
and they won't obstruct your tiling
or push it out.
Keep that there
for the access panel.
Don't let it get lost.
As you can see, plenty of space.
Plenty of washers,
plenty of rigidity in that panel,
ready for tiling.
So don't let it get lost.
Remember, put it where it goes.
Now we've tiled it,
and this is the access panel.
We tiled away from the edges
of the join so we didn't get
any adhesive in there.
We're locking
the access panel in place.
And this is how it comes out.
Now the tile is set to the same level.
So we tiled it, put the spacers in,
but just trailed away
from the adhesive line.
And we don't grout this line.
What we do is we fill it with silicone,
and the silicone matches the grout.
And then we cut through
with a utility knife like so
and the access panel falls out
if ever required.
Here we had a problem,
a lintel in the room
that was too thick
and being cast into too badly.
The plaster came off the walls,
and it still protruded into the room.
So we made a feature out of it
with a keystone.
Rather than try and disguise it
on a different level,
the client chose
to make it a feature.
This nail in the middle
was quite important.
It was there to support
the tiles
whilst they set overnight
on the edge,
and the metal edge supported them.
Put the nail in the two edges
of the other uprights.
There you can see
made a nice feature.
Now to the grouting.
We'll mix the grout, tiny bit of water
interest he bottom of the bucket
and you do not want to mix
the whole bag all at once.
You want to mix about a third.
So same as mixing tile adhesive.
We mix it until there's
not much shine on it.
It's going slightly dull,
slightly sort of matte if you'd like,
but it's hanging on the trowel.
Test our grout float.
This sis grout float for grouting.
And it's hanging on the trowel
as you can see there.
So we know it's not going
to be all over the floor.
Watch while picking it up out of
the bucket and putting it in the joints.
Now we're ready to start grouting.
So pick a bit up on the grout float
out of the bucket
and you want to be squeezing
it into the joints one way
and wiping off the other,
so squashing it down in tight,
wiping off the opposite direction.
See how the trowel
picked the next bit up?
I'll put it in over here.
Take all the excess off
with the rubber edges
of your grout float.
Continue on the same wall
until you've completed the wall.
So not grout these corners
because they're for silicone.
So go tight up to the full depth,
but not into that corner.
Get it out of there.
Those little horizontals there,
we'll need to grout those,
between the tile and the edge,
we'll need to grout
all the way down there
but not in the corner.
Cross all joints.
Those metal edges, pick those up.
I know that I've got that dribble
on the face
of my grout float
and so I've applied bits
all down there.
I'm going to run down again
and pick them up
so it's not all over the floor.
I was getting too much on the float.
Make sure you fill all the gaps
between the edges and the tiles,
grout into full depth.
Watch out for pin holes like that.
Go around and have a check.
Grout does not stick to grout
so this has to go in
all in one application
and beautifully cleaned off.
Keep checking the joints.
Any bulges like that,
there will be air pockets behind.
So go over them again.
around every edge,
into those joints.
A little tip, when your fan's
dangling out of its position,
put a plastic back around it.
Saves you get electrocuted.
Take the towel rail off the wall.
It's easier than trying
to grout behind it.
Now I'm sponging up.
First sponge up,
go over the center of big tiles.
Don't touch the joints.
Try to give those one wipe over.
We don't want to overwater the
joints.
It will lead to pinholes
in your grout
if you overwater in the sponging off.
So the first sponge up is like so.
You want a proper tiling sponge,
and every tiler I know
or have ever known really
that's a professional tiler
uses ain Ardex sponge
because it's a proper sponge
and it doesn't scoop the grout
out of the joints
which household sponges do.
So get yourself a proper tiling sponge.
Top tip.
We need a second sponging off
because the first sponge up
left this while film all over
after it's dried for about 15 minutes.
If we don't get it off the same day,
you won't tomorrow.
So top tip, four faces
to the sponge,
we're going to each face once.
Wipe, lift off,
turn the sponge, wipe,
and lift off.
You'll see the dramatic difference
because you're not
spreading much around.
So wipe across, lift off,
turn the face the sponge,
sponge on, across, off again.
