Living Salt: The Agehamashiki Salt Fields ・命の塩 里海に生きる伝統ー揚げ浜式塩田

In 1576, against overwhelming odds the villagers of present-day Noto Peninsula defeated the forces of Uesugi Kenshin. While wearing crude masks crafted from bark and seaweed they sounded their taiko drums. Ever since, the people of the Noto Peninsula have been protected and have enjoyed the bounties of the sea which in return, they have preserved. As a result, a rich satoumi environment presently exists. Professor Osamu Matsuda: Just as satoyama refers to a connection to the land the word satoumi references a close, sustainable connection between the sea and people. Even in a global context, Japan’s coastal diversity and productivity have been exceptional. Fishing, especially, has flourished. However, these qualities are currently deteriorating. Although Japan is blessed with a long coast people’s lives have moved away from it. By promoting satoumi, it's important that we once again deepen our relationship with the sea. Salt is one of the sea’s truly wonderful gifts. This song, entitled “Suna tori fushi,” was sung by laborers while hauling sand from the beach to the salt fields. The agehamashiki method of salt production was promoted by Maeda feudal lords in the Edo Period and spread throughout Japan. However, in 1905 the government monopolized the salt industry and only developed regions with efficient production. By 1934, the agehamashiki method had virtually disappeared. Thanks to the efforts Kikutaro Kakuhana and the city of Suzu it has been preserved. His son, Yutaka, the fifth-generation head of Endenmura, has continued the family tradition with his son Hiroshi. Yutaka Kakuhana: I'm not sure why, but my father was completely devoted to making salt. It was his life. He never stopped working. The work is simple, but the details require lots of skill. I think with my body. I adjust to conditions intuitively. Hiroshi Kakuhana: This year is my sixth. I’m still learning and certainly not as skilled as my father. Even after decades I’m not sure it’s possible to master the work. I love showing this old method to visitors. I want to protect it for as long as possible. Yutaka: I will work as long as my body allows. There are no restrictions. It’s a job for any age. Yutaka's father, Kikutaro, once said If you come to Mie, visit my salt farm though it doesn’t suit the times. I want to remain on these fields as long as I’m alive. With assistance from the prefectural and city governments Endenmura was founded as a facility where people can see and actually experience this old method of salt production as well as recall the wisdom and struggles of past generations. Tourists and local students also come to experience this blessing from the sea. Agehamashiki can only be conducted for six months a year between April and September when the weather is fine. March and April are for preparation. Once the sand field is completed, production begins. The day’s labor begins with carrying seawater to the sand field. Seawater is scooped from the jetty rocks from behind the farm and carried to the field. A single haul weighs over 60 kilograms. The water is sprinkled over the field and left to dry by sun and wind. Work is heavily influenced by weather. The fields have the nickname “100-day beach” since there are typically only 100 days of suitable work weather per year. Depending on the weather the amount of water sprayed over the 330-sq meter field is adjusted. Workers gather the dried sand into a box which is topped with more seawater to raise the natural salt concentration from 3% to 15%. By increasing the salt concentration firewood and salt water are used more efficiently. Finally, to make salt crystals this solution is simmered for two days. Ryoichi Toya: The hardest work is the simmering process. It’s difficult even for experienced workers. Controlling the heat and adjusting the salt concentration should be instinctive. The work continues for hours and hours. It’s very tough. Most of the work is done by a single person called the “Beach Master.” The quality and quantity of salt varies based on this person’s skill. Experience and knowledge are crucial. Although there are more logical production methods agehamashiki has been protected for over 500 years due to the locals’ connection to the sea and the Kakuhanas' pride earned from protecting this tradition. Yoshihiro Yokomichi (President of Endenmura): Prior to the birth of the salt industry 500 years ago the Noto Peninsula had no economy or industry. It had no life. My opinion may be extreme, but Noto’s history is based in salt. I want the present generation to understand how previous generations survived off of this gift. When children come here, that’s what I want them to walk away with, and that's what I explain. We must be prouder of our salt. Professor Matsuda: We will continue to live closely with the sea. There are areas entirely dependent upon it so we must use it carefully. There are many rules about resource management and environmental management that we have created for this purpose but we also need to utilize the local wisdom that we’ve accumulated over centuries. Salt fields have decreased in number. We must protect the sea’s environment and protect agehamashiki as the precious satoumi resource that it is.