And we've got the two edges
of the sponge.
Don't forget those.
Nice even pressure across,
lift off, and the final face,
All tillers clean this film off this way,
so it's a top tip.
Use it.
Now to fixing the toilet.
There are two holes in the backs
of most toilets
and from the dust you can see—
which we'll have to re-route
before we put that silicone in
fixed with a two-inch ten
and these washers.
Three washers
and the rubber washer in between
so that you're note actually
putting a permanent stress
on the back of the pan
which can split it
if someone of— let's say—
large proportion sits on it.
Very important before we do
any silicone work
is to give it a thorough
Hoovering out
around all of our edges,
every perimeter
around all of the bathroom
before you start
the silicone work
and dust it off everywhere,
the top edges of the bath,
every perimeter
and go vertically up
with the Hoover if you like.
Now to the silicone.
Obviously you've got to cut
the nozzle
and you've got
to cut the tube.
So cut the tube, utility knife,
twist your nozzle,
Stops from cutting your hand
when cutting it madly.
Now always cut this ring off.
It gets in the way
of the bottom of the gun.
Pull your plunger out.
Tube in.
You can push this back.
Now you'll see he point
of cutting your ring off your nozzle.
Otherwise it wouldn't go under
that lip of the cage.
And now cut the nozzle.
Now we want to overfill.
Down here would be a perfect size,
but we need to cut it slightly bigger.
So we're going to cut it up here
and make sure
we definitely overfill our joint.
Starting in an internal corner
and pulling out is correct.
Upwards for this silicone joint,
horizontal this way for this one.
Take your time.
Try and be neat.
But the point is to make sure
that the silicone fills the gap
that we've left between the tiles
to make it hold in
so that it's anchored in there
down between the two tiles
as the grout would be.
Just try and get a nice overfilled run
because we're going to tool that up
in a second.
The second important point
about how to do perfect silicone
is an atomizer spray bottle.
Any one of these washing up
liquid bottles will do.
And you put about an inch
of washing up liquid
and then a couple of inches
of water on top, give it a shake,
and a few mist sprays,
but don't saturate it.
These are the silicone tools,
and they're used to form
and dress silicone.
We're going to run them
on the flatness of the tiles.
That's the one I'm going to use.
This one's got squarer angled edges.
That one's a German one.
Wet your silicone tool
and your hands
with a concentrated
washing up liquid spray,
go into a corner, and pull out.
Then for the vertical,
Because your hands are wet
and the silicone's wet,
you'll be able to mold it like putty
and it won't stick
to your hands or the tool.
That's the reason we use
the washing up liquid mix.
Use your finger
for tiny gentle pressure,
for any burrows on the silicone,
any smears on faces,
and clean off just like that.
Another wipe.
If you've wiped all the liquid off
just a tiny bit more spray.
That's the basis of silicone.
Now we're going to start
on the rest of the room.
We're going to start
in an internal corner,
pulling across.
You have to get ambidextrous here
and pull out of opposite corners
and change hands.
Left handed this way.
And all of those edges
are where cracks could appear
with movement in a building.
This is why these silicone joints
are put in these internal corners,
to stop this cracking occurring
because the silicone
will take the fractional movement
or settlement of any new build.
So from there, I'm pulling upwards.
Having this washing up liquid mix
in the bucket
so that you can knock the silicone
off of your fingers and your tool
is invaluable when you're doing this.
Pulling out of each internal corner
around the head of the bath.
It's nice that there
are no taps on this bath.
It makes the silicone
work much easier.
Last little bit,
connect the two corners.
Across here we're going to have
a shower screen later.
Because we've got
the recessed pocket,
we've got two vertical silicones
in this bathroom to do.
So it's going to use quite
a few tubes,
probably about five
or six tubes for the whole room.
And pull up,
make these two meet.
And then we're going
to give that a spray,
but what I've done
is I've pulled a little bit
for the two other faces for the brown
tile on the top of the bath.
I've put silicone in there
so that I've got fresh silicone
that I'm going to continue from
shortly after we've tooled this up.
So we've got to get
to work quite quickly
with our drawing off strokes.
And you'll get used
to catching blobs of it
with the other hand whilst
you pull with the tool
on these vertical runs.
You'll also have
to pull out of each face.
You'll find you pull one face
and leave a smear
on the other face.
Another quick little spray.
And that's where we left off.
So I'm not going
to talk the whole way,
but that's going to be
where I'm going to continue.
I didn't want to get any washing up
liquid in between these joints.
Otherwise, the silicone
wouldn't get in there.
It wouldn't stick. We pulled it
out of the corner a little ways.
So near completion
for this end of the bath
and then we can
complete the other.
Continue all along
that brown tile.
Another quick spray.
We'll tool the rest of that
up along there.
Two layers of tanking underneath
these two layers of silicone
and the tile and grout
to keep the water out.
It is going to get all water
from the shower above
so you need those four
layers of protection
just to make sure and make sure
and make sure
and make sure again.
Top edge of the bath,
same principle.
Run that millimeter crack grout
with silicone.
Rear edge to the vertical face
of the rear wall of the bathroom.
Final touch with the finger
smooths any burrows out.
You'll find it's like
a wet plaster seam
and you can touch it a tiny bit
and push a bit in
and leave it to go off
for 24 hours.
Obviously that's
not cleaned up yet.
It's a professional way
to do silicone.
All contractors do it this way.
We've all seen bad silicone.
I hope you enjoyed that tip.
A few areas left to do in the room,
the perimeters, around the floor,
the bath panel,
the edge of the ceiling,
to the tile thought the client
wants to decorate herself.
So we're going to leave that
for later.
Now putting this WC in.
In my opinion it's a good idea
to have a few blobs
of silicone
to stick it to the wall
so that when these go off,
they act as a cushion
for any knocking
or falling against this
ceramic pan that could crack
these holes or screw fixings.
And the other reason for this is
we can't screw down through
the underfloor heating.
We're going to have to rely
on these two washers
and a silicone joint
around the bottom of the pan.
That's the lid and the plunger
works on the syphon
for high flush or full flush.
Now to the sink.
The same silicone.
To glue the cabinet to the wall,
just nudge this out a little bit.
And we'll put a few blobs
behind there.
Run the nozzle valve down in there,
a few squirts of same silicone.
to fix our sink cabinet in place.
Maybe run up the sides,
not too much,
but saves you all the drilling
and the fixing.
This across the cross bar
in the back.
And this isn't going
to move anywhere.
That should do it. And then
we push our cabinet into place,
and the silicon beds it beautifully.
Now we're going to put
our sink on top
so a couple of ribs of silicone,
quite a deep you'll see in a second.
Along the two joining faces,
when the silicone goes off,
it's going to glue the sink in place.
Run a bead across
the top edge of the cabinet
all the way around.
This is to seat the basin
to the cabinet.
And then we're going to silicon
the joint further.
I'll fit the sink in.
Glue it in with the silicon.
And then we're going
to run the perimeter of the sink.
Open the door of the underside
of the sink to the cabinet,
the cabinet to the wall, et cetera.
And that's going to make sure
that any capillary action water
from running down
the front face of the sink
isn't going to run into the cabinet
and start exploding thickness
of the carcass.
Run these in just the same
as your other areas of the bathroom
and keep the same nozzle
when you're changing tubes.
It'll save you a nozzle full every time
but always give you
the same size fill.
When you've got your nozzle right
from the beginning, keep it.
And this is the same nozzle
that I've used all the way through.
So here floor to cabinet,
front of cabinet to floor,
no water going
to get in under there.
All around tooled up beautifully.
The proper way to do
professional silicone work.
Down the bath panel, around,
there's our access panel.
I have silicone that at the same time.
There's the finished job.
From a gritty old bathroom
that used to look like
this.
As you can see,
the bath went the other way.
We've turned the toilet around.
But that's what you can do
with a tight bathroom
that's 1.4 meters wide.
Just for that little shower pocket,
turn the bath the other way
and the bathroom
worked beautifully for everyone.
The client was happy
ever after